SchizophrenicMC

My body needs this. So hard.

I think your timing and phrasing went a bit amiss.

This is Bandai. A meter-long kit doesn't frighten them. HG Dendrobium Stamen, HG Neo Zeong.

On the note of all the hyperspace stuff, the parsec line is in reference to the Falcon's fast hyperspace velocity allowing it to run closer to gravity wells (mass shadows in hyperspace terminology) and its high powered navicomputer being able to plot routes that run at the bleeding edge of where the Falcon's drives can take it, allowing it to make a shorter journey across the Maw than most vessels. The standard Kessel Run circa 0BBY is 18pc, but there are recorded shorter runs, as well as historic longer routes. As well, ".5 past lightspeed" refers to the hyperdrive class. The "past lightspeed" part just means "in hyperspace". The ".5" part means "It falls in the .5 class" along a classification system in which faster ships have a lower numerical rating, and Imperial-class Star Destroyers are rated to 1, with Class-12 backup hyperdrives. Each increment is exponentially faster than the last as I recall, and so the Class .5 hyperdrive suite on the Falcon makes it significantly faster than nearly all ships in the galaxy. Coming back to JJ Abrams Strikes Back, I'm confident the spy shots aren't of the full-scale Falcon replica, but a dummy Falcon used for background and exterior shots. The full-scale replica is probably still in a sound stage with its far more expensive modeled interior.

Sucks for Kakizaki. Just like old times!

Less a workbench, more a driveway. Still, getting them dents out, hitting that primer. Regardless of whether I sell it, this car is gonna look good if it kills me.

See the Republic Commando series of novels by Karen Traviss. I don't much care for the author, but she does touch on retinal tracking and facial gestures for controlling the various helmet functions, several times in fact. (So much, so often, that I don't care for the author)

You're not going to have excellent visibility in any helmet. That's the tradeoff you get for head protection. They're just redesigning things for the sake of redesigning things. I don't like it. After the mess Abrams made of the Star Trek films he made, I'm not holding my breath for EpVII. I'll still go see it, and I'm sure that's what Disney is counting on, but there's absolutely no way this film is going to be the same epic that Lucas and 20th Century Fox made 37 years ago. And why did they have to kill the EU? Dammit, I liked those novels.

I've paid off my preorder, so I guess I'll be picking Destiny up on PS4 at midnight on Tuesday. If this game isn't as amazing as it reasonably seems it will be (I did have a lot of fun in the Alpha, though I missed the Beta due to work) then I'll have bought my PS4 for naught.

That's a lot of GMs. If you're not careful, I might start mistaking you for an American automaker.

One hopes.

If you're just a dude who likes to build cool stuff, and it's Macross-related, there's nothing HG or anybody can do to you. Even if you make a scratch copy of something licensed, as long as you don't sell it. If you're a dude or group of dudes who make Macross-related stuff and sell it without a license, you're technically violating copyright law. But I think copyright law is a bit ancient in its implementation. Why is foregone opportunity a right to be protected? If you choose not to make money on an idea or a product by not making that product, you're not losing any money when somebody else does. Where I agree with the law is when bootlegs of in-production products exist. If you're making a product, and somebody else copies that physical product and sells it (possibly at an undercut price) your own sales generally will drop, and you will lose money over what you should have been making at a given market demand. Copyright ought to serve to protect against the latter scenario, and not the former.

You can make anything you want, so long as you don't sell it.

No, because the 1/48 VF-1 is terrible, and nobody should have ever spent money on the original. ragglefragglestupid25thanniversaryvf1 With that said, I don't have any moral objection to reproduction of out-of-production items. If the original manufacturer has decided to cease producing something and don't want to attempt to generate any further profit, why shouldn't it be fair game? Whatever niche market demand remains will be filled, and either way the original manufacturer won't be making any money off of it. I, for one, am a big fan of aftermarket replicas of factory car parts that are hard to come by. The headlights I just bought for my Jeep, for example, made Chrysler no money at all, but they're just like they were brand new. What I do object to is low quality. Stupid Yamato fitment.

Sure, but Bandai is literally HG

Bandai is literally HG.

I'm not super super good at modeling, but it's easy to gloss over the basics when you're giving tips. Here's some stuff I've found works for me: The Good: Every acrylic and enamel paint I've ever worked with comes right off with an application of isopropyl alcohol, with hardly any need for anything else, and without damaging the plastic. Lacquers are more stable, though, and may not react the same. I even got year-old Tamiya Spray off a kit by letting the pieces soak in a bowl of it for about 10 minutes. On the other hand, oily enamel thinners (ie Testors) and lighter fluid (napthanol) will dissolve and clean up enamel, without affecting the finish of Tamiya acrylics. This is useful for applying washes, particularly panel line washes. I paint my kits with acrylics, then line with highly-thinned dark enamel, and clean up excess with a q-tip and lighter fluid. This is enough for most panel lines. Use primer, especially on kits that come molded in color. It helps to cut the toy-like finish of the plastic, and it evens out the color you'll be painting on, not to mention it's generally cheaper (check Vallejo where available) and it bonds to the plastic better than most paints will, and is very porous so your paint will stick better. It's an extra step, but well worth it in my opinion. Just bear in mind it's thicker than normal paint, even when thinned appropriately, and can clog your brush more easily. Master's line of compressors (available on TCP Global) are well-priced, quiet, and sturdy. I got a 2-piston 1/3 gallon 1/6hp compressor, with a brush, for $180. It's capable of holding a steady 60psi through a brush for an indefinite period. (Useful for blow-drying parts coming out of a soapy water wash, which is necessary when your workspace only has enough space for a bowl of soapy water and not tubs to wash whole runners. Also good for blowing off dust) At pressures more appropriate for painting, it fills up the tank quickly and maintains pressure without running constantly. It's quiet enough that I can listen to music or podcasts while I paint, no problem. They make single piston, tankless, dual, and quadruple piston compressors, and all of them come with a moisture trap and models equipped with tanks come with pressure regulators. The Bad: Master's line of airbrushes is, however, not so good. The G23 brush I got from them is cheap, in every sense of the word. I believe it had a $25 value, which isn't bad at all considering it's a full dual-action brush. But the seals are incredibly cheap and made of poor material, so they fall apart under the thinner in the paint, and even highly-thinned paint will clog the brush after the seals are worn in. As well, the needles are prone to bending under normal use, and the paintflow action inevitably develops so much slop that the sensitivity becomes similar to the sensitivity on the airflow action. On top of all this, the only place I've been able to find parts is TCP Global, which has relatively slow shipping times, and while the parts are cheap, you'll need to replace them often and shipping adds up. They're good starter brushes, in that they teach you how to use a dual action brush on the cheap, and you learn several methods to prevent clogging and tearing up your seals, but I don't even really recommend them as part of the brush-and-compressor sets that TCP Global sells. Spring for an Iwata or a Paasche or something. Only paint with good ventilation. It's been said over and over and over in this thread, but it's worth repeating. Paint thinners and cements are comprised of volatile organic compounds, which can and will ruin your day. 3M manufacture cartridge respirators in the $35 range, which come equipped with NIOSH-approved OV/P95 filter cartridges. I use these when I work with fiberglass and the highly-toxic urethane resin which the glass is used to reinforce. They're all I'll use for that. For painting and gluing, they also work well, especially when combined with airflow. My paintbooth is made from a rubbermaid bin and a used range hood fan. The total cost was around $20, including the dryer tube I bought to carry the paint fumes out the window. It works quite well. Model cement will ruin your paint. Where possible, glue, then paint. Where not possible, glue in places where running paint won't be visible. Bear in mind that joints with paint over them are usually less sound than bare plastic-to-plastic joints. The (Seemingly) Obvious: When a part has 2 or more different colors on it, paint the whole piece the lightest color, then mask off the spots that need to be that color, and move to the next lightest color, and so on. This is reversed when a flat metallic silver is the lightest color, in which case it should be last. Silver will cover black with less paint, than black will cover silver. Use clear coats. I like to use several. After I have a model's base colors painted and decals applied, I'll usually give it a gloss clear coat, then move onto details like panel washes and weathering. After that, I apply a clear coat of the desired finish. High gloss for cars, medium gloss (gloss coat with a small amount of flat base added to cut the sheen) for flashy Gundam kits, satin in rare cases, and flat on military applications (including anything from 08th MS Team). Clear coat protects your paint and gives the uniform finish you're probably looking for. The first clear coat protects the paint from accidental corrosion by various chemicals you may be working with, and leaves a uniform, easy to clean finish upon which to apply the final coat. Weathering is fun, but it's super easy to go overboard. Especially when dry-brushing silver. Remember that paint primarily wears off of edges, not faces. When weathering, come up with a scenario that has caused the weathering in question. A tank isn't likely to have scratches all over the top, and a mobile suit probably won't have lots of paint missing above a reasonable treeline. Aircraft weathering will almost never call for dry-brushing metal. All of that seems obvious, but it's painful how often I see people not following such basic advice and coming out with a kit where they went overboard with something or ruined the finish through a simple mistake. I've done it all myself.

brb getting a hammer

My body needs that Gerwalk.

This is the coolest thing on this forum since Dan's CGI VF-1.

I want to gerwalk this so hard.

I think it's bright blue, on purpose, to appeal to the Japanese audience who typically like vividly-colored mecha more than duller, more realistic colors. In which case, I have an airbrush, no big deal. Of course, if this is anything like the VF-1 releases, we'll get a bunch of color schemes in the form of re-releases, so maybe my hopes for an Angel Birds VF-0D aren't misplaced after all.

The red-orange mechanical detail on the back of the legs is too cool. I'm canceling David's preorder.

Well damn.

That's some real protoculture crap dawg. You just blew my mind