Omegablue

I can't find any images of this one? Can anyone help? Also just went through the pics of the various VF-4, VF-5000 and VF-17. They don't really look like hot-sellers in looks, but my tastes are fairly picky. LOL. As for the VF-17, the gerwalk mode is not very convincing... Damn, really wished Yammy had the Frontier license...

VF-0D would be the holy grail in most collections! And this time surely it will have no QC issues? Well, I'm a little disappointed that there is still no concrete rumours for anything Zentradi? A Regult would do good now with the V.2 1/60. But suspect to it in GN-U Dou form first. I wonder if the VF-2 from Macross 2 is on that short list?

That's a good point... Maybe releasing the original series all redone with the technology used in Frontier and Zero, might be needed to keep the franchise alive in the future?

Was looking at my V.1 VF-1J 1/60, and wondering if I should sell it to contribute towards the V2? But now I'm also wondering if their value has dropped, or will it increase as it probably less produced than the 1/48 and 1/60 v2? Damn, it's already 7 years since the V.1 1/60.

HLJ has bumped the release date of the VF-1J CF from June to May? http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00125 So I guess, it will be the last week of May?

Ditto

So we assume that the 1S Hiki is safe? I also read somewhere (Can't remember), that it has the knurling on the pins removed like the 1S Max? Can anyone confirm this?

I agree with everyone. VD-0A with fixes would be great, followed by the VF-1D then it's totally complete. And of course the armour set. Oh yes, and those cool Destroids with wheels. Yip, the gray colour schemes are the only way for the VF-0.

Well, I only noticed the 'Fountain of youth' thread an hour after posting this one. Sorry for missing it. But after going through it and the links provided, bleaching or the whole H020 process, is only a temporary process, and sometimes even accellerates the yellowing... Yip, so I guess until Yamato decide to make the parts painting with a anti-UV coating, automatic yellowing cloaking device is here with us all. As for living in the desert, I live in South Afirca, Joberg to be precise, almost 2km above sea level. And finding humidity here is like finding sun bathers in Alaska.

I nearly ordered the Max 1S, until I went through this thread and came across it has a black shield. I know it's correct in having it black, but I preferred blue, it balanced more the colour scheme. In my preference opinion.

Came across the following on the net. Whitening toothpaste removes yellowing. (Though I haven't tried it.) And that if the Valks had a coat of anti-UV, they wouldn't be affected at all. So now all we have to do, is convince Yamato of coating the Valks with anti-UV. You think they would do this for their fans?

It's the rough end area of the pins where the hinges have been breaking. It appears that this has been causing the stress leading to the breaks.

Do you keep it open in a smoking area with sunlight near it?

No hassle m0n5t3r. I don't mind a bit of surgery, and thanks. This is great advice.

LOL, only exotic when Irish women say it. From Italy, but living in South Africa now.

Obviously I know they will be released. But was merely hoping for some pictures of the M&M at this event.

In Europe, Africa, Australia and NZ, it's written with a 'u'. I think it's only in the US and Canada that it doesn't? Dunno why... LOL

... Gonna have to lock mine in a air tight vault.

Well, in my view, a shoulder piece can always be replaced. But when the whole valk goes yellow, that's pretty expensive in replacing the whole thing. Also shouldn't the quality of the plastic's colour also be a QC issue when selected before production?

This most of the time concerns me more than the QC of the shoulders? I'm sure most of us have suffered it with the v.1 1/60 and on some of the 1/48? But is the paint and white plastic of the v.2 appearing to last against yellowing? Likely victims, the VF-1J Hikki. Unlikely the 1S as I've just seen (And told earlier this week) that the plastic is actually a broken white (Light grey). Don't know about the 1A both TV and Movie? Preventions? Well from what I come across is the following. Do not keep your Valk exposed to an open smoking area. Nicotine sticks and stains. Avoid sunlight. Still my 1J 1/48 was kept in the box most of the time, in a dark shelf, and I'm not a smoker. Alas, yellowing got it... Anyone with tips and info on this delicate topic?

So, no Max & Millia 1J at the show...

K, anyone else know how to remove this knurling?

Your avatar says it all.

Please share how? Also, isn't there anyone here with the skills of remaking the piece and selling it as custom? Graham, I do have a question, what is the chance of Yamato sending the new pins to us?

Well I look at it like this. My V1 Vf-1J cost me $70 back in 2001. I whined that I wanted something better and would pay more money for it. My 1/48 was $120 in 2003. Loved it, but when I compared the 1/48 to the V2 VF-1, and considering how much I paid then, to the quality and finishing to what I'm paying now, yes, I'm fine with the price. But only with the V2 VF-1. The VF-0, SV-51, and VF-22 are overpriced considering their fragility and issues... (K, not alot of issues with the VF-22, but still why overpriced when it's still breakable plastic.) So it's a balance between the different lines. Then again prices are also determined by the shipping from the sizes and weight of a box. Now, lets look at other figures that I collect. I standard 8inch Good Smile Figure a years back use to be around $30 to $40... Most these days go for $80 to even $120!!! And lets be honest, the price 1/100 Vf-25 by Bandai, should be more of an issue.