Oil wash question.

[Ido]

What is the best oil paint thinner to use for the oil wash? (Or just the differences if there isn't a best.)

[HWR MKII]

mineral spirits work well. i found that ones like testors airbrush thinner have a tendancy to make artists oils coagulate or get chunky at times. if its just enamel paint than normal paint thinner works well.

[johnybgood18]

hummm... It depends!

I would recommend using the brand own stuff if using enamels.

If using artist oil paint, talk to the salesman (saleswoman) at the store, they should be able to help you out. You can also use turpentine, although it really smells bad!

I use a stuff which is odorless but I must admit that it ain't that good... it seems like it can't disolve all the paint and leave a grainy feel to the wash when dry! i have to find something else!

Cheers

[Ido]

Pure mineral spirit strip the paint pretty fast, I'm going to use it pure or thinned with something? Please post your own opinions.

There is an oil paint solvent that will not arm my paint job?

[HWR MKII]

are you basecoating in acrylic or enamel. it shouldnt eat away acrylics. ive never had any real trouble. the thinner i use for my enamel wash is good old testors airbrush thiner. thats perfectly safe for crylics.

[Ido]

Ah, yeah it's true it don't dissolve the acrylics, I tried with a q-tip and the paint was stripped, but It must just be that the q-tip was a bit abrasive and stripped the thin layer of tamiya blue, with a brush this didn't happended,Thanks for the info.

Can I strip a kit painted with enamels with Mineral spirits, or this will damage the plastic?

Edited December 30, 2004 by Ido

[mechaninac]

Can I strip a kit painted with enamels with Mineral spirits, or this will damage the plastic?

For stripping paint off a model (enamel or acrylic makes no difference) without harming the plastic (polystyrene is specially sensitive to thinners and will become very brittle) I've had good results using spray-on oven cleanes such as 'Easy Off'. Just make sure to put all parts to be stripped into a non-leaking plastic bag and completely coat all parts in it, then close the bag and let sit for at least an hour. Most, if not all, of the paint will come right off and the plastic will be good as new; any minor areas that still have paint can be cleaned by repeating the process or by using small amounts of thinner with a hard bristle brush...I find that a toothbrush usually works quite well.

Most important if using the 'Easy Off' method is to work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing in any vapors; the stuff is an extreme irritant and will have you gagging in no time flat if inhaled.

Cheers!

[HWR MKII]

it was the Q-tip. i used Q-tip on my ivanov SV-51 and it did the same thing since thepaint had not cured for its full time. i agree with mechaninac on the thinner making plastic brittle. it can also debond glues after a time too.

the EASY-OFF method works but being spray on the stuff likes to run off the model and your coverge isnt even. WHESTLYS BLEACHE WHITE works well its basically the same chemical thats in the oven cleaner but in liquid form. just pour it into a tupperware tub or container big enough to hold the model and place the model in it. let is sit for 2 days and then scrub with a toothbrush and warm water. the paint and decals should come right off. just be sure your parts are well rinsed off before you paint.

one other little off topic tip . if you wash your parts before your initial painting try using rubbing alcohol to do te cleaning. it dries quicker than soap and water aand has less of a chance of leaving residue.

sean

Edited December 30, 2004 by HWR MKII

[Ido]

I dubt I can find those products in Italy, eh eh. I don't use enamel paints anymore but just Acrylics for the base coat, tamiya paints are so easy to strip with windex.

I must buy a lot of stuff yet. €€€

[007-vf1]

Before you go for the oil wash or any wash for that matter I would suggest you to go through a light clear coat layer wether is made of acrylics, enamel or future (acrylics) this way if you do the same with the Q-tip or any other mistake you'll, most likely, strip the clear coat away and not the paint.

As it has been mentioned before, let the paint cure a couple of days if not more; same goes for the clear coat the key is going light on it or an enamel clear coat might wash off the base acrylic coat; this happened to me twice.

I clear coat the model with enamel base testor and the wash is made with oil paint diluted with mineral spirits which would actually wash the clear coat away but in small amounts and enough drying time it doesn't happen.

[onezero]

For artists oil paints, the best thing to thin them with is "odorless brush cleaner/oil paint solvent", available where artists oil paints are sold. Been using the stuff for years now. It won't attack properly cured enamel or acrylic paints.

[Ido]

Thanks to all for the hints