Need some costing advice.

[Metal_Massacre_79]

I've been toying with the idea of getting back into model building, but this time, dammit, I want to do it right. Last time I built a model, I think it was a '71 Hemi Cuda, and it was over 8 years ago that I put it together.

I think the Hasegawa models are going to be a bit too hard for me to get back into the art, but I need to kinda figure out of this hobby is going to be too expensive for me. Need some ideas on how much you people spend on modeling and what kind of equipment is needed.

Any help you can give is appreciated.

[azrhino]

I think you are going to find the gamut out there. I know some guys in

my modeling club that turn out great models using Testor's cement and

rattle cans. I unfortunately, seem to feel that I need the best equipment

I can afford, and that the equipment alone will make my projects master-

pieces.

WRONG!!! They are pieces...but I won't say of what.

I will say that some things work better (or at least make the work

more pleasureable) with better tools;

a SHARP X-acto blade,

my Iwata Eclipse airbrush,

good paint

And if you want to reduce a lot of swearing, get a good kit. The Bandai/Arii/

Imai Macross kits may be cheaper (and are great for practice) but a well

engineered kit like the Hasegawa kit go together so much nicer.

The important rule obviously is have fun, and if it looks good to you,

thats all that matters.

Just my $0.02.

Later

Edited October 22, 2004 by azrhino

[agass4u]

If you are looking to use airbrushing, I suggest that you just bite the bullet and get a good single or dual action airbrush and an air compressor. I have had my paasche for about 2 years now and I have not had any problems with it. The replacement parts such as needles are not that expensive and will last you quite awhile. Togeather you are looking about a little over $200, but it will save you time after trying most crappy cheaper airbrushes that clog very easy and eat through air cans like there is no tomarrow. Also good kits to start with are the Gundam High Grade kits in 1/100th scale. They are rather cheap, if you don't buy them from a retail store, and they don't require that much detail to look good. In fact, you can get some of the Silhouette Formula 91 Gundams for about 10 bucks, minus shipping, at Hobby Link Japan. I think they are out of stock at the moment, but look around I am sure you will find a kit that you will like. Then once you feel more conforatable, you can start trying more advanced kits like Hasegawa kits or even Bandai Perfect Grade kits. Good luck and here is the link for Hobby Link Japan's Website: www.hlj.com

Edited October 22, 2004 by agass4u

[BinaryFalcon]

Cost can be high or low, depending on what you get and how much you're willing to spend. That's the nice thing about it, really.

If you're just starting out and are unsure about how much you want to get into the hobby, I'd actually advise against getting an airbrush right off the bat. You don't need one. They're nice to have, but you can do work of equal quality for less money without one.

For starters, I'd suggest finding a kit you like that's not too complex or expensive. I wouldn't go dirt cheap though either, as to an extent, you get what you pay for in a kit.

IMO, something like a Hasegawa or Tamiya kit might actually be easier if you're starting out, as the parts fit is overall likely to be better than your run of the mill Monogram or Revell kit. However, the Monogram/Testors/Revell stuff is generally good anyway and it's the kind of stuff I built while growing up.

Avoid the snap together kits if you can, or if you do get one, plan on cutting off all the snap pins and gluing it together anyway. Typically snap kits won't go together or hold together as well.

For glue, get a small bottle of liquid plastic cement. Skip on the tube type stuff. It's messy and prone to melting the model in ways you don't want if you use too much.

Get a set of nail clippers for removing parts from the sprues (plastic runners) and a decent X-acto type knife.

Buy the paints needed for your project, plus maybe some basics like red, blue, yellow, black, white and silver that you always keep on hand. Maybe pick up a couple of spray paints in the overall colors of your project. Get a bottle of the appropriate thinner/brush cleaner as well as a small assortment of brushes. Small, medium and "larger" usually work fine. I also prefer to get sable brushes as well. I'm not too fond of the synthetics. However, higher quality brushes are more expensive, but IMO, are well worth the small (perhaps as much as $5-$6 per brush) investment.

Add a roll of painter's masking tape, assorted grit wet/dry sandpaper (240, 320, 400, 600) and some filler putty and you should be good to go.

Depending on how much of each item you need, you should be able to set yourself up with a respectable set of tools and paints for $30 or so. Going as lean as possible, you could probably manage it for around $20.

Add in the cost of the kit and that's where you're at, at least to start. Then, if you decide you like it, you can go from there and consider adding things like needle files, airbrushes, flush cutters, etc. They're all things that can make the job a littler easier and nicer, but are by no means absolutely required to do quality work. Keep in mind the initial costs will be slightly higher, as you'll need to get all of the basic tools up front. From there costs should go down slightly as you'll likely be able to use the same bottle of paint on multiple projects until you run out.

For example, the model pictured here: http://s93008310.onlinehome.us/images/nes/discovery.jpg was done with little more than spray paint (Krylon), some careful masking and some pinstriping tape and decals. I do have an airbrush, but didn't see the need to use it on that project. Aside from the kit, I'd estimate it only cost me about $35 or so in materials to finish. However, that's a bit higher than usual because it's a 1/72 scale kit and stands about 3 feet tall. There was quite a bit of epoxy and paint used during assembly, so the price is a bit higher than you'd see for an average plastic kit.

[Metal_Massacre_79]

I seen a Testor airpbrush/compressor kit for $50 at Wal-Mart the other day. I know how to do airbrushing, but curious if anyone thinks this brush is a half way decent one or not. When I did my airbrushing in high school, I used some of the better epuipment the school had, so I really have nothing to compare it to.

Also, I'm thinking that I'll probably start out on some Monogram kits (F14, F15, AH-64) and maybe some Gundam kits. Thanks for the info, any more tips are appreciated!!

[The_Major]

well in the equipment range, all i can tell ya is what i have and that it works very well for me, i use a Testors AZTEC double action airbrush and an industrial strength workshop compressor, the reason i like this airbrush is it allows me to use most paints, including a well shaken bottle of Tamia paint to be used without adding thinner.

Tips on airbrushing for the newb.

If your just starting out and like me Suck to no end at brush painting i give you 2 sugestions.

A. Continue practiceing at brushing (it definatly wont hurt and it'll come in handy when you get to the level of details such as advanced weathering and what not)

B. Buy a 10 dollar Testors airbrush. this is what i used to learn the ropes.

Glue Testors triangular Liquid dispenser is the best hands down, its all i use for plastic. (although i do use a special type of glue for my resin projects)

small grain wet/dry sand paper is a must. i use squadron brand.

i have yet to find a the right kind of putty for filling gaps squadron putty seems to suck, it cracks too easy and falls off. ( im in need of sugestions here too)

and a sharp Hobby knife.

now for the kits, i started building models when i was about 7 or 8 so ive been in the business for 12 or 13 years, still quite the amature to some of the folks around here, but because of my gung-ho atitude i jumped into the fray starting out with Skill level 2 and 3 Warbirds, most notable B-17s 24s and 26s as well as some P-38s 51s and 40s, and F-4U corsairs all made by Revell mongram and such companies readaly available at hobby lobby and toys R us, my only 2 hobby-ish stores at the time. but i would recomend these type of kits as they are nicely detaild and have a nice number of peices but over all arent too complicated to put together.

now by no means is this all going to be exactly right for you, youll come up with your own methods (wich is why cost is a verry hard thing to predict trust me i know ive tried)

anyway i hope this edition of T3h Maj0rz t0ta1y p0wn j00 sch00l of 1337 m0d3ling is of some assitance. in that one line i have now lost all credit as an inteligent being and the right to call my self human ............... so ill just call my self micronian and compleat the journy down the dark path of fanboyism.

Thats my $0.02

im leaving now, its 4 am here, man i need a life

Edited November 6, 2004 by The_Major

[BinaryFalcon]

i have yet to find a the right kind of putty for filling gaps squadron putty seems to suck, it cracks too easy and falls off. ( im in need of sugestions here too)

Depends on what Squadron putty you're using. Green is much better than white, IMO. You just have to be more careful with the green putty because you can deform the plastic if you lay down too much of it at once, I believe.

Beyond that, I've had good luck with regular Bondo of all things. However, I've mostly used that on multimedia projects, such as cardboard tube, paper, styrene, metal and resin parts. It's cheap, available everywhere and it seems to work on everything.

I hate the white putty though, and tend not to use it if I can avoid doing so.

I've also filled significant gaps with CA glue and baking soda. That works extremely well, but it tends to be tough to sand relative to the soft plastic surrounding the gap, so you have to be careful about how you do it. But for a quick, solid, load bearing filler it's hard to beat.

The main thing with any putty is to make sure you apply it to a clean, stable surface and build up layers. If you've got a large void to fill, you're much better off applying several thin layers with sanding in between each instead of trying to scoop a ton of filler into it in one shot.

Edited November 6, 2004 by BinaryFalcon