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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.


UN Spacy

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Hi,

I'm new to this forum so I apologize if my question has already been asked (I haven't read ALL of the past posts).

I've just bought a Yamato 1/60 VF-1J Max and I have one little problem.

The front landing gear doesn't fit back completely in its hole. I goes back only to a certain point where even if I press really hard, it doesn't fit in.

I don't remember having done anything special to get it out in the first place, but I just can't get it fully back in.

Maybe it's really a newbie's problem and there's a very simple technic to put the front landing gear back in place,but I just don't seem to get it. :unsure:

So any help would be welcome. Thanks a lot, folks.

-Tony Stark, aka Iron Man.

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Iron Man aka Tony Stark,

how do i explain this???

you have to slide it back into/towards the tip of the nose cone. meaning, you push down first, then when it reaches the point where it doesn't go down any further, push it in and down towards the tip of the nose cone. does that make sense? hope so. :unsure:

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Whew. We have been blessed.....it's been almost a month and NO one has reported any mishaps with their Yamato's.

KNOCK ON WOOD FOLKS!  :lol:

Well, my 1/48s forgot to wake me up this morning when the alarm clock failed to go off and I was late for work and the boss screamed at me :(

Oh yeah, and those pesky Macross Plus toys keep leaving the toilet seat up, which really annoys my wife .

Damn Yamato and their poor QC :p

Graham

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man,i just transformed my vt-1 superostrich for the 1st time today & that thing was a B#$ch.this is the first time i've transformed 1 of these new 2 seaters w/ that bigger chestplate that everybody was talking about & man,it was alot harder than a standard 1 seater 1/60.the main issue i saw w/ these,is that the metal clip that the chestplate attaches to down in the landing gear well won't slide forward easily w/ the heatshield in place.i found i had to use a mechanics pick tool to pull it up over the rise in the landing gear well to get it to slide into it's final position in battroid mode.i had to take the passenger out of mine too,cause i think misa's helmet was causing the heatshield to ride up too high.i still love this vt-1,but man,i wasn't expecting such a difference in design to the 1 seater 1/60 :huh:

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My 1/60 strike valk just arrived :D but the tail fin back pack section isn't attached to the main body! :unsure:

It doesn't look broken at all, it looks like i just need to undo one screw and clip it back in.

I havn't taken apart a yamato before , is their anything i need to look out for ? Like springs that ping out never to be seen again?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just got my Miria Q-Rau today for only $92 shipped. :) I guess the drawback is that it came with a loose right leg. :( I unscrewed the hip joint and the three screws at the top of the leg, but the leg will not separate. Any suggestions? Also, what would be the best method for getting rid of the loosy leg: cover the ball-joint with masking tape, nail polish (used this for the Banprestos, not to sure if I wanna on a Yamato), or something I haven't heard of yet? Little help here, please.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi! I am brand new to the forums and I have a question concerning Yamato's excellent 1/48 Valkyrie line. I have a 1/48 VF-1J and have found that lately, the right head laser is so loose that it flops regardless of the position I place it in. I would very much like to get this issue corrected and was wondering if you guys wouldn't mind giving me a hand!

-Thanks!

El Malufa

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Hi! I am brand new to the forums and I have a question concerning Yamato's excellent 1/48 Valkyrie line. I have a 1/48 VF-1J and have found that lately, the right head laser is so loose that it flops regardless of the position I place it in. I would very much like to get this issue corrected and was wondering if you guys wouldn't mind giving me a hand!

-Thanks!

El Malufa

Here's my experience with loose lasers. Try turning the loose piece clockwise until it gets tighter. Both 1J lasers were loose on one of mine and this worked for me. However, this will only work if there's enough tension on the back side of the screw within the head. If the screw is too loose and simply continues to spin, you can either disassemble the head and tighten it the old fashioned way, or you can try to shim it until you get the desired tension. I shimmed a loose 1S laser with a small piece of paper and carefully trimmed the excess with an Exacto knife. Hope this helps.

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Hey Alien, I appreciate the advice, but could you please tell me what shimming is and how to do it?

Shims are thin pieces of material used to fill the gaps between two parts. In this case, it will add tension between the laser and the head. You may need to try a few different widths of material until you get the desired effect. See below and don't cut your fingers.

post-4-1096627332_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
I just got my Miria Q-Rau today for only $92 shipped. :) I guess the drawback is that it came with a loose right leg. :( I unscrewed the hip joint and the three screws at the top of the leg, but the leg will not separate. Any suggestions?

It's possible Yamato may have glued the leg together. I don't own a Q-rau, so I can't say for certain. When I was disassembling my 1/55 reissues, I had the exact same problem. I unscrewed the nosecone, but the two-halves wouldn't seperate because they were also glued together. So I just got an exacto blade and gently cut between the two halves. It worked like a charm.

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I just got my Miria Q-Rau today for only $92 shipped. :) I guess the drawback is that it came with a loose right leg. :( I unscrewed the hip joint and the three screws at the top of the leg, but the leg will not separate. Any suggestions?

It's possible Yamato may have glued the leg together. I don't own a Q-rau, so I can't say for certain. When I was disassembling my 1/55 reissues, I had the exact same problem. I unscrewed the nosecone, but the two-halves wouldn't seperate because they were also glued together. So I just got an exacto blade and gently cut between the two halves. It worked like a charm.

Thanks for the tip TheLoneWolf. I think the hexagon thingies might also be keeping the leg together. Am I the only one with a loose leg on his Q-Rau here? :unsure:

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I just got my Miria Q-Rau today for only $92 shipped. :) I guess the drawback is that it came with a loose right leg. :( I unscrewed the hip joint and the three screws at the top of the leg, but the leg will not separate. Any suggestions?

It's possible Yamato may have glued the leg together. I don't own a Q-rau, so I can't say for certain. When I was disassembling my 1/55 reissues, I had the exact same problem. I unscrewed the nosecone, but the two-halves wouldn't seperate because they were also glued together. So I just got an exacto blade and gently cut between the two halves. It worked like a charm.

Thanks for the tip TheLoneWolf. I think the hexagon thingies might also be keeping the leg together.

Hexagonal shaped things? I believe those might be screw covers. If they are indeed screw covers, you can gently pop them off with a flathead. If you could take pictures of them, that'd be awesome :)

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Thanks for the tip TheLoneWolf. I think the hexagon thingies might also be keeping the leg together.

Hexagonal shaped things? I believe those might be screw covers. If they are indeed screw covers, you can gently pop them off with a flathead. If you could take pictures of them, that'd be awesome :)

They were screw covers! TheLoneWolf you are the freshest. My Q-Rau is nice and sturdy now, thanks to you. :D

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey there I just got a 1/55 reissue 1J and the headlasers are really loose, much like El Malufa's problem. Except I think the inside of a 1/55's head is different, they have springs and stuff inside, I believe. So I know I need to take apart the head. First I need to get another small screwdriver because I got mine confiscated at the airport last year.

Anyway, my question is, what does the inside of the head of a 1/55 1J look like, so I know what to work with to fix the problem?

Worst case scenario, I could just try the shimming thing...

Thanks in advance.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

the part on the back (in battroid) on my VF-1 1/48 is kinda floppy...it doesn't really stay well there...and it tends to make the backpack fall down too...is there any way to tighten that area? btw...the floppy part is BP9

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Try pushing the BP9 past the tabs like shown below. They lock it into place so the backpack won't flop around. This is a necessity if you want to use the "neck brace" for added strength when adding the Super/Strike boosters. If the tabs won't hold, I'm not sure what you should do.

post-4-1105258278_thumb.jpg

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Yes, it's made to be done that way. Just don't use excessive pressure and you'll be fine. You may need to twist the BP9 a little bit to get it underneath the tabs, but it'll go. You can see in my pic that mine is a little crooked.

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yep that is the only way to keep it up, when i first got the strike parts for mine i did not realize it until i read a thread like this that stated how to do it. i had mine on the shelf for about a week with the strike parts somewhat hanging of , i could not figure out why it was like that. :p

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I got rubber seppage on my reissue VF-1A Hikaru. It's pretty bad. About a 1 cm strip of rubber has worked its way out.

I'm trying to take the leg apart. Managed to get the lower leg off, now its' a case of trying to split the intake without damaging it. Any tips how to do this? I can't get it apart! This might also help with my VF-1S Max, the left intake is starting to show a stress fracture.

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I got rubber seppage on my reissue VF-1A Hikaru. It's pretty bad. About a 1 cm strip of rubber has worked its way out.

I'm trying to take the leg apart. Managed to get the lower leg off, now its' a case of trying to split the intake without damaging it. Any tips how to do this? I can't get it apart! This might also help with my VF-1S Max, the left intake is starting to show a stress fracture.

Check page 9 of this thread;)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=143&st=160

Edited by Opus
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:lol:

I got rubber seppage on my reissue VF-1A Hikaru. It's pretty bad. About a 1 cm strip of rubber has worked its way out.

I'm trying to take the leg apart. Managed to get the lower leg off, now its' a case of trying to split the intake without damaging it. Any tips how to do this? I can't get it apart! This might also help with my VF-1S Max, the left intake is starting to show a stress fracture.

Check page 9 of this thread;)

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...opic=143&st=160

Thankyou, I skimmed over it half asleep and in despair about my 1/48.

EDIT: Holy Crap!! I will be more gentle with handling it in the future! Smashed my hand into my mate's face next to me..I didn't realise it would be so easy!

Edited by kensei
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  • 5 weeks later...

Hello. As you can see this is a new account, and my first post. I'm a long time reader, so i'm not too much of a newb.

Question: I just received my first 1/48 about 20 minutes ago ( H.I. VF-1J with fstpck). I was curious if it is common for the plastic "hip cap" to break. A small piece of it chipped off the right hip exposing the ball joint.

Any ideas for a fix, or is it even necessary expect for asthetics.

Thanks ahead of time for any help.

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