Airbrushing help

[phoenix01]

Ok, I'm following all the directions. Stir the paint with a brush handle until all th clumps are out. Three parts gloss paint to two parts thinner for enamel so it's the consistancy of milk. Yet I still get droplets instead of nice even coverage. How can I get this right? Any suggestions on what to do?

[nightmareB4macross]

How close are you holding it to the subject. It could also be that you are using low pressure.

[scand]

Use Tamiy Acrylics. Ther'e much more forgiving. I want touch anything else.

[HWR MKII]

you could have your pressure up too high as well so its causing the paint to atomize and dry a little before it hits the model. a lower pressure should allow for a wetter coat with better coverage. Normally tamiya paints are ok right out of the bottle i usually add just a little water for help but most times its straight out and i have no trouble.

[Mule]

Got any pictures of the problem?

[Ido]

Make a favor yourself, use acrylics.

[phoenix01]

I would use acrylics, but the local hobby stores don't carry Tamiya. All they have are the 1 ounce Testors Acrylics, of which I have no idea of the quality.

Sorry no pics. I am holding the air brush about 6-inches away and since I can't afford an air compressor, I am making due with the aerosol cans of propellent.

[armentage]

How much are you paying for your aersol cans?

Around here (NYC) they are ripping me off at $12 a can!

I'm getting a compressor this weekend.... they run around $100. Most cans last about 1 model... so within 7 kits you've spent the same money, and you have the advantage of being able to clean your brush for as long as you like to boot!

[jardann]

I've used the Testors acrylics and all I can say is...meh.

Sometimes they work well and sometimes they don't. I don't think that they cover very well.

Unfortunately I've got a bunch of bottles bought in those large assortment packs.

I've used the Tamiya acrylics a little bit and I think I'm going to slowly switch over to those exclusively. Maybe I'll let my son experiment with the Testors acrylics.

[jadefalconguard]

It could be that you are getting iced water ! These cans cool down very quickly, when this icing gets in your air feed it will detract H2O (water) from the airfeed hence the druplets in your paint !

You've got 2 solutions :

1/spray with one hand an shake the can with the other.

2/Place the can in a 'bucket' with warm water and cover the top of the bottle with a cloth

Ideal would be you get an airbrush with watertrap, but it took me 5 years before I bought one.

Hope this helps.

[Greyryder]

I've never had a problem with the Testors acrylics. I find they spray well, right out of the bottle. I wish I could find a place that sells them individually. For individual bottles, I end up getting the model master paints.

I tend to have to use the cans of propellent, too. The air compressor I have available is a big shop compressor, that you can run tools off of. Due to everbody here having different schedules, I can rarely use it, because it'll wake someone up everytime it needs to refill the tank. Local wally-woild sells the cans for about eight bucks a shot.

FYI on the regular Testors acrylics: They're made by Pactra, and they will stick to Lexan. I've used them a few times to paint some bit of detailing, before spraying in the Pactra Lexan paint.

[sneakers]

I use the Copic Market airbrush sets, but depending on the model kits, my first choice is the Tamiya because I like the vescosity of it.

[wm cheng]

You need to be a little more specific. If you've got pictures of it on the model - that would be best - but its a little vague to diagnose right now. What do you mean by droplets?

Is it really humid where you work?

Do the paint beed up into droplets on the surface of the plastic?

Is it plastic you are spraying onto?

It could be release agents on the model that wasn't properly scrubbed off or greasy fingerprints.

Are they droplets in the air - then it could be low air-pressure - are they sputtering or creating a splattering pattern on the model - all indicative of low air-pressure or partially clogged airbrush nozzle.

Lastly, you mentioned that you stir the paint with the back of the brush handle? Why, you should use the actual brush, it will mix it much more thoroughly.

Good Luck.

[phoenix01]

More information.

The droplets are paint less than or equal to 1mm in diameter. The droplets when dry give the surface a pebbly texture. I spray in my basement which is about 56 degrees fahrenheit not sure what the humidity is but it's the only place my wife wil allow me to paint in the house . I am spraying on styrene plastic using a Testors external mix air brush can't remember the model number but it's pretty basic. Since it is gloss white paint on white plastic (VF-1 Strike/Super) it wouldn't show on a photo too well. I'm doing the white on the paint because of the green putty (the Testor's white putty is craptastic and the hobby store only had that and Squadron Green) and to cover the swirls in the plastic as well as to give the model a nice smooth surface to apply decals to.

[Jagull]

wont acrylics not stick to styrene?

[wm cheng]

Sure acrylics stick to styrene - its all I use (Tamiya). You might be confused with regular art store acrylics - never use anything not meant for modelling (maybe except for future, but I don't even use that stuff for clear-coats)!

Hmm, 56F is kind of cold - I wonder if that together with an air can might result in lower than normal air-pressure - you know the lower the temperatures, the lower the compressed air pressure is inside the can. Additionally, there might be something going on in the differences in air temperatures between indoor and out, if you're home is 70F and you take it out to the garage, the plastic may not cool down to 56F by the time you spray it, conversely, it you take in cold plastic after its sprayed into a warm house, it may condensate slightly which works against the paint drying. Try to airbrush at room temperature whenever possible. Humidity is probably not a factor at colder temperatures as it tends to be drier.

You mention a pebbly surface - if its kind of like an orange-peel effect, it maybe because the gloss paint is too thick - or you are spraying in too thick of coats. Try thinning it more and spraying lighter thinner coats. Try switching to spraying flat or semi-gloss paints, it goes on much more smoothly, then spray a clear-coat in gloss to get the finish you want - that's what I do - I hardly ever spray gloss paints anymore - too picky and not enough coverage. Flat white is 5X better at covering dark spots (ie: putty) than gloss white of the same brand.

Good Luck,

Wm

[Kerr Avon]

A needle with a bent tip can also cause splatter for the same reason a dirty one will - it provides a place for the paint to collect for a moment before the collection is blown off as a droplet. I don't think it necessarily has to do with canned air - I use it as well in pretty cold temperatures and I don't have any problem.

[Berttt]

I am spraying on styrene plastic using a Testors external mix air brush can't remember the model number but it's pretty basic.

That could be your problem right there, I don't know about anyone else, but the Testors external mix airbrush that I have is ordinary (I won it in a comp), about the only thing I would use it for is pianting groundwork on a diorama. In fact it has sat in a drawer having been used once to see how well it worked.

Do yourself a favour man and get an internal mix airbrush. The external ones work on the principle that air passing over a hole will suck the paint out and atomise it in the air. Internal mix airbrushes actually push the paint through a hole and over a specially shaped needle which gives a far greater result.

If you can't afford to get one right now, shelve all you projects and save up untill you do. Once you have one you will never look back. Search the forums for which one to get as the topic has been discussed before.

Cheers,

Berttt

Edited February 16, 2005 by Berttt

[armentage]

Would you all say that buying an external mix Paasche H series was a bad move?

The guy at the hobby store really pushed it hard over the internal mix V series. They cost about the same (but the external mix was cheaper), he was pushing it because he felt it was easier to maintain.

[Greyryder]

Myself, I prefer internal mix.

I'm pretty new to airbrushing, and all I have is a fairly cheap plastic bodied Aztek, but having just given it the once over, I didn't find it too difficult to make sure all the gunk was out of it. I've always considered clean up to a part of painting, anyway.

[007-vf1]

Would you all say that buying an external mix Paasche H series was a bad move?

The guy at the hobby store really pushed it hard over the internal mix V series. They cost about the same (but the external mix was cheaper), he was pushing it because he felt it was easier to maintain.

Is not a bad move. I also have the H series with external mix and the guy at the store is right, its cheaper and easier to clean. My problem is that little screw on the bottom of the "ball -joint" nozzle part, it doesn't tight any more so it's somewhat lose.

Besides that it works like a charm in areas like the wing and fuselage where you can get through the painting quite faster with an even flow. I think we could compare it to the aztek..??

If you want very fine lines and very small detailed air brushing then I would recomend you a double action one where you can manipulate and control the flow..but painting models doesn't requere as much of that unless is a 1/200 scale or so...

[olivers]

I have read various posts about how much to thin Tamiya acrylics.

What is the general concensus for thining with regards to light and dark colours.

Thanks.

[armentage]

My problem is that little screw on the bottom of the "ball -joint" nozzle part, it doesn't tight any more so it's somewhat lose.

Heh the guy at the hobby shop said that too The guy's half crazy, claims he doesn't model at all, but he sure knows his stuff. I don't think he's ever even used an airbrush.

I'm begining to get comfortable with it... I have a more intuitive feel for the screw nozel - how much to open it for various types of paint, for different amounts of paint, etc.

Future took a while to learn but I think I"m finally spraying it *just* right.

[Odyn]

I also have the H series with external mix and the guy at the store is right, its cheaper and easier to clean. My problem is that little screw on the bottom of the "ball -joint" nozzle part, it doesn't tight any more so it's somewhat lose.

Hey 007-vf1,

One the great things I like about the Paasche airbrushes, is that you can get just about any spare part for them from paasche airbrush. I got my grandfather's old H type working again with a few spare parts, so I'm sure you can get the replacement part you need.

Odyn

[robopimp]

I also have the H series with external mix and the guy at the store is right, its cheaper and easier to clean. My problem is that little screw on the bottom of the "ball -joint" nozzle part, it doesn't tight any more so it's somewhat lose.

Hey 007-vf1,

One the great things I like about the Paasche airbrushes, is that you can get just about any spare part for them from paasche airbrush. I got my grandfather's old H type working again with a few spare parts, so I'm sure you can get the replacement part you need.

Odyn

Hey Odyn!!!! Thanx for putting that link to about the Paasche airbrushes. I've been looking on ebay with no luck finding all of the missing parts for my airbrush. I disassembled it for cleaning a while back and found myself hardly ever having time for my hobby. By the time I did get a chance I've already moved and lost some of the vital parts needed for the airbrush to work. My dumbass didn't even think about going through their website to order the parts directly. Being the kind, honest & generous person you are by sharing information amongst others. If it weren't for your post I'd be out buying another airbrush and wasting my money. Thanx dude, 4 REALS

[Vince]

I airbrush model master sometimes, and they are great -- if you're still alive afterward. I just thin them as normal, and spray as normal. Coverage and colors are as good if not better than most another brands. only problems are they dried up too quick, and not as forgiving as acrylics. just don't a fine detail airbrush with it.