Newbie ANSWERS thread!

[wolfwood390]

alright im sold, thanks alot for the links, I just have one more question, How big are they? to be as specific as I can how does it fit in your hand? how does it feel in jet and battleroid mode, both for the 1/60 and 1/48.

[do not disturb]

alright im sold, thanks alot for the links, I just have one more question, How big are they? to be as specific as I can how does it fit in your hand? how does it feel in jet and battleroid mode, both for the 1/60 and 1/48.

check here..

http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/_toys_menu.htm

click on "yamato" and check out the reviews.

[wolfwood390]

once again I thank you.

[Dobber]

I've been temted to get a reissue Roy or Hikaru 1/48 VF-1S. What reissue is the best to get? I see that Neova's store has several different reissues and I thought I remembered people saying certain reissues are better than others. Any help would be appreciated.

Chris

[kensei]

I think tou will have to figure out what's best for you, as we never see Max with his FAST Packs on his VF-1S, and also the fact that Hikaru's VF-1S Heatshield and FAST Pack was red as well remains debatable.

I take this back there was an appearance with FPs in M7, but I can't see what color the JR was.

[Blahness]

First post! Anyway, I've been lurking around these forums for some time while making a desion as to whether I should buy a yamato VF-0S valk. To make a long story short, I eventually decided to give in to the temptation and recieved my first ever valkyrie in my mail two days ago.

The good news is, I absolutely LOVE the look of the VF-0S...this has got to be one of the most beautiful toys I have ever seen. The attention to detail on it is simply amazing, and I could spend half an hour just staring at it and drooling.

The bad news is, my zero does suffer from the floppiness issues that have been discussed quite a bit in these forums...of course I can't really complain about that since i knew what i was getting into. I think I must have at least had 3 heart attacks my first time transforming it since i'm a complete noob with these things (and the zero, in my opinion, is not a noob valk), but fortunately, I didn't break anything.

One thing I cannot figure out for the life of me though...How do you take the intake covers off to reveal the engines??? I'm sure there's got to be a better way than to try to rip it out with brute force, and I would appreciate it if any VF-0 owners can answer this stupid question from a nooby Zero fanboy.

P.S. Has anyone been able to tighten up the arm joints in any way? There is very little motivation for me to transform this baby into battleroid mode if it can barely keep it's arms up with a gunpod...

[Blahness]

Nevermind, after much sweat and tears, i finally figured out how to take the intake covers off.

Yes, I am slighly retarded.

[Phren]

Alright. I am ashamed to post this, but, how the HELL do you get the intake covers off the 1/48 VF-1? I've owned these things for what, 3 years now? I never had an issue because I thnk the engine turbine "details" look like a grey stamp on a white block, so I left them on. Out of boredom I decided to take them off and found.. they don't want to. I mean I pryed and pulled from every angle. How DO these things let go?

Nevermind> Stick something thin in and pry them foward from behind, of course.

Edited December 2, 2006 by Phren

[Batou]

Alright. I am ashamed to post this, but, how the HELL do you get the intake covers off the 1/48 VF-1? I've owned these things for what, 3 years now? I never had an issue because I thnk the engine turbine "details" look like a grey stamp on a white block, so I left them on. Out of boredom I decided to take them off and found.. they don't want to. I mean I pryed and pulled from every angle. How DO these things let go?

Nevermind> Stick something thin in and pry them foward from behind, of course.

I've also found that if you push it in slightly from the bottom (of the removable intake cover, not the entire assembly), it will lever outwards enough to allow you to get a fingernail in there. Just a quick pop out from there.

[Scream Man]

Can the CM max figure fit in the Qrau as the CM pkt seems to indicate

[RDClip]

I just bought my first Macross figure, a Yamato Millia Q-Rau. Anyway, while i was playing with it there was quite a bit of creeking noises that made me a little nervous. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or if it is on the verge of snapping or something?

[jenius]

Can the CM max figure fit in the Qrau as the CM pkt seems to indicate

It's my understanding that you can kinda force the CM figure in but not close it up if you do. I don't own one so I've never tried.

I just bought my first Macross figure, a Yamato Millia Q-Rau. Anyway, while i was playing with it there was quite a bit of creeking noises that made me a little nervous. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or if it is on the verge of snapping or something?

I think you'll be alright, there are lots of joints on the Q-Rau that start off super stiff (but can get loose pretty quick). Sounds like it could have just been part of the toy settling a bit. Other than getting loose I haven't heard of many people breaking Q-Raus.

[V2Assault]

i've always been seeing this from HLJ:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00017

which production version / release would this be? is this the "improved" version wherein it has the nosecone locks, etc.?

[RDClip]

Little question here. Are there bootlegs of the Bandai VF-17? I think i may have heard of them, but i've never seen one up for auction.(unlike the dozens of 19 kai boots)

[VFTF1]

This might have been asked before but:

Is it possible to pull out the antena from the backpack on the 1/48s? It looks like it is, but I don't want to break anything.

VFTF1

[Nostalgia]

This might have been asked before but:

Is it possible to pull out the antena from the backpack on the 1/48s? It looks like it is, but I don't want to break anything.

VFTF1

Yup, IIRC you're supposed to do that in Gerwalk/Guardian mode, not that anyone cares.

[konimon]

Hello, MWers.

I've been lurking here for a quite a while. Been collecting 1/72s, and purchased 1/48 VF-1S with strike pack and I was quite happy with them (My VF-11 broke before transformation as everyone here probably knows how, but I managed to fix it). VF-11 is definitely my favourite.

Anyways, this is after I have seen some pics of VF-1J Hikaru here. It brought back my memory. I've sold some of my transformers collection and purchased VF-1J, GBP, and Konig Monster past year. Now I am looking at either VF-0A or YF-19.

Aside from my financial situation caused by the new arsenal, I haven't been able to make up my mind if I should go ahead and buy YF-19 because I expect there might be quite a few color variants coming down the line like VF-1s. I know it might be premature stage for predict future for still new 19s.

What gives??

P.S. I also made quick photoshop repaints myself. It's based on original 19, so just the color swap.

I honestly don't know how different paint schemes are depending on different color variants. And I am not sure why I haven't done this in fighter mode...

[do not disturb]

Hello, MWers.

I've been lurking here for a quite a while. Been collecting 1/72s, and purchased 1/48 VF-1S with strike pack and I was quite happy with them (My VF-11 broke before transformation as everyone here probably knows how, but I managed to fix it). VF-11 is definitely my favourite.

Anyways, this is after I have seen some pics of VF-1J Hikaru here. It brought back my memory. I've sold some of my transformers collection and purchased VF-1J, GBP, and Konig Monster past year. Now I am looking at either VF-0A or YF-19.

Aside from my financial situation caused by the new arsenal, I haven't been able to make up my mind if I should go ahead and buy YF-19 because I expect there might be quite a few color variants coming down the line like VF-1s. I know it might be premature stage for predict future for still new 19s.

What gives??

P.S. I also made quick photoshop repaints myself. It's based on original 19, so just the color swap.

I honestly don't know how different paint schemes are depending on different color variants. And I am not sure why I haven't done this in fighter mode...

first off, let me say thank you for not starting yet another "which one should i buy thread"....theres way too many of those.

now to answer your question...

i'd hold off on purchasing either of them for the time being, instead wait the for reviews(and possible fixes) on the upcoming bundled YF-19 w/FP's and Fold booster release, as well as the bundled VF-0A shin w/ghost release. i know valkoholism is very difficult to fight but the bundled releases is an overall better value and they might have corrected some of the issues on valks that people have addressed(no matter how big or small).

i'd tell you to read through the 100+ pages for both but i'll make it easy for you...

YF-19:

its has a crooked gunpod, the fuselage seems too tight for some to transform, and the rear landing rears don't come canted. none of those things are a big deal to me(as they are easily fixable) but its been a deal breaker for some.

VF-0A:

first, don't get the VF-0S, its shoulders are very weak, the feet don't lock into position and is rather loose straight out the box. there might be some other issues with the 0S but i haven't bothered to purchase it due to its known flaws.

the VF-0A is a bit tighter overall but not by much, they fixed the feet so they lock in battroid mode but the shoulders are still very weak and prone to breaking.

the YF-19 is better overall IMO, but i'd still wait for the bundled set as they might have fixed some of the things people have mentioned and you might save some money buying the whole shabang instead of buying the valk and booster/FP set seperately. that is unless you don't care for the accessories? i myself don't.

the VF-0A is not worth buying. i love the design but the weak shoulders is whats killing it. if thats fixed, i'll gladly buy all the VF-0's varients but as is, no thanks. i don't need nor want to a purchase toy that will break all on its own.

hope that helps!

[konimon]

Thanks a bunch! I must have missed the feet problem of 0s. I do like VF-0's more than 19's as they were designed recently. I might have to stay on the safer side to wait for a review for Shin VF-0 /w booster set.

As far as I understand, YF-19 problem to me is acceptable (Me want valk > Problems).

More I think about this, I am not going to wait around for repaint 19s as none of them are announced as of today. My choice right now is YF-19FP set.

I hope SV-51 would ignite the demand for VF-0's and we'll find better reissues!

[do not disturb]

no prob dude, just don't preorder anything and get a POS.

wait until people in japan/china get theres and see if the improvements and fixes were made to the VF-0A, then place you order, its not like a brand new toy will be sold out all over the world.

as far as the problems with the YF-19, it ain't a problem cause this toy is Awesome with a capital A! i've TF'ed mine probably close to 30 times now and haven't had a single issue.

[Just In]

Hi MWF,

I'm planning to get a VF-1J Hikaru soon. Can anyone tell me whether the QC is better or worst than the VF-0S? Apart from the loose airbrakes, any other things that i need to watch out?

Also, read from internet searches that there's Japanese & Hong Kong variant. How do you differentiate them? Someone told me is it via the different colour of sticker with wording "big west", is this true? If so, what colour sticker is Japanese Version? And do i need to watch out for a reissue problem or which reissue is the best, if there's a reissue for VF-1J so far?

Thanks!!

Cheers,

Just In

[kensei]

Its' all good. I think the airbrake might be loose, but only a fraction. Bit of Elmers will fix that.

Joints are good. I honestly do not believe that there is a HK or Japanese variant. Some people believed that the Japanese ones were better, but I ordered 7 VF-1A Hikaru from Japan and they were horrible compared to my HK ones. Yes, all 7. My experience is more valuable than others in this aspect due to numbers. Those that make the claim often only have 1 at most. I believe that it is just a hit and miss.

VF-1Js feature all improvements of the VF-1 line. There were no more improvements after the introduction of the VF-1A Max.

Edited March 12, 2007 by kensei

[Just In]

Hi Kensei,

Thanks for the info. Can you tell me does the sticker of the 7 nos you ordered from Japan differ in colour than the one you'd brought from Hong Kong? If so, what colour are they? Thanks.

Cheers,

Just In

[kensei]

The Big West ones? They were purple.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

i've always been seeing this from HLJ:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00017

which production version / release would this be? is this the "improved" version wherein it has the nosecone locks, etc.?

They should. How long ago has it been when someone bought a vf-1 with loose nosecone? I don't think anyone has complained about that in ages. If you buy secondhand from someone with a old release there might be that.

Little question here. Are there bootlegs of the Bandai VF-17? I think i may have heard of them, but i've never seen one up for auction.(unlike the dozens of 19 kai boots)

I think graham owns a few of these actually. I remember asking about them. I'm pretty sure he posted some pics of them once. Don't see these on ebay at all.

[RDClip]

Just a q not really in the correct place(but i don't want to make a new topic)

I recently came to own a Yellow Submarine SDF-1 Macross cruiser mode resin kit. Any idea what the value of one of these would be?

[Just In]

Hi MWF,

I just got the hikaru vf-1j, love it but got heart attack just trying to transforming it. Can anyone please help with the following question:-

1) I remember reading somewhere in the forum that one had to be extra careful with the backpack while transforming it or something will break, is this true and if yes, what is it again?

2) From plane to gerwalk mode, according to the pic in guidebook, we swing the arm after bending the legs, but still the both the left and right arm plate will not easily swing pass. I guessing by force they will get thru, but is this dangerous, will the joint hold up?

3) To batteroid mode, the heatshield is also very tight, do we also pull it down by force?

4) To batteroid mode, i can't turn the head 180 degree pass safely, do we force it? Will the neck joint hold?

5) Anything else that i need to watch out for?

My apologizes if any of these questions has been asked & answered before. And thanks.

Cheers,

Just In

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

I think someone should do a transformation guide like the konig monster showing the backpack hinge transformation. Things to look out for like:

-make sure the spiky bit is not still sticking out from the hole in battroid mode or you will stress the hinge

-how you need to have the back collar of the battroid "sunken in" and not flush with the back, to keep the FAST Packs straight. draw arrows pointing to the little bumps where it "clicks in".

-how the shoulder piece must sit on the shoulders. (people always ask what that is for)

If someone had pics, it would be much easier for noobs to the transformation to understand.

Edited March 25, 2007 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker

[do not disturb]

1) I remember reading somewhere in the forum that one had to be extra careful with the backpack while transforming it or something will break, is this true and if yes, what is it again?

yes the backpack hinge can break but it usually happens when taking the FP kit(fast pack) off. just be sure to use the same amount of pull/push pressure on both sides of the backpack when attaching and removing them.

2) From plane to gerwalk mode, according to the pic in guidebook, we swing the arm after bending the legs, but still the both the left and right arm plate will not easily swing pass. I guessing by force they will get thru, but is this dangerous, will the joint hold up?

first, don't "force" anything, this is a no-no and should not be used when it comes to these toys.

the best way to get the arms through is to leave them folded like they are in fighter mode and swing them all the way out first, then fold them down into the slots your having trouble with....does that make sense?

3) To batteroid mode, the heatshield is also very tight, do we also pull it down by force?

its not tight, just snug. grab the heatshield with your thumb and pointer finger underneath the chest plate and pull it down gently. you might have to jiggle it a bit but it should slide into position without using much force.

4) To batteroid mode, i can't turn the head 180 degree pass safely, do we force it? Will the neck joint hold?

again, don't force it. its kind of tricky but when its in battroid mode and your TF'ing to fighter/gerwalk, you have to make sure to turn the head 180 first, then swing the neck piece around 180. from there, just slide BOTH head lasers through and thats it.

5) Anything else that i need to watch out for?

theres only one thing to watch out for....

your wallet.

[kensei]

I'd directly hold the backback together in DND's recommendation for 1.

The other situation where the backpack will break is when you try to push it too far up when transforming to battroid mode.

[Just In]

Hi DND & kensei,

Thanks for the info guys.

(To DND)

I think i get what you mean overall although i don't have the FP yet (have to try the rest later when back home). But can you please elaborate on 2. What i understand from a friend is that i have to unlock the legs hinges first so that both the arm plates can then slide out easily. (assuming TR'ing from fighter to gerwalk). From the guide pics, we suppose to be able to swing the arms plate without removing the legs hinges. So, which is correct or got better way? Don't really think the leg hinges will hold-up for so many transformation.

(To Kensei)

So, is it not good to lock the back pack as shown in guide pic when in batteroid, as this will stress the joint?

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Just In

[kensei]

It's good to lock it up, but not to push it up more than it needs to be. People have wanted to get a higher backpack position, and have consequently broke it.

[do not disturb]

(To DND)

But can you please elaborate on 2. What i understand from a friend is that i have to unlock the legs hinges first so that both the arm plates can then slide out easily. (assuming TR'ing from fighter to gerwalk). From the guide pics, we suppose to be able to swing the arms plate without removing the legs hinges. So, which is correct or got better way? Don't really think the leg hinges will hold-up for so many transformation.

i'll try to take some type of step by step pics and post them up for you tomorrow.

[Just In]

To DND & Kensei,

Guys, thanks for the effort. Much appreciated.

Cheers,

Just In

[The Nighthawk]

Is there any news about a 1/60 YF-21? I've seen a couple people mention such a thing but can find no solid info. Is this something that's actually confirmed to be in the works, just a speculation, what? 'Cuz I'd sure love a larger-scale version with better tooling than the floppy 1/72 FP mess I have now. A 1/60 VF-11 would be nice too (seems to be a good scale for standardization).

And has Yamato ever, or are they ever going to, acquire the Macross 7 license? I really, really need a 1/60 VF-17.