Using Plastikote and/or Fusion

[nightmareB4macross]

Plastikote -

How to use:

1. Dry brush parts clean with a toothbrush or anything similar. You really want to get all the dirt out. Do not use water, unless it is necessary.

2. Lightly sand parts to get a smooth surface. This will help to get scratches out.

3. Rub parts clean with alcohol or windex. No need to soak.

4. NO NEED TO PRIMER.

5. Mask off any parts you do not want in the particular color selected. **Light colors will go on just as easily over dark colors. Use at your discretion.

6. Set up your spray area. Overspray does not stick like enamel paints it just turns to dust. Try spraying items in a open area.

7. First coat is sprayed on lightly. You want the first coat to dye the surface.

8. FIVE minutes later, spray on the second coat. Cover until reach the desired color.

9. FIFTEEN MINUTES later, part is completely dried and can be handled moderately. DO NOT remove masking until you are please with the results of the color.

10. Respray if needed.

Things to remember:

*This is a dye, not paint.

*Always spray at least 6-8 inches away from the object.

*Colors appear exaclty as on the cap.

*Allow 24 hours to dry, prior masking for dual toning.

*Use in a well ventilated area.

Pros:

**Quick drying.

**Very durable.

**Does not harm plastic.

**Ultra smooth finish.

**Scratchproof.

**Can be sprayed on Primer.

**Can be sprayed on Paint (you must test it first), in very light coats.

Cons:

**Is tempermental when applied over different types of paint. It either causes it to crack the paint or flake it off.

**Cannot be used on metal, it will not adhere.

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Fusion -

Pretty much the same as Plastikote.

Pros:

Extremely durable. Scratchproof.

Cons:

Roughs up the surface. Gives it the feel of the 1/48 fastpacks.

**See Cons for Plastikote.

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Using on Resin:

Plastikote works fairly well and goes on smooth

Fusion - Roughs up the surface. Gives it the feel of the 1/48 fastpacks.

Resin must be extremely clean in order for this to work well and coat evenly. Even the slightest trace of mold release will NOT allow the dye to take effect onto the resin piece.

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Places to buy:

1. All American - Downey, CA: Best Place for most colors of both brands available.

2. Michael's Art and Craft Supplies, Anywhere: Carries the the most obscure colors, such as, pumpkin orange (great match for Super O).

3. Home Depot, Anywhere: Carries both brands with limited availability of colors.

4. Walmart, Anywhere: Carries both brands with limited availability of colors.

5. AutoZone, Anywhere: Carries both brands with limited availability of colors.

More to come....

NB4M

Edited March 23, 2005 by nightmareB4macross

[Deadzone]

Okay, I went online to Plasti Kote's website. The only thing I found was something called Plasti Kote Vinyl color used to repair the vinyl in cars. Is that the same one you are using in this review or is it a different product?

[nightmareB4macross]

That's the one. It has a dual purpose that works on both plastic and vinyl.

I want to try it on resin next. Hopefully it will work out.

[Neova]

Any pictures to show off the effect?

[EXO]

nightmareB4macross posted his Leggios painted this way in his Blue Leggios thread here:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=13204

You need to get a better camera, lol.

So you cant really do details with acrylic on that paint because it doesn't react well with other paints. How's the color selection with that line of paints? I've seen these at Home Depot and I always wanted to try it out.

[hirohawa]

Has anyone used either of these on a Yamato 1/48?

Is it really scratchproof?

Thanks

[hirohawa]

ttt

[Myersjessee]

So, as a dye, is it really scratch off-able at all? Neat idea...

[hirohawa]

Just got some and want to attack an old beat up jetfire.

Stupid question but does it work on the diecast metal parts?

[nightmareB4macross]

MJ-

Fusion is much more scratch resistant than Plastikote. On either of the two you can't remove the color with your fingernails, but if you use a sharp object like an x-acto it can remove overspray without damaging the final coat.

Hiro-

These types of mediums are dyes and do not adhere to any metals. You would have to find a paint that would coat well on metal, and always remember to use primer first when painting metals.

I an currently working on a low-viz scheme on a bandai, using these types of dyes. It is coming along very nicely. I will post "clear" pics soon. Nothing like the legioss.

Stay posted.

[hirohawa]

WHich color are you using for the Low Viz?

Can you mix the colors in a bottle and spray them through an airbrush?

Edited February 25, 2005 by hirohawa

[Jasonc]

Ahhh, I'm gonna have to try this, as this seems like such a great replacement for toys that transform. So, fusion brand works better, or is that a different type of product. I don't know much about this, but it has sparked my interest and I'll definitely look into this as a new method to paint.

[nightmareB4macross]

Resin update....see main post.

[EXO]

been testing this on a 1/48

the surface adherance is amazing but it doesn't pass the corner test. So far i can easily rub it off the corners rather easily. it says to wait seven days for it to become chip resistant... I won't touch it until then...

[nightmareB4macross]

Exo,

What did you try? Plastikote or Fusion?

[Greyryder]

I used Fusion on one project. I had to repaint the whole thing, becasue I started handling it, before it was totally cured. I found that I had to let it sit at lest two or three days, or would would get tacky from skin oils, and never dry.

How's the wear resistance on the Plastikote? I'm doing a custom Tranformer, and it's got a few parts that are going to have wear problems. One will have some serious rub, during transformations.

[EXO]

Exo,

What did you try? Plastikote or Fusion?

Fusion

[EXO]

7 days later...

It fracken works! Awesome!

Tested on an 1/48 part AND resin.

[nightmareB4macross]

What does the surface look like on your tested piece?

Mine keep coming out somewhat like the 1/48 fastpacks, good looking but not smooth.

Could you post a pic.

[EXO]

It's a beautiful finish. Too bad the colors are limited though.

[hirohawa]

Is that going to be a Max 1A?

[EXO]

I have one 1/48 that I have so I can scavenge for parts and do tests on. But If I can get a 1J soon, that will be a 1A TV Max.

Edited March 20, 2005 by >EXO<

[promethuem5]

I've got a Banpresto VF-1A CF I am planning on doing a whole repaint to with a full weathering and detail job.... got any tips for applying acrylics on top of the Fusion?

[EXO]

just lay it on top. I just tested Tamiya on there and it goes on smoothly. doesn't scratch off either. I'm really impressed.

[promethuem5]

Sweet. What about adding a clear sealer to the final product? Any issues?

[EXO]

The one issue I have is finding a hobby store that has the damn things in stock... all the ones around me only have glossy clear coat...

[nightmareB4macross]

Hey Exo,

Glad to see someone else out there is using this great stuff.

To clear coat an item you might want to try acrylic spray can. The method I used was to simply spray from about 10-12 inches away from the item. When the acrylic hit the object it almost instantly dried on contact. Also you can handle the part in about 15 minutes, without worrying about damage to the finished surface.

Crystal Clear in very light coats actually works. Don't over do it, as it will show off an uneven glossed surface. Try it on a practice object.

When using other paints over Fusion or Plastikote there seems to be no problem, but when you spray this on other paints, no matter how long it has been dried, it will actually crack the paint. You can use it with some success on paint, only when you apply thin coats at 1 day intervals. Very time consuming.

Hope this helps.

Edited March 22, 2005 by nightmareB4macross

[Jasonc]

So, with all the great results that everyone is having with this stuff, I'm gonna try it out. I'm going online today to order what I need. Did anyone decide which brand is better?

[EXO]

Hey Jason, I went to Wal-Mart for the fusion paint. They have both brands next to each other though. Go there in person so you can see the color on the cap.

[jenius]

2 questions:

1) If you had a plastic part with resin attached would the product look the same color on both the plastic and the resin? (if it adheres to resin at all)

2) I'm thinking about trying this on that VF-17 I just modded, do you think it's possible to use it on a plastic that starts that dark??

[Jasonc]

thanks EXO. I'll be making that trip soon to the nearest Walmart.

[nightmareB4macross]

Jenius,

1. The only way it has worked for me is to really make sure the resin piece is completely mold release free. I used this on a custom VF-1A head that is made up of half rein and half plastic. **TIP: Use ultra-fine steel wool to sand the resin and plastic just a little , prior to application, this will help the Fusion or Plastikote adhere to the resin.

2. It does work on dark colors, but very light coats are required. Read and follow the instructions on the can and you should be albe to reach your desired color. I used white on blue (1/35 Legioss) and got the color to match the white of other white on white parts.

[EXO]

OK, here's the piece I attached to my Focker 1S to test it for transformations. No scratches so far. The white stripe is tamiya paint. No scratches on that either.

I applied it to a resin piece after washing it with dishwashing detergent and warm water. I went to show it off to a friend and forgot it at his place. He was pretty impressed about the application too.

[Eternal_D]

damn that looks really good...gotta get me some of that when i get back.

[Die, Alien Scum!]

Hey >EXO<, how many coats did you apply?