goo seeping from resin?

[do not disturb]

i painted this resin head the other day and after a day or so it was still sticky. i thought perhaps that i might have applied too many coats, so i took the paint off, washed it down, let it dry and painted it again. well, i just picked it up now and it was all sticky again. it was dry at one point but now when i touch the paint sticky, it doesn't come off on my finger, its just kind of gooey.

anyone know what this is all about? i've painted other resin pieces with the same paint(citadel water based) and never had this happen. WTF?

any help would be appreicated.

[Gundamhead]

Sorry to hear it and tell you this. It sounds like a bad batch of resin. It probably wasn't mixed properly. Your best bet is to talk to the guys you got the kit from, and see if they will send you a rplacement part.

Your only other option is to drill out the gooey area, and fill it in again with a putty or epoxy. But it may be even gooier deeper.

[leo]

i painted this resin head the other day and after a day or so it was still sticky. i thought perhaps that i might have applied too many coats, so i took the paint off, washed it down, let it dry and painted it again. well, i just picked it up now and it was all sticky again. it was dry at one point but now when i touch the paint sticky, it doesn't come off on my finger, its just kind of gooey.

anyone know what this is all about? i've painted other resin pieces with the same paint(citadel water based) and never had this happen. WTF?

any help would be appreicated.

I recommend you dry that piece totally, then sand the piece. It does sound like you got a bad batch resin,. or could it be your paint? I suggest you get some dry ice near to suck up all the moisture of that piece or something similar, or better yet use a hair drier. (heat help stablize resin's molecular structure, but don't over heat it) Here's my 2cens, hope this help.

L.,

[cobywan]

Leeching resin is nearly impossible to work around. At my work we had this situation and the resin leeched through sanding, priming and paininting with lacquers. I have not seen a succesful save out of this situation.

I heard this can happen by mixing some resins too much. It's supposed to break some of the bonds. Or some kind of nonsense like that.

[promethuem5]

I have the same thing happen with some soft PVC toys i had.... they asre all sticky feeling now... I think it is sopmething to do with the paint reactiong with the plastic... is it sticky before you paint it?

[do not disturb]

thanks for your help guys.

i guess i'm shiet out of luck then.

li'm gonna have to get another one i guess.

[Myersjessee]

I have seen this happen with resin that isn't mixed correctly or isn't mixed in its parts correctly before mixing (ie part A seperates in the container and isn't properly remixed before poyring part A) I agree with others...it's not salvageable....you will need a new piece. (sorry)

[Grayson72]

Hey that sounds like my favorite candy, crunchy on the outside, gooey on the inside.

[Vespaeda]

I haven't worked with resin kits before and based on the things I have always heard about them(deform under weight or room temp. heat, ooze unstable oils/films, excessive weight), I'm not in a hurry to try.

I have done my own scratch building with more conventional/stable materials and 2-part EPOXY adhesive resin(R/C modelling). One thing I've learned is that I can sculpt or fabricate loadbearing or drillable components for landing gear and motor mounts.

If you feel you don't have the skills to scratch one up from polystyrene scrap & may have a bit of a wait before you get customer svc. involved(if any), why not try and salvage what you can of your head piece?

Suggestion; you will need:

1 Can of Great Stuff foam, black/red/yellow can(Home Depot): ~$3

1 or 2 pkgs 2-part 60min epoxy adhesive: $2.65 ea

Talc, baking soda or crystal clothing starch: <=$1./bx

1 heat gun or hair dryer

disposable plastic cups or bowls and stir sticks

Try this: Test Great Stuff Expanding Poly-U on a piece of scrap resin from the kit sprues or flash.

If they stick to it and won't slide off when set, forget it. Get plaster of Paris

Otherwise you can fashion a quick, cheap female mold that can hold your defective parts shape well enough to copy.

Spray the foam in a disposable cup or bowl big enough to impress the part in. You will want to smear a little baby oil on your defective piece & immerse it a little more than half-deep in the foam. Let sit near a dry, warm place and when cured in 2 hrs, gently pull the piece free and repeat process w/more spray foam and the opposite side of the head piece.

2 rough impressions of the head should exist. The foam can be sanded or carved easily and you can approximate where a join line should be for 2 parts cast from it.

You can mix up the epoxy adhesive evenly in a medicine cup or 35mm film can, according to pkg directions, in an amount that you know will provide enough to top off one mold at a time. As soon as the 2 parts are ~80% evenly blended, mix in the talc(powder)thoroughly,@ ratio 2 to 3 w/any epoxy present. You will have ~10-15mins before the mixture begins to set up. Turn on your heat gun and while directing it on the liquid epoxy to turn it honey consistency, pour this into 1 mold half(heat speeds up epoxy curing, so don't 'dilly-dally'. Set aside.

Repeat for opposite mold.

Given 8-12hrs to set, you will have 2 rough textured but accurate copies of the defective piece. If you know how to sand & detail, I'm sure you could take it from there. Great Stuff leaves a lot of voids and bubbles, but use it in an arid, moisture free environment, it can minimize foaming. Probond Poly-U glue works better for these female molds, but takes longer to set.

I've done this for hard to replace plane parts and custom linkages but if I was to need a replacement Valk head, I'd probably just build it from less messy solid plastics & carved sub pieces.

Its only a 'McGyver'd' suggestion. Wish you good luck.

Vesp

[do not disturb]

alrighty then!

thanks for the suggestions but i think it'll be less work/time/money for me, if i just try and buy a new piece.

strange tid bit but i don't know if its true?

one of my buddies that makes custom lego pieces said that alka-seltzer would remove the excess settling solution(or what that crap is called) from the casted piece. anyone know if this is true?

[Graham]

Heh, saw this thread title and it immediately made me think of this quote from Aliens: -

Dietrich: "Looks like some kind of secreted resin."

Hicks: "Yeah, but secreted from what?"-

Haterist, I'd suggest getting the Pulse Rifle from the armory and checking your house for any signs of Alien infestation .

Oh, and lets just hope you don't get any sudden chest pains.

Graham

[polidread]

scary things that happen to resinkits!

[Zentrandude]

Heh, saw this thread title and it immediately made me think of this quote from Aliens: -

Dietrich: "Looks like some kind of secreted resin."

Hicks: "Yeah, but secreted from what?"-

Haterist, I'd suggest getting the Pulse Rifle from the armory and checking your house for any signs of Alien infestation .

Oh, and lets just hope you don't get any sudden chest pains.

Graham

great now I can see a chest burster poping out of resin made minmay.

any updates yet? wonder if he can fix it.

[HWR MKII]

The answers given were all i could come up with too. as for Prometheums problem. If you paint a PVC or Vinyl kit with oil based paints and no acrylic primer the paint will not dry. All vinyl kits need an acrylic primer coat if you want to paint with any oil paints.

[promethuem5]

HWR- I'm painting PVC with acryllic paints after applying a coat of Krylon Auto Primer and then sealing that paint with Krylon Matte Finish. I don't use oil paints

[do not disturb]

i contacted the vendor the other day and hes taking care of me, no questions/money asked. its good know there are actually people out there trying to do the right thing.

[captain america]

Actually, as was said above, there's absolutely nothing you can do if your resin part is "sweating", you'll litterally need a new part. This reaction is most likely from improper mixing of the 2 catalytic components; it's quite litterally "sweating out" chemicals and will eventually break-down. When the resin is mixed properly however, there's no worry.

As for painting, you can paint over resin with anything: lacquer, enamel or acrylic, don't even need primer. As for vinyl kits: acrylic ONLY. Any other type of paint/solvent will react with the vinyl and remain permanently sticky.