VALKYRIE-EXCHANGE.COM Posted April 19, 2004 Posted April 19, 2004 1 x Missing instructions/stickers on 1/48 VF1A Hikaru1 x Two right should plates on 1/48 VF1A Hikaru 1 x Two right should plates on 1/48 Super VF1J Max 1 x Missing instructions/stickers on 1/48 VF1A Hikaru Duplicate entry or typo? Great list though! Interesting stuff! Thanks for posting it! H Yep, duplicate...
EXO Posted April 19, 2004 Posted April 19, 2004 Kevin, how does this compare to other manufacturer's you habndle? I.e. Bandai and Toynami. Is this normal as far as QC or do they have a higher percentage?
Blaine23 Posted April 19, 2004 Posted April 19, 2004 Looking at the list, I'd say Yamato wins that dubious horse race, hands down. I'd forgotten how buggy Yamato could be - I've been on a pretty nice streak of "no problem" valks (knock on wood - thunk!). Thanks for posting the list, Kev. It might be a bit scary to some, but it's worth it to remember and raise awareness about Yamato's sometimes problematic QC.
VALKYRIE-EXCHANGE.COM Posted April 19, 2004 Posted April 19, 2004 (edited) Kevin, how does this compare to other manufacturer's you habndle? I.e. Bandai and Toynami. Is this normal as far as QC or do they have a higher percentage? Bandai's Q/C seems to be the best in class. Perhaps, it's the simpler design oft eh chunkey money...! I'd say Yamato and Toynami are close...If I had to average it out, I'd for every release of a item, I'd get one or perhaps two problem toys. The only exception was the VF-11B hip joint disaster... From what I understand of an manufacturing industry standard, it's about right... -Kevin Edited April 19, 2004 by VALKYRIE-EXCHANGE.COM
sidearmsalpha Posted April 20, 2004 Posted April 20, 2004 For the gunpod strap ripping, I did that once, and held the ripped end over a low flame of an oven range, and the heat from the flame melted the ripped end and the hole together. I just trimmed the end up a bit and made a new hole with a small nail to thread the ring through. It beats cutting the end off since the strap isn't very long as it is.
to177 Posted April 20, 2004 Posted April 20, 2004 I don't know if this have been discussed here already, but I'm gonna give it a shot. My vf-11b hip and leg part are broken off. Is there any solutions which I can do to fix it? It would be nice if we can still order parts from Yamato, but that doesn't seem like the case. Anyways, I've provided a pic of what I'm referring to. to177
RichterX Posted April 24, 2004 Posted April 24, 2004 Is the white round thing on the 1/60 Yamato's VF-1S right to the DYRL design? Should I paint it yellow?
mechatek Posted April 26, 2004 Posted April 26, 2004 Is the white round thing on the 1/60 Yamato's VF-1S right to the DYRL design? Should I paint it yellow? If you are talking about the dome on the backpack, yes. In DYRL, Focker's valk has that part painted yellow. I also like my valks as accurate as possible, but I skipped on painting it since I display "The Skull" in battroid.
VF-19 Posted April 28, 2004 Posted April 28, 2004 I don't know if this have been discussed here already, but I'm gonna give it a shot. My vf-11b hip and leg part are broken off. Is there any solutions which I can do to fix it? It would be nice if we can still order parts from Yamato, but that doesn't seem like the case. Anyways, I've provided a pic of what I'm referring to.to177 There's lots of posts on the subject, and a search will find you the good details, but the long and the short of it is: 1) Open up the leg, so you can remove the hip peg. 2) Using a brass pin, and perhaps a pinvise (a small hand operated drill), drill a hole into the piece that's broken off. Glue the pin in place using either epoxy or superglue (your choice) 3) Make a corresponding hole in the proper place on the VF-11 (where the peg broke), and after test fitting and cutting of the brass pin, glue the broken hip piece back on. If you're using epoxy, it might not be a bad idea to let it ooze out a bit, you can sand the excess off later. 4) After the glue is good and dry (24 hours to be safe), put the whole thing back together again.
memphis Posted April 30, 2004 Posted April 30, 2004 I found that the Bandai 1/55 re-product, during the fighter mode, the chest plate cannot been fully close... Then the Yamato 1/60.....the joint are very easy to loose....i seldom take it out and play but it also became very loose... especially during the battroid mode...
Khyron Posted May 7, 2004 Posted May 7, 2004 The 'O' ring that holds the backpack onto my 1:48 Yamato broke off. Is there anyway to re-aatatch it? Any type of glue? It displayes fine in Battroid mode because the other ring is in place and how it attatches at the top.
DrClay Posted May 10, 2004 Posted May 10, 2004 my Yammie 1:48 hikaru a is broken... but it's my fault...
Sumdumgai Posted May 14, 2004 Posted May 14, 2004 Got a QC issue on a new 1/48 Miria. The left wing flap is really the wing flap for the right wing, flipped upside down. It only turns up easily, and it won't turn down well. When I feel the left wing and the flap and compare it to my other 1/48s (Max 1A and Low Vis) there isn't the same smoothness between the wing and flap. Fricken chinese or japanese worker didn't put my valk together right! I'm also seeing stress on the backpack hinge already and I just opened it... :sigh: Other than that it's a great valk, my first valk with fast-packs!
Renato Posted May 18, 2004 Posted May 18, 2004 (edited) I got my first 1/48 last week. It's a low-vis valk. After a couple of days one of the tiny little connecting ends of the gunpod strap has split, so although it stays connected most of the time, the strap tends to fall off from the connecting ring. If you get me. I wonder if this is a common problem. I suppose it's not so difficult to fix if I just get some adhesive for it, but still... Anybody else have this happen to their 1/48 strap? EDIT-- Yes, I just saw the previous page... looks like it's not a rare occurrence. Edited May 18, 2004 by Renato
Renato Posted May 18, 2004 Posted May 18, 2004 If your FAST Packs are causing your battroids backpack to flop around, try this thread.It even has pictures to illustrate how things should be done so this won't be a problem anymore. H I have a FAST pack set for my low-vis, but of course that particular connecting piece is all white, so I don't use it. I think the FAST packs are fine without the extra piece, aren't they? Or is there a danger of too much strain...?
F14Tomcat Posted May 19, 2004 Posted May 19, 2004 (edited) i broke the tab that hold my fastpacks up off on my vf1s 1/48 and i just found out its part BP9 Edited October 7, 2004 by F14Tomcat
Scream Man Posted May 24, 2004 Posted May 24, 2004 So I managed to find myslef a 1/48 VF-1A Low Vis. And its fine. Im gonna glue the flaps closed, and maybe the nose on, but thats just a personal preferance. My question is the paint. It feels very stick in parts, like tis coming off on my finegrtips. Is this just the feel of the paint, or does it generally come off? Largely this is on the legs and the top of the plane, in the parts thar are the shiney grey.
EXO Posted May 24, 2004 Posted May 24, 2004 I have a FAST pack set for my low-vis, but of course that particular connecting piece is all white, so I don't use it. I think the FAST packs are fine without the extra piece, aren't they? Or is there a danger of too much strain...? I'm assuming you meant he part that goes in the neck, if so, I hardly ever use that. I use the hook connected to the back plate more and I think it's sufficient. My question is the paint. It feels very stick in parts, like tis coming off on my finegrtips. Is this just the feel of the paint, or does it generally come off? Largely this is on the legs and the top of the plane, in the parts thar are the shiney grey. Scream Man, although the Low Viz has one of the finest paint job of the 1:48s (peobably because it's all one color) the weathering paint they use doesn't stick as well. I took mine off with alcohol becuase I don't think it was great weathering anyway and IMO, the valk looks a lot better without it. Panel lines are sweet too!
EXO Posted May 25, 2004 Posted May 25, 2004 So that paint IS coming off? that's the weathering paint. If you look at it closely, you can see your fingerprints.
Neova Posted May 26, 2004 Posted May 26, 2004 I'm adding these problems for my customer. 1/48 Millia Super VF-1J - Missing minus mold plug on arm 1/48 Roy Focker Reissue VF-1S - Head seem is too big Yamato's QC has gotten worst, not to mention the paint quality issues on M&M Super VF-1Js.
glenn52679 Posted June 3, 2004 Posted June 3, 2004 A T-shaped hook (w/c clicks to the valk's backpack to hold it in place while in batroid mode) of my 1/48 1S Roy has broken into two pieces. I plan to glue the two back together. I wonder if there's a glue that's strong enough to support a Fast pack booster yet flexible enough to endure many clicks to the backpack.
zeo-mare Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 just freed my 1/48 roy from his box and I noticed that they put him together using 2 of the left arms , so now when you look at him his right arm can see the screws, does anyone have the other arm for trade? I can swap with you.
glenn52679 Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 (edited) I'd like to see it first before I consider swapping valks. Where are you from? Edited June 4, 2004 by glenn52679
zeo-mare Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 hi i am in massacusetts actually I do not need the whole valk just the arm. I hate the fact the the screws are visable. It has just been taken out of the box so it is mint there is not stickers or panel lining done to it. here is the pic
Skull Leader Posted June 6, 2004 Posted June 6, 2004 I too have been wondering about the problem with the low-vis paint. What have been some other responses to this? Would a basic flat clearcoat save it? I don't want to detract seriously from the value, but I refuse to leave it in it's box either. I haven't transformed it yet, and I'm careful to hold it in the same spots every time (and as gently as possible), but I rather admire the weathering work they've done on it, and I don't want to ruin it.
glenn52679 Posted June 6, 2004 Posted June 6, 2004 (edited) zeo-mare, If I were you, I'm gonna bring that valk back where I bought it and complain about the flaws on it. The fact that your valk does not have the correct arm means that you cannot connect two arms together while in fighter mode. This is because the right arm has two tabs there that were supposed to be into the two holes in the other arm so that the arms were connected to each other side by side while the valk is in fighter mode. Edited June 6, 2004 by glenn52679
zeo-mare Posted June 6, 2004 Posted June 6, 2004 problem is i got it a while back form a fellow Macross worlder so i do not think i can send it back. also thankfully the arms hold in fighter mode so i am not to out of luck. i just do not particiarlly like the way it looks in Batroid mode because the screws are visable. chris
Neova Posted June 7, 2004 Posted June 7, 2004 zeo-mare, Check the parts thread. I have the part you need and others in the US might also.
buddhafabio Posted June 26, 2004 Posted June 26, 2004 what is the Best way to fix the non fast pack vf-11. hip problem?
valkyrietestpilot Posted June 26, 2004 Posted June 26, 2004 i've gotten lucky w/ my yamato's.the only issue i've had w/ any of the 1's i've had is my 1/60 ve-1 elintseeker.it's flawless,until you get to the sprues containing the fastpack horizontally mounted antenae.mine are gonna need serious trimming & sanding before they'll fit into their mounts on the fastpacks.i wished they'd painted the figures more correct too,instead of just using the roy-looking helmet trim.elint pilots have orange trimmed helmets.not yellow.
UN Spacy Posted July 23, 2004 Author Posted July 23, 2004 Whew. We have been blessed.....it's been almost a month and NO one has reported any mishaps with their Yamato's. KNOCK ON WOOD FOLKS!
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