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Dedicated to Bandai's Official METAL BUILD, METAL STRUCTURE, METAL ROBOT DAMASHII, and GFF METAL COMPOSITE. https://tamashii.jp/item_brand/metal_build/ https://tamashii.jp/item_brand/kaitai_shou_ki/ https://tamashii.jp/item_brand/metal_robot_tamashii/ https://tamashii.jp/item_brand/gugundam_fix_figuration_metal/ https://tamashiiweb.com/item_brand/chogokin/?wovn=en For Third Party Gundam stuff, click here: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/topic/43723-the-third-party-gundam-thread/ For Everything Else Third Party (outside of Transformers and Gundams) Metal Build-esque type figures and what not, click here: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/topic/45860-the-everything-else-third-party-thread-not-transformers-and-gundams/

Revealed at Tamashii Nations 2024. In celebration of the upcoming 40th Anniversary of the first film (1985).

The previous thread folded to the Hall of Super Topics. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35195 Here's a recap of what's coming in the next few months. April 2012: Super Parts for VF-25F and VF-25S May 2012: YF-29 reissue June 2012: Armored Parts for for VF-25F and VF-25S, plus VF-171EX No word on when the rest of Skull Squadron is coming.

I was just wondering will bandai make voltes v? coz they already did combattler why not make voltes v?

Unveiled at Tamashii Nations 2012

Are you new to the world of Macross toy collecting or have a question that doesn't necessarily need a thread of it's own? Post it here and our resident Macross toy specialists will reply to you. Old thread: http://www.macrosswo...opic=11308&st=0 The initial one had answers that were so outdated, that first post is actually very funny. I'm going to try to dig thru that thread and link all relevant questions and answers here on the first post. First off... here's peolesdru's homepage at youtube which contains a lot of excellent transformation sequences you need for Macross Toys. http://www.macrosswo...showtopic=29393 Macrossworld's home page link to the toy section, for up to date stuff, you have to look thru the forums but the resource here is very invaluable: http://www.macrosswo...showtopic=28836 This is one of a few non discussion threads on MW, any comments not containing a scoop gets deleted after a few hours. LOCKED THREAD, PLEASE SEE FRONT PAGE FOR NEW SCOOPS CollectionDX's video reviews, search Macross for relevancy or find other toys there: http://www.macross2....ross-index.html MW = Macrossworld Valkyrie or "valks" = nickname for the transfoming jets most specifically used for the VF-1 but is an accepted term for any of its later successors (and the VF-0). CF = "Cannon Fodder"= refers to the brownie VFs that constantly get blown up in many episodes. FP = "Fast Packs" = external armor mounted on valkyrie, usually is exclusive to non atmospheric use. Fold Booster = additional equipment used by valkyries to jump from one space to another. Joke Machine = Bandai's Super Deformed versions of the Valkyrie HCM = High Complete Model, Bandai's original 1/72 version of the valkyries The Macross = The SDF-1 yammie = Nickname for Yamato Toys, most specifically a Yamato valkyrie chunky monkey = Nickname for the original Bandai/Takatoku 1/55 scale valkyrie what is a Joons? A popular bootleg version of the 1/55 what does GBP stand for? Grenade Box Protector, the heavily armored version of the VF-1 what's the difference between a super pack and a strike pack? The strike pack has a cannon attached to the right booster of the Fast Packs and was never seen in the TV series. What are TV hands? TV hands are the rounded version of the VF-1's hands, seen on the TV series and not in the movie (DYRL?) Also known as Mickey hands. What is DYRL?? Refers to the movie version Macross: Do You Remember Love? in which you see different versions of the valk flown by our heroes. There are also different versions of other mechas such as The Macross, The Quadleunn Rau and the Nousjadeul-Ger. Does Yamato or Bandai or any other Japanese manufacturers cater macross products to the US market? NO. Only japan. They WANTED to cater to us, but legality problems with Harmony Gold prevented them from doing so. Reference the HG debates thread for more info in the "other and science fiction" section. However OTHER non macross products from yamato are readily available in the USA. refer to this thread: http://www.macrosswo...p?showtopic=153 Do they offer parts for repairs? Still No... same reasons Why can't I find any news on the Alpha Fighter here? The Alpha Fighter was seen in the American series called Robotech, and was derived from Macross, Southern Cross and Mospeada (which is where you will see the Legioss (Alpha Fighter) and Robotech is considered an off topic subject as this is a Macross forum. refer to this thread: http://www.macrosswo...p?showtopic=228

Bandai Collector site announced Macross F fans rejoice! 2012年6月發售: DX超合金 Macross F VF-171EX(早乙女機) Visuals from Tamashii Web Small Battroid Mode Image

Just wanted to see what everyone's preferred Valks are for each of the three modes. I'll start: Fighter: YF-30 Chronos Gerwalk: Super VF-25G Battroid: VF-31C

Hey guys, i need some tips on how to clean chogokin figures effectively. Most important part in my collection are soul of chogokin, Super Robot Chogokin and saint seiya myth Cloth Ex figures, which obviously have metal parts on them. I have a few on display, this one collect dust that can be removed with a cloth, but on the chogokin figures (specially mazingers) i removed around 80% of dust, but some cant be removed that easily, or is in place hard to reach, like in the pic ill post. any tips and suggestions on this? Looks nice and clean right? wrong this stays like this on close inspection

I've been meaning to do a quick and dirty review of these guys for a while now and finally had time to take a few photos to go along with it. So without further delay, here's my introduction to the answer to the problem of the (otherwise) wonderful Bandai VF-171 toys. After seeing Macross Frontier, I was smitten by the new VF-171 and actually liked it even more than the VF-25 that was central to the story. Something about the lines, the colors, the shimmery way it often exploded... Sadly, a toy or even a model of this thing seemed to be nothing more than a pipe dream. There were model companies hinting at it (Experten, I believe) but we never saw anything real materialize. And then, out of the blue, Bandai announced the VF-171EX and there seemed to be hope! The "normal" version arrived a bit later but finally, we had a toy! I waited until after the armor parts were released before I jumped on the 171 bandwagon and really had no idea what I was getting myself into. Like most of you who own this toy, I was shocked to find out how terribly made some of the black parts were; like many here, my shoulder pieces had some serious issues. Look no further than this topic: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=37652&page=1 for similar stories. Broken shoulders, broken legs, broken internal pieces. This thing has grown into almost legendary status for how unreliable it is. But for most, the shoulders remain the real issue. Until now... Resident Macross World member Xigfrid provided the answer, in the form of a Shapeways produced part. He offers a few variations, which I'll describe in more detail shortly. But suffice to say, for those of you with broken shoulder triangles, there is now a solution! I purchased a few sets from him as a "just in case" measure. But also in the hopes of spreading the word about this little fix and hopefully providing other 171 owners with a means of enjoying their little green (and sometimes white) engineering marvels again. The parts I'll be showing you are the basic versions, printed in one solid color. Two types are offered, a "no triangle" version and a "with lower triangle" type. Click the links for a look at the Shapeways site for more details and to place your order. Xigfrid also offers a pre-printed logo version, where the NUNS logo and stripe are represented by two colors of printed plastic. I didn't opt for these because they were more expensive, the colors weren't "exactly" right, and I wanted to experiment with painting myself. I asked Xigfrid a lot of questions before ordering and this guy is a top bloke. Very helpful, very patient, and very easy to deal with. So, here's a look at what you get: The parts come printed as one "tree" with only the end bits anchored. Both left and right triangles are on the one tree. It's quite an impressive thing to see the inner parts just sort of hanging on the spindle down the middle and understand they were printed like this. The parts I chose were finished in "White, Strong & Flexible, Polished" material (WSFP). They're very strong, but there is some printing edges that are obvious when looking closely at the parts. The surface reminds me of velvet. You'll notice in the image above, there's a slight difference between the left and right parts, with the left side being the "without triangle" and the right one being "with lower triangle" type. The only difference is a notch cut into the bottom of one of the parts, for each side. I'll show why this is important a bit later. Here are some close ups: The parts assembly is very easy, and the only advice is to cut down on the post that attaches the two outer sides together. If you use it as is, the fit is a little too tight. Trimming a few mm off the end is advisable so the post doesn't bottom out in the hole. So, what exactly are we replacing? Here's an old picture I took of the part in question: And a typical shot of the damage one is likely to see when it breaks (if you can remove all the pieces without losing anything): Now, for some irony... I fixed this part with super glue a few years ago. I then promptly put it back in the box in disgust and didn't even look at it until I saw these new Shapeways parts were available. And when I did look, it was purely to figure out if I needed "with or without triangle" type parts. Imagine my surprise when I got the replacement part in, dismantled the part to do a test fit, and discovered the fix was still in place! And to make things even more surprising, the other seemed to be fine, with no signs of stress or breakage. Seems I got very lucky with my sample. Moving on, here's the lower triangle, so you can determine which type of part you should order: The thin, black, hinged in the middle thing in the bottom of the wing root. It's easy to forget about when going from any mode back to fighter and WILL be the thing that prevents you from popping the legs into fighter position, because you forgot to fold it back into position beforehand. Ask me how I know... See those little white lines coming from the pin? That's not hair, those are cracks. Both of mine have this but for now they're still intact. If yours are broken, you may do well to remove them entirely. They're held on by that screw through the teal colored piece, just next to the triangle in the above image. They don't really do much, and honestly, they're annoying. They never sit right, they're always in the way, and even if you do get them perfectly aligned, they look like they weren't designed to be the right shape to fill the gap they're there for. Here's what's behind the part when you swing it out of the way: That notch (notice the repair marks on my example) allows the pivot pin hinge in the triangle to sit up against the top triangle. If you don't have the bottom pivot triangle, don't get the replacement part for the "with triangle" type. It'll have a hole in it and it'll be noticeable. Instead, opt for the standard type. Simple. I haven't fit my parts because I didn't need to, as mentioned. But disassembly is fairly straight forward. You can pry the whole shoulder open and pop the arm out, followed by the triangle. If you're very careful, that is. Otherwise, there's a screw cover that will most likely be glued in, hiding a small screw that keeps the shoulder together. Removing this will allow the shoulder to come apart much easier. One side on mine was easy, the other was glued in so completely that I wasn't able to remove the screw. Your mileage may vary. Prep of the parts is up to the person doing the installation. But note that none of the parts are terribly smooth unless you opt for the much more expensive translucent material. And even then, sanding is recommended. I'd planned to prime, sand, smooth and then paint these things black. The intention for the NUNS lettering was to print a mask or maybe do some decals. Given my part is still OK, that's a decision I'll leave for somewhere down the track. Check out Xigfrid's store. He's got some great stuff on offer: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/xigfrid3dshop If a mod happens by this, mind adding that missing 'w' to the end of my topic title?