phatslappy Posted March 16, 2005 Posted March 16, 2005 I've been itchin to do some customs, and looking at Jason C's custom ostrich made me want to do it even more. I've got like 3 jetfires just sittin there waiting for some work. But I want everything to turn out better than the VF-1D I did years ago. I don't want any paint chipping. And I want it to be purdy. I promise to be very patient and diligent. I had heard things about using future to seal things so that the paint didn't chip. But I have no idea how to go about using it. And would it work with any paint? I normally use Tamiya Acrylic paints. Quote
Jasonc Posted March 17, 2005 Posted March 17, 2005 I'm pretty sure there's a tutorial on these boards somewhere. But When it comes to paint, sealing, and the sort, make sure you sand down your parts first, especially the rubbing/grinding parts. That's the first way to prevent chipping and scratching. I like to use Tamiya as well. It's light, strong, and very easy to work with. If you sand down all your parts slightly, then wash with soap and water, plastic parts don't need primer. But all metal parts do and it's best to use a strong metal primer. For coats of paint. Two coats is usually good, and make sure they are light sprays. Thick, heavy coats will create a major pain. For panel lines, I use a mechanical .05 pencil and lightly draw in lines. The clear coats witll darkent the lead and make decent panel lines. Once the paint is done, apply your stickers or (preferably) decals. For these, make sure all air bubbles are out of the decals and that they are 100% flat and bubble free on the applied surface. I noticed you were curious about the Future polish. Honestly, I never tried it. I use the Testor Model Master line lusterless flat. This will not only harden your paint and seal it, but will also seal up your decals and make them appear painted on instead of a model appearance. If you mess up, use Pinesol to take the paint of the parts. Others have various ways of taking paint off. But the best way IMHO without dstroying parts is soaking them in Pinesol for 3 hours to a day. Use an old toothbrush afterward, some sandpaper, and soap clean and voila! Pinesol will not harn the parts or warp them in anyway, shape, or form. Hope this helps somewhat. Let me know if you have questions. Quote
EXO Posted March 17, 2005 Posted March 17, 2005 Make sure you use the regular pinesol. not the lemony fresh type. Quote
1 VF-1 2NV Posted March 17, 2005 Posted March 17, 2005 Make sure you use the regular pinesol. not the lemony fresh type. Why is that? Quote
kanata67 Posted March 17, 2005 Posted March 17, 2005 Make sure you use the regular pinesol. not the lemony fresh type. Why is that? addatives are bad. So iz my spelling. seriously though... what ever they add to disperse the aroma affects how it drys and looks just like you should NEVER use scented acetone to clean your glass, trust me Quote
Jasonc Posted March 17, 2005 Posted March 17, 2005 Yep, forgot about that detail. Regular Pinesol. The Lemon scented stuff doesn't even work as well. Quote
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