What glue for resin kits?

[Valk009]

Hi to all you model/resin pros!

Just starting to venture into resin territory (an SD YF-19) and would like to know what glue to use?

I basically know the rest...lots of clean-up, sanding, filling out gaps etc... but not too sure about the glue...will normal model glue (those little bottles with the clear stuff in it, which also gets you high) work?

Valk009

[Radicon]

Hi Valk009 -

Good luck on your foray into resin kits. I'm sure you'll enjoy building the kit although IMHO, it takes a bit more work compared to plastic kits.

The best glue for resin kits is cyanoacrylate glue, also commonly referred to as CA glue, super glue, crazy glue and "that glue that bonds your thumb and index finger together" .

The so called "glue that gets you high" I think refers to plastic modelers cement which is only suitable for plastic kits. It works by "melting" the plastic thereby crating a strong bond. Since there is no plastic in a resin kit, it obviously won't work.

Hope this helps!

[Mule]

Are there any CA glues out there with at least some work time? I've had very little experience with resin, but the CA glue I used bonded almost instanly. So the position that the parts were in when they made initial contact contact is the position they stayed in.

[dyowelb]

Are there any CA glues out there with at least some work time? I've had very little experience with resin, but the CA glue I used bonded almost instanly. So the position that the parts were in when they made initial contact contact is the position they stayed in.

USE THE MEDIUM OR THICK ONES....THE THIN ONE DRIES QUICKLY...

[mslz22]

I use zap a gap (availiable at hobbyshops) in the green bottle, it seems to give me a few extra seconds and really can fill a gap, especially on a resin kit if you drop a bit into a gap and then sand a bit near the gap (do not sand off detail!!!) and let the resin dust attach to the glue.

[Grayson72]

You can also buy stuff that is specifically designed for slowing the cure time for CA.

And like others have mentioned there's several different kinds. The thick stuff is great for seams that don't fit all then well together, it's actually called gap filling CA and is designed for that specific purpose. I use both depending on what my needs are.

[goldenboy_forever]

dude if you really want to get professional don't forget to use pins to reinforce the the joining area with glue it also helps to set the part in place while the glue sets. just use a dap of paint and touch the two ends of the resin together where there suppose to meet to set the mark and a small hand drill to make the hole and a sewing needle for the pin or what ever kind of metal pin you perfer. Hope you have fun making your model. If its a robot i've seen people get crazy awsome customs by buying joints like the ones used for gundam models and make there resin kits poseable.

from Rich

[dyowelb]

here's a link that i think will be helpful...i believe stamen posted this link before.

http://s89202096.onlinehome.us/

check out his tutorial section.

thanks,

d

[neptunesurvey]

I use Super Glue Fix-All Adhesive. Its thick glue and it quickly dries. It works well on everything including minitures and plastics. You can find it at any Michael's stores.

[Valk009]

Thanks guys!

One more question though; don't those crazy glue leave behind a funny white coating? Can you then just sand it off or will it affect the bond?

Valk009

[neptunesurvey]

The Fix-All has not given any problems at all. It dries clear and its great for filling in gaps.

[Radicon]

Thanks guys!

One more question though; don't those crazy glue leave behind a funny white coating? Can you then just sand it off or will it affect the bond?

Valk009

In my experience, sanding hardened CA glue can be very difficult if you allow it to cure/harden for a few hours. Fully cured CA has the properties of rock hard plastic! I suggest buying a CA glue accelerator (available in some hobbys shops and hardware stores) to speed up the curing process and then sand off any excess glue immediately after it hardens.

To dissolve CA glue, I've always used nail polish remover. The active ingredient is acetone which can give off noxious fumes so wear a respirator when handling it and work in a well-ventilated area.

Hope this helps.

[CoryHolmes]

Since there is no plastic in a resin kit, it obviously won't work.

*twitch* *twitch* *twitch*

Sorry, but the polymer chemist in me just can't stand that

Anyway, another thing I've seen tried is five-minute epoxy if you're going to bond large surfaces together. Haven't tried it myself, but it does look like it could work.

[Gerwalker]

Since there is no plastic in a resin kit, it obviously won't work.

*twitch* *twitch* *twitch*

Sorry, but the polymer chemist in me just can't stand that

Anyway, another thing I've seen tried is five-minute epoxy if you're going to bond large surfaces together. Haven't tried it myself, but it does look like it could work.

I'm a chemist too. That statment is almost an insult!!!

The funny thing was resin is sometime used in paint industry as a synonim of natural resin... I had a big argument last year with a patent lawyer about this issue.

[AchtungMacross]

A great way to use super glue if you can't sand in an hour is to mix it with talc, or baby powder with talc.

Just use a toothpick to mix a few drops of Zap a Gap CA with an equal amount of talc, it creates a composite that is stronger than plain super glue, yet is easier to sand off, even after days.