How to keep paint from chipping/scratching off?

[HG Blows]

I'm painting a YF-21 to make a max custom. But there's a lot of places that rub, and I wanna be able to transform the thing, not often but a couple times at least. I know clear coats not gonna be good for the parts that really rub, like the shoulder slider. So anyone know a good way to keep the paint on in those high friction areas? Thanks in advance.

[Neova]

Try these tips:

1) Note places where the paint is coming off

2) Take Valkyrie apart

3) Sand down offending area that is rubbing and ruining your paint job

4) Put back together (don't screw it down yet) and repeat to step 1.

DO NOT SAND SO MUCH MATERIAL THAT IF LOOSENS OR INCREASE THE FRAGILITY OF YOUR TOY. YOU WANT TO REMOVE AS LITTLE MATERIAL AS POSSIBLE TO MAINTAIN THE INTEGRITY OF THE PART YOU ARE MODIFYING!

5) After confirming area is not in contact and won't rub anymore, repaint or paint the parts you want

6) Clear coat (thinly) a few times to protect the final paint job

7) Put Valkyrie back together

[Jasonc]

Okay, how about this problem. I bought some recasted parts, and for some reason, after washing the parts, sanding, and all the necessary precaustions, the paint comes off with not too much effort. I'm using enamel paint cause I figured the acrylic wouldn't hold as well on this type of recast plastic. Is there another method I should do to make the paint stick. Oh, and yes, I did use primer. Thanks for your help.

[Neova]

Have no idea! Try another primer such as Mr color Mr Surfacer, Tamiya Metal and Plastic Primer or better yet, auto paint primer (expensive).

You might want to try to soak the resin part in dishwashing liquid + water solution overnight to eat all the release agent off or use something stronger like Castrol Super Clean.

I love using CSC to clean the house. Amazingly great stuff that doesn't do well to remove Valkyrie paint for some reason.

[Jasonc]

I did the soaking overnight with the non scent, non die soap and water, that didn't help. But the auto priver, that might be the only way. Hmmm, Will that eat the plastic? It sucks cause I've never ran into this problem before. Well, worst case scenario is I find a hard as hell primer, primer the !@#$ out of it and then buy another orange can of paint to paint the armor again. Wow, customs, something always stops you in your tracks.

[hirohawa]

Crazy Glue or any CA glue can be applied to a spot of non cured resin that won't take paint. But I do not know how you would cover an entire piece in CA.

[EXO]

Smooth-on.com says to wipe the resin down with acetone (nail polish remover), wash again, let dry over night, then use Tamiya Metal and Plastic Primer. Just found this out myself.... That tamiya stuff is good.

[Neova]

Gunze just came out with Mr. Resin Primer! Better than Mr. Surfacer 1200 from what the model shop guys told me. I just picked up a spray can and will let you guys know how it works once I get the time to try it.

But the Tamiya Metal and Plastic Primer is what most guys use for resins over here.

[Jasonc]

Hey, thanks for your help on this matter. I'm going this weekend to pick up the acetone, and the Tamiya metal/plastic primer. Where would I be without my fellow MW members