Jasonc Posted March 24, 2005 Posted March 24, 2005 Thanks for the pic, EXO. I'm really impressed by the turnout of the dye. Doesn't look like it creates problems like getting too thick like paint. I've got a few junk chunkie Monkeys that should be experimental for this. Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted March 24, 2005 Author Posted March 24, 2005 Exo, That looks really great, keep us posted. NB4M Quote
Myersjessee Posted March 24, 2005 Posted March 24, 2005 Very cool. ACMoore (an arts and crafts store) has this stuff too! I made need to try it out! Quote
DatterBoy Posted November 16, 2005 Posted November 16, 2005 I've got my FUSION paints and was wondering, do I actually need to do any paint removal if I want to paint over my 1/48 1S? Thinking that I could just paint over it as opposed to haveing to use something to remove the original coat. Is this true? :Dat Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted November 16, 2005 Author Posted November 16, 2005 I've got my FUSION paints and was wondering, do I actually need to do any paint removal if I want to paint over my 1/48 1S? Thinking that I could just paint over it as opposed to haveing to use something to remove the original coat. Is this true?:Dat 345143[/snapback] I haven't tried that, I usually remove the paint, then use a wool pad to clean and sand, then clean them off completely, then spray. The reason I do this is to make sure I have no unwanted raised surfaces from the previous applied paint or prints. Quote
DatterBoy Posted November 16, 2005 Posted November 16, 2005 Can you use a coat of fusion over a previous coat of fusion? Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted November 16, 2005 Author Posted November 16, 2005 I never had to. I would mask off areas that I want in different colors. But this is something I'll have to try. Quote
Crazy Canuck II Posted November 24, 2005 Posted November 24, 2005 Has anyone tried submerging parts for a period of time? I'd be curious to see if the dye penetrates the plastic and if the excess could be removed. Quote
DatterBoy Posted November 27, 2005 Posted November 27, 2005 I have found that if you overspray, buildup does occur and you'll get thick parts of paint. I don't know how well the dye is supposed to work, but I have also found that after 3 days (you should give it 7) scrubbing off the paint is still possible and no dyeing has seemingly occurred and I wonder if it will to the ABS. As for submerging, I don't even know if you can get enough Fusion to do a submersion. :Dat Quote
EXO Posted November 27, 2005 Posted November 27, 2005 I've used tamiya over fusion... that worked ok. Quote
cube Posted November 29, 2005 Posted November 29, 2005 anyone tried Rustoleum Paint for Plastics? http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_p...ct_id=391&SBL=1 I just picked up a can and shot a few quick coats on a TF alternator part and a model. Seems to go on nicely, but a bit bumpy...i'll see how it sticks over the next few days. I'll give it a polish too and see if it smooths out a bit. Quote
cube Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 rustoleum paint for plastic update: the stuff works great...no need for primer, goes on nice and thin, so you can still transform stuff. Once it's dried for a few days, it is hard as a rock. I not only used it for toy painting, but also to paint some fog light covers for my car (color turned out to be identical to my car's paint, minus a bit of sparkle, so I figured why not). Took the car on a weekend trip to a ski town about 3 hours from my place...sand, snow, gravel, and a bit of rally inspired driving later and they are spotless. No peeling, no scratching. Overspray can be scraped off with a knife, and once the paint is dry you can't scrape it off with a fingernail unles you REALLY try (I imagine...I didn't feel like REALLY trying). I need to touch up a spot or two, then I'll post pics of the toy. You can get the rustoleum at any home depot Quote
DatterBoy Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 Sweet. At this point, all I'm looking for is more options on a color palette. Sounds to me like all 3 of these options are viable. Post those pics when you get a chance, it will be nice to see how the finish looks. :Dat Quote
ghostryder Posted December 23, 2005 Posted December 23, 2005 (edited) EXO What's that blue called? I'm thinking of using either the Krylon or Rustoleum sail blue for painting the trim for a 1/48 DYRL Max 1S, and it's hard to tell which brand matches better. The Krylon you used looks pretty close, maybe a tad dark. The sail blue seems to macth the Tamiya french blue used by Wicked Ace on his Roy-to-Max conversion. FWIW, I used the light gray Krylon Fusion on a resin recast head and bandai 1/55 (chestplate area), and got a very smooth, rock-hard semi-gloss finish. No surface prep needed on either the resin or plastic. Edited December 23, 2005 by ghostryder Quote
EXO Posted December 23, 2005 Posted December 23, 2005 EXOWhat's that blue called? I'm thinking of using either the Krylon or Rustoleum sail blue for painting the trim for a 1/48 DYRL Max 1S, and it's hard to tell which brand matches better. The Krylon you used looks pretty close, maybe a tad dark. The sail blue seems to macth the Tamiya french blue used by Wicked Ace on his Roy-to-Max conversion. 354582[/snapback] It's patriotic blue Quote
cube Posted January 11, 2006 Posted January 11, 2006 Sweet. At this point, all I'm looking for is more options on a color palette. Sounds to me like all 3 of these options are viable. Post those pics when you get a chance, it will be nice to see how the finish looks. :Dat 350705[/snapback] here is a close-up shot of the rustoleum paint for plastic...this stuff goes on great and there is only a bit of flaking where the shoulder/fender bit folds up inside...my fault really...i moved it before it was fully dry. Quote
do not disturb Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 hey >EXO<, is the TV max supposed to have white stripes on the arms? i was looking for reference photos so i could make mine as anime accurate as possible but came up with nadda. i ended up having to resort to the toy gallery section and chowser's custom but it didn't help much in the ways of small/fine details. any help would be appreciated! Quote
ghostryder Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 hey >EXO<, is the TV max supposed to have white stripes on the arms? i was looking for reference photos so i could make mine as anime accurate as possible but came up with nadda. i ended up having to resort to the toy gallery section and chowser's custom but it didn't help much in the ways of small/fine details. any help would be appreciated! 364847[/snapback] AFAIK, neither the TV Max 1A or 1J had the white stripe running lengthwise on the arm. Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted January 27, 2006 Author Posted January 27, 2006 hey >EXO<, is the TV max supposed to have white stripes on the arms? i was looking for reference photos so i could make mine as anime accurate as possible but came up with nadda. i ended up having to resort to the toy gallery section and chowser's custom but it didn't help much in the ways of small/fine details. any help would be appreciated! 364847[/snapback] AFAIK, neither the TV Max 1A or 1J had the white stripe running lengthwise on the arm. 364849[/snapback] I think the stripe was done for sole purpose of testing different paint (Tamiya) over Fusion. Quote
do not disturb Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 (edited) edit: d'oh, you answered before i hit post. Edited January 27, 2006 by haterist Quote
do not disturb Posted January 27, 2006 Posted January 27, 2006 i got a bunch of TV max questions if you could help me out. so looking at some of the other TV max customs, which one is correct? all of them have some little difference between them. for instance, on mine, i used the TV arms but are they supposed to have the thin black stripes going around it? same for the legs, black stripe or no black stripe? and what color is the head laser supposed to be? are teh details real? or are they something that the customizer added in just because? Quote
DatterBoy Posted January 31, 2006 Posted January 31, 2006 (edited) No stripes anywhere, head should be ALL blue. But I like adding the color variations as it seems more realistic than lack of detail. I thin kas long as you retain the white body, blue legs arms and shoulders, anything else is artist's perrogative. I've seen many variations and they all look pretty cool to me. Edited January 31, 2006 by DatterBoy Quote
phatslappy Posted January 31, 2006 Posted January 31, 2006 how come people don't use automotive paints? This guy who did some stuff for me used auto paints and it made things really hard and VERY durable. The paint was very hard and didn't scratch off. Quote
Skull-1 Posted January 31, 2006 Posted January 31, 2006 how come people don't use automotive paints? This guy who did some stuff for me used auto paints and it made things really hard and VERY durable. The paint was very hard and didn't scratch off. 365046[/snapback] I *DO*. That's what I am trying to get these guys to try out. Quote
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