VF-0 Air brake

[U.N.N.GhostRider303 VF-0]

How you drill the small holes out in the VF-0 air break without damaging the part?

What's the best tool for the job?

[David Hingtgen]

wm cheng can probably tell you exactly how, but it's always best to drill a smaller hole than you need, then work your way up.

[U.N.N.GhostRider303 VF-0]

You know, I sent him an e-mail about a week ago I think and I've yet to hear from him.

[JoLe727]

Here's the link that indicates how to drill the hole. Demonstrated by wm cheng.

Hope it helps.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...pic=5881&st=240

[Stamen0083]

Use the tip of the X-acto to make a guide point, then use a 1.5mm drill bit in a pin vise to drill. No power drill. That's much too fast and inaccurate.

Edited November 14, 2004 by Stamen0083

[Less than Super Ostrich]

unless you have that Tamiya hand drill... that is much more user-friendly than a full sized power drill.

[bsu legato]

In a perfect world, that airbrake would be an ideal candidate for a photo-etched part.

[Solscud007]

Yeah get yourself a pin-vise. a pin-vise, if you dont know, is a small hand operated drill. Kinda like a large jewler's screwdriver. You know the ones im talking about. They are like 5 bucks at any hardware store. the handle is stainless steel and at the butt end of the handle is a palm rest that swivles. Well pinvices are like that. except they have a hand tightening chuck. You unscrew it and there is the drill bit holder. Something similar to an X-acto knife, if you have ever taken one apart. decent ones like mine have two holders with two different size holes, one on each end. so all together you have 4 holes. teeny to large. I will post a pic later today.

[tetsujin]

In a perfect world, that airbrake would be an ideal candidate for a photo-etched part.

Well, you could always photo-etch it yourself...

[David Hingtgen]

"miniature spiral hand-drill"=far superior to a pin-vise. IMHO. They're even smaller than a small pin-vise, and drill much faster/easier.

[U.N.N.GhostRider303 VF-0]

I was going through some tools and came across a variable speed dremel. Do you think that'll do it, or would it chew the thing up? Also thanks for all the help in advance guys, you're all great.

[Stamen0083]

Well, if you want to risk it, you could try it.

I'd stick with a pin vise myself. I have much greater control over it than I would a hand drill, unless it spins at perhaps sixty RPM.

[Sam]

I think you will find the dremel even at its lowest setting will tear it apart. You are really best not using one for such small precise work

small hand drill/pin vise is definately your safest option mate

[U.N.N.GhostRider303 VF-0]

Ok, I picked up a pin-vice at the nearest Sears. so hopefully when I get to that particular section it will go about smoothly. Then again when building kits nothing ever really does go smoothly huh? I also picked up some Testors liquid glue. The stuff in the triangular container. Anyone here ever use the stuff? I usually use the orange tube stuff, but I also came across some blue tubed stuff too. Any recommendations?

[Stamen0083]

About the glue... ditch the Testors and pick up some Gunze Mr. Cement Deluxe. I've used Testors for years, but once I've gotten a taste of the Gunze, I would never go back.

[David Hingtgen]

Stamen--how thick is Mr Cement? Over the years I've found the thickness of glue to the most important thing---too thin is unusable IMHO, and too thick is always stringy.

[Stamen0083]

Stamen--how thick is Mr Cement? Over the years I've found the thickness of glue to the most important thing---too thin is unusable IMHO, and too thick is always stringy.

It's quite thin when it's a new bottle, but I've left mine open overnight more than once, so my current sample is a tad thicker than before.

But it's not stringy at all.

I've heard good things about Tamiya's extra thin cement, so I think I will get a bottle of that and try it out next time. Thin glue is always very nice. The reason I love the Gunze so much is that it actually works like plastic cement is supposed to, i. e. it actuall melts the plastic and bonds them together. The Testors crap is very weak in that regards. It does the job, but not as well as the Gunze.

[wm cheng]

Hey there,

Sorry, UNN Ghostrider - I never got your e-mail or PM. I would recommend the pinvise idea (since its what I used). But I am curious about David's spiral drill - don't know what it is - can you post a picture of one? Definitely not a dremel - its too fast (even at the slowest setting) - I've chewed up too many kits to remember with mine - I've almost stopped using it all together (unless you're going for battle-damage )

Hmm, I must try the Gunze glue, I've been using the Testors orange tube all my life - and its fine for strong bonds - tried the blue tube stuff once - its really slow acting stuff - takes forever to dry - supposed to allow lots of time to adjust the part, but it takes more than 2 days to sufficiently dry (wouldn't recommend it). The Tamiya liquid is great, its what I use most of the time now.

p.s. just finished another grueling stint of work - maybe there's some time for a model now

[AlphaHX]

p.s. just finished another grueling stint of work - maybe there's some time for a model now 

YES!!!

Whats next?

I'll start the bowing now...

Edited November 15, 2004 by AlphaHX

[Stamen0083]

But I am curious about David's spiral drill - don't know what it is - can you post a picture of one?

Every drill bit is a spiral drill. I don't think spiral is the keyword we should be concentrating on here. I'm curious whether this thing is powered. If it's indeed smaller than a pin vise and is powered, we have something here.

Otherwise, it's just a small scale pin vise.

p.s. just finished another grueling stint of work - maybe there's some time for a model now 

Oh. My. Gods.

Wait for the VF-0D and build that! Build a VF-0D! VF-0D!

Or an SV-51, so you can build it now and not have to wait until December to start work.

[David Hingtgen]

My "mini spiral hand drill" is basically a small pin-vise with a "roller" that spirals around a slotted shaft. The spiral refers to the actual main part of the drill itself, not the bit. If you made a Twizzler™ out of brass, that's what the main part is. You can drill MUCH faster and easier than with a pure pin-vise, but it's still far slower and more accurate than the slowest power tool. ::looks around:: I think there's a fair chance many people consider what I have a pin-vise, and aren't aware a "true" pin-vise is even simpler.

Here is the exact one I have:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=60348

In the photo, the roller is being gripped by the thumb and middle finger. That moves up and down the shaft, causing the drill to rotate. The uppermost part of the drill is on a bearing, allowing you to hold it in place with your pointer finger (as in the pic) while the drill spins below it. There's many variations you can figure out on how to hold it, and how to rotate it---it's kinda fun to "play" with and see how all the bits interact.

Edited November 15, 2004 by David Hingtgen

[Less than Super Ostrich]

My opinion, this is your best bet... easy to use and good control. Handles very small drill bits too. You can vary the speed to your liking. Generally, I use this to drill pin holes for reinforcing heavy parts in resin kits.

Edited November 15, 2004 by Less than Super Ostrich

[U.N.N.GhostRider303 VF-0]

Cheng,

It was nothing major, it was actually a reply to the original e-mail you had replied to some time ago, regarding the subject matter of this thread. So no big deal. You replied and that's all that matters