"I got one of those 1/55 replicas" series

[geecie30]

I bought a set of valks for a custom.They were hideous ,in original form .The molding flash or sprues are still slightly present(rough).I have sanded and or cut them off.I'm sanding all the plastic down lightly for paint adhesion.The goofy decals were rubbed off with wd-40,then cleaned with detergent. I plan on giving my valk a nice color of my choice.Tommorro if I can I will paint it.

Edited August 20, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

I have taken every part apart and all of the parts were carefully deposited into about 10 ziplock bags.I did this because i didnt want to make a diagram but i wanted to quarantine the parts with their corrosponding screws,as the screws are varying in size.If you know your 1/55 you shouldn't need to worry.there is no trick to it.

Edited August 20, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

about half is painted but I saved the arms and legs for last because they need the stripe done using tack putty to fill the round holes on the robot ankles

Edited September 1, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

Ok I heard about the krylon fusion argument and I went ahead and used it on my custom .This coat looks great and feels durable, so we will see I painted most of the model and saved the arms and legs for tommorro.But heres a wing,or do you prefer a thigh

Finally by happenstance I've found a krylon fusion experimenter-Interesting insight

Edited September 6, 2004 by geecie30

[nucleartiger]

looks cool so far!

sup from eBay!

[LORD KUNGFU]

Dude, sweet man. I cant wait to see what it will look like finished. I have a bunch of those cheapy 1/55 valks. I have not painted anything, yet, but I will add lights to my fast packs thrusters so they have that afterburner look. Im trying more to customize my joints, amongst other things, then I will move onto the painting process. The main thing I want to do is take that painted canopy off and put a clear one on. IF you figure out how to do that, you must post that here. Keep us posted on your prodject.

[geecie30]

today was nice and hot and warm-windy which is perfect for spray painting outside.So that afforded me the window of opportunity to get the small pieces painted.I stabbed holes into my cardboard box with a chinese skewer.Then I impaled (usually put the sticks into the screw holes in the parts.), all the parts, with lots of those bamboo skewers and put the impaled parts on the sticks, in the holes in the box.The box was taped shut like a cube.so, I took the box with the little parts out side in the wind and painted them rotating the box four times on a little table that I covered in newspaper and the table was about hip level, so that I didnt have to bend. I pick an area where there are no shadows and glare.The little parts that have no where to anchor the sticks I just take some of that tack puttyto adhere the stick to.

As you can see this is all black,The root of all evil is the heart of a black soul.it will have white stripes and a blue periscope camera instead of the green skull camera lens.(I dont know what they call it).I think the radar in back will be blue and the ankle holes will be blue as wellor maybe yellow but with no doubt the chest stripe will be white.kind of an inverted roy vf-1s .

Edited August 23, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

Dude, sweet man. I cant wait to see what it will look like finished. I have a bunch of those cheapy 1/55 valks. I have not painted anything, yet, but I will add lights to my fast packs thrusters so they have that afterburner look. Im trying more to customize my joints, amongst other things, then I will move onto the painting process. The main thing I want to do is take that painted canopy off and put a clear one on. IF you figure out how to do that, you must post that here. Keep us posted on your prodject.

well I have compared the original bandai against this replica and it is the same size in the canopy.The problem is that the canopy is molded onto the valk.This isn't really a major problem it would be easy to cut off the canopy and make one or reuse the cut off canopy.But,for me, since I have two cheapo valks I can make one in battroid mode and another valk that only transforms into gerwalk or fighter.for the fighter valk I would paint the canopy some blue color to appear like see through kindof like the mpc alpha prototype if you remember.but if you carefully cut off the canopy you could always use a canopy from another 1/55 that isnt in fighter mode Greatneck saws have been good for my mini cutting necessities I can always find these midget handsaw frames and blades at almost any hardwarestore.for plastic i look for the small teeth blades.the rest of the canopy cut off carefully with a razor

Edited August 24, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

I wanted to get a good paint job so I took every part apart

Edited August 23, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

The chest piece has been masked.I didn't mask the wings and leg stripes because the plastic was allready white.I didn't want to try to get the paint off the chest.Well,I tried but easy off oven cleaner wasn't strong enough ,so its ok I will have to paint the chest plate stripe.the stripe is kindof a hybrid cross between bandais' and yamatos style or a bit of my own.It also looks crooked here but it isn't I scanned this piece and the its kindof at an angle.Also, with krylon fusion if you want to paint any other color ontop of the krylon fusion you must paint it within 24 hours otherwise you must wait 7 days to paint anything on top of the krylon fusion.

the first 24 hours the initial curing process hasn't been completed but after 24 hours a 7 day molecular hardening process is in effect.The krylon representitive told me that the krylon fusion turns into plastic and even though the paint is perfectly cured in 24 hours ,there still is a 7 day wait period for painting on top of fusion.I think I would rather wait 7 days to remove anydoubt,because the thinners that are in paints might thin the base coat(krylon fusion),causing it to maybe reliquify.

So,basically make base coat in krylon fusion and wait 7 days to paint details,stripes ,and such.there are plenty of things you can do in the interim.like watch the olympics.

Edited August 24, 2004 by geecie30

[jardann]

That's looking really cool! Can't wait to see the finished item. Repainting these cheapo bootlegs can really turn them into a nice looking model. I bet the Krylon fusion will help with the toy holding its pose too. A nice thick sturdy paint should make the joints just that much tighter. Keep us posted on your progress!

[geecie30]

whats funny is how light the paint levels.If it were regular spray paint it would be thick .This paint is bizzare its real thin and strong I can barely understand it .real smooth.I notice with the joints that the tighter the screw is ,the tighter the joints get .I wont have to worry about loose joints on this particular robot.I will put it back together today.But the visor on the head will need to be painted in 6 days

You ever notice that the bandai 1/55 has grey lasers on the head as in picture figure# (1)?

when refering to the 1/55,Iam curious why I have never seen any one paint the head gear laser white like in the cartoon as in figure#(2) on the vf-1s Roy Fokker

I will do number (3) my take on it for my custom

Edited September 6, 2004 by geecie30

[geecie30]

its a bit dark tonight so I will take some better pix later.I also need to complete some detail like the blue eyes on the head,and other assorted things and I must say that this paint is very durable and stood up to reassembly with no chipping, peeling,or any questionable quality.I was surprised.This is not like normal spray paint,I would never recommend normal spray paint on plastic but krylon fusion turned out real nice in my book and this krylon fusion is not "normal spray paint"I would also mention that you should never try to paint to the last drop of paint.Once the paint starts running out while spraying dont keep spraying because then the right mixture when the can is near the end is out of balance and mostly air or propellant and it adds a flatness to the paint.some people might be tempted to save money on paint but if you know that you are at the cusp of running out of paint in the can just stop.you can always use this last bit of paint on the bottom side of plastic on the some part that is underside like under the chest plate since you dont really need a great coat in that spot.

Edited August 26, 2004 by geecie30

[LORD KUNGFU]

interesting. Looking good so far. Just wondering if you plan on doing panel lines. If so, how do you do panel lines on a black paint scheme. It looks good though, I hope you can get better pictures up so we can get a better look at it.

[geecie30]

if i did panel lines it would probably use a micron pen by sakura for normal colored valks i use the micron pen with number 005 but for white colored ink for panel lines i would probably use

Link

Link#2

Edited August 27, 2004 by geecie30

[MyClone]

geecie30:

Fantastic work! Thanks for the pics, and for the information about the proper use of Krylon Fusion. I gotta get some of this stuff for my planned custom.

Best,

--MyClone

[geecie30]

I am so busy with things that, I scarcely have the time for learning curve for the inevitable immenent essential airbrush that I plan on using and purchasing.I love restoring things so, I have learned a bit about different things I could use,besides I didn't want to spend a mint on the custom that cost so little as in the case with this lil' bootleg nor would I ever spoil a Bandai Valk,all things aside it looks great to me and its a tough paint job not one of those crackin' paint jobbersons.

The fine detail will be my pet project when Iam bored so I will get it done sooner than later but not as vigorously as the rest of my hobby priorities.

If you care I will update this thread with upgrades as soon as I can

Edited September 1, 2004 by geecie30

[nucleartiger]

major improvement over the way it came.

[Toonz]

i love black valks!

how about bigger and close-up pics?

[geecie30]

I will try to get some bigger closeups ,this project is a work in progress and I will gladlymake some available here .I still have a ways to go.Next idea is to get the tabs on the shoulders painted amber like the normal valks.Also to get the head lasers round module painted black as I mentioned before. I just need to get some paint.I have ,however painted the visor so I am submitting it with this reply

By the way:The paint I used for the head visor is enamel,I think its more compatible with the black base coat (Well at least it dried fast and well in 8 hours),but Iam sure that "paint for plastic" acrylic would work

link#1 I've used before

<<<#2 same as #1 but in a smaller assortment (I wouldn't use the provided brush)

Is Paint for Plastic water resistant?

Yes, Paint for Plastic is water resistant but not waterproof. Water resistant is when water will roll off the painted surface, waterproof is when the painted surface is submerge in water. To give outdoors projects extra protection from weather elements use Paint for Plastic Sealer.For my purpose I would replace the words outdoor project with durable or sealed and completed

Edited September 6, 2004 by geecie30