Paint technique, lines, wash... HELP, TIPS

[Kiotcloudkicker]

What is this "wash" technique exactly? Does it work w/ tamiay paints? and is it far superior to the "gundam pen" technique?

How do you get rid of gaps? and what products do you use?

[Ido]

There is already a topic for the tips, however look at this:

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/TnT_Archive...-weathering.htm

[HWR MKII]

tamiya is acrylic so it will be difficult to get the paint to wash in the lines without beading up the best thing i found is to do a 50/50 mix flat to gloss mix of testors enamel black and thin it to your preference. then take a fine point brush and tap it to the lines and details. if its done correctly the paint should flow through the detail and color it with ease. try to use tamiya and polly scale paints for your base coats since acrylic paints wont turn to mud when thinner is put on them. as for fillers and gaps i use squadron white putty. most hobby shops carry it or the green version and the stuff works well.

[promethuem5]

to lessen surface tension in washes (prevents beading up) mix in a few drops of Johnson's Future Floor wax. I paint wargamming miniatures and swear by it

[HWR MKII]

ive tried the adding future bit and am not pleased with the glossy sheen that results from using the floor wax. i still stand by using enamels, artist oils and thinners or mineral spirits in my washes. plus a jug of thinner or spirits is way cheaper than a bottle of future floor wax.

Edited October 19, 2004 by HWR MKII

[promethuem5]

well yeah, future has a glossy finish. thats why you put a coat or three of matte finish sealer on the finished product. you should never consider a work done until you put clear sealer on it.

I also fiond that a cote of future on decals will help keep them on if you have more work to do after decal app.

edited for retarded content, haha

Edited October 25, 2004 by promethuem5

[HWR MKII]

i save the flat coat until last. i like to keep my paint thickness to a minimum. another way to counter decal silvering is to use a slightly semigloss paint your decals should not have any trouble with a little setting solution. FIVE COATS OF CLEAR FLAT! i dont know what your using to put it on but with an air brus it shouldnt take more than 2 coats tops. first a haze coat to start and second a wetter coat to settle everything. im stuck in my ways because they are contest proven to get results and have nevef failed me. over in england pollyscale paints are rare as hensteeth but ronseal makes a water based matt sealer that thins great with tamiya acrylic thinner. you can find this at a DIY(do it yourself store). for people in america ronseal is there too and can be found at home depot.

Edited October 19, 2004 by HWR MKII

[promethuem5]

I was kidding about teh five coats mate three is usually good on metal...two for plastic.

[HWR MKII]

thank god. i didnt think you were using that much on your other kits. you scared me for a minute. but for others reading 5 COATS IS WAY TOO MUCH! unless of course your handrubbing laquer onto the body of a 1/8 scale 65 vette or 87 IROC/Z trying to get that showroom shine. been there still doing that.

Edited October 22, 2004 by HWR MKII

[promethuem5]

Yeah, I fixed it in the initial post fpr anyone skimming it. It does depend on teh kit and the thikness of coats. I prefer to slather it on in one long coat usually (which is very bad) but it is realy be4tter to hit it with like three very thin coats. I know some of my buddies do a coat of gloss first, then two coats of dull...for whatever reason, UV protection I thinks