recon

Hi Slaxed, could we have closeups on the 1/48 VF-1S Hikaru with Fps or any larger pictures of the GPB? Thanks Boy i do hope they will make the GPB armor for the VF-1J, anyways i will be getting the 1/48 VF-1J with Fps, slapped the Fps onto the VF-1S Roy, there you have an accurate VF-1S TV version. And my VF-1J will wait for its GPB armor hopefully. Cheers

Hi Wmcheng, you managed to do the decals for the intakes, awesome!! I heard its quite a tough and difficult decal to do due to its contours and shape. I was thinking of masking the intakes and spraying the yellow patterns. Please do give us your frank opinion as well as steps used in applying the decals for the intakes. Thanks

Hi Wmcheng, Thanks for the advice. Its sort of a relief for me especially when spraying big areas or small parts requires much stability as well as flexibility in movements.That reminds when i get to do my YF21 or YF19 to used a new pair of surgical gloves for each when doing the base coats, that way it sort of prevents me from getting finger prints on the body itself or parts even though the paint is totally dry. Cheers

Hi Wmcheng, As always a beautiful and outstanding job. Im thinking if i get to build my YF-21 would it be able to stand up to yours, the details and outstanding paint job. Well i guess not. Wmcheng, i have a question which apply to the current YF-21 and the previous YF-19 that you did. how do you manage to secure the whole model while spraying, im sure you arent holding it with your fingers, but any clamps or device used? Pictures would be much appreciated. Thanks Cheers

Toonz, you going to get one? Hmm are you going to paint it? by hand or airbrush? Cheers

Awesome job, GunnerX!! Im just about done on mine, just finishing the final decals application then onto semi clear gloss coat then assembly finish with a flat clear coat using Gunze products. No pictures available however, but maybe in the future i will post my collection of hasegawa models when i get my digi cam. Im too impressed with the pre-shading cos usually i suck at it, im more adapt at post shading so my hasegawa models i decided to do a clean paint job instead. Cheers

Chest size? let me go and size myself up first. Recon / ??? / 1pcs / Black / T / Short Recon / ??? / 1pcs / Navy Blue / T / Short Hey guys, a bit of bad news, there is a slight possibilty that i might not be able to make it due to work commitments and schedules, we will see about it when the time comes. Will keep you informed. I do still want the T-shirts if im unable to make it. Cheers

Hi devin, As always awesome decals/stickers design. Devin, can the red be darken cos they seem abit bright to me? How are the stickers quality, do they have a thin translucent background same as that of takatoys? Cheers

Hey drifand, Shucks i missed out on the release of the Smokescreen, have to wait till the next shipment in 2 weeks time. How much did you pay for it in singapore, which dealer did you got yours? Any photos to show? Cheers

If that is the last alternative, i would recommend Gunze Sangyo's TOPCOAT (Water Base) or Mr Hobby Clear Coat (Water base). But cons is pressure not constant, may indue splattering at low pressure. I would rather you get a modeller at any hobby shops which im sure that is plenty in Hong Kong using an airbrush to do a clear coat for ya. But bearing in mine the coat has to be water based not acryllic lacquer. Cheers

Woah, Wmcheng, that paint scheme is going to involve alot of masking work, from what i can see there are 3 to 4 different shades of tones and colors. For you im sure it aint a problem. Cheers

Scenes

opps double post sorry

Some pictures of destroids

Somemore sketches

Hi there, Was browsing around and came across some sketches done that portrays the scenes in the upcoming Episode 3 of M0. Meanwhile do enjoy. Featured also are some pictures of the destroids design in Ep 3. Cheers

You can say that again, Thats why i always follow on his leads cos of his vast experience and knowledge in regards to modelling. Cheers

It seems that the modeller who did YF-21 at Starship Modeller experienced quite a number of problems in regards to joints and decal. Hopefully Wmcheng would be able to provide an easier and alternative solution to that of his. Seems that the YF-21 although seems easier to build but poses a number of complicated issues than its counterpart the YF-19. Hope someone does a PDF of Wmcheng buildup. Hey Wmcheng, maybe you should consider doing the canopy in the lifted position exposing the details of the cockpit. Cheers

Hi Wmcheng, Thanks for the advice! Im not too comfortable with applying an untested clearcoat on an expensive toy, so i was contemplating on just doing panel wash and decal application. Maybe i would try to locate a ModelMaster Clear acryllics here or test try a clear coat on the missles provided first. Devin did mentioned that even without doing a clear coat to seal in the decals and panel wash, they are still pretty durable. Ultimately i wish to apply a thin layer of clear coat to protect the decals as well as the basic mold of the valk from yellowing due to environment reasons or handling issues. another question for ya, you mentioned about using elmer glue to secure the missles in place in the Fps, i was wondering if i could use Tamiya liquid cement instead? Wmcheng could we have pictures of it in battroid or gerwalk? Thanks

Too nervous? Come on im sure they will be much tougher than the regular decals if not as tough as stickers but take a little trouble and time to apply.

Hi Wmcheng, Of course its not the thickness of the paints but its the width of the panel lines in a range of 1mm to 2mm, usually i mixed the paint/thinner in a 1:4 ratio with psi set in the range of about 10 to 15 PSI. It set in this range due to the dilute nature of the paint/thinner mixture. The paints i used are Gunze Sanyo Acryllic lacquer based paints, which offer a finer spray pattern so far i havent see any splattering effect but enables the airbrush to be as close to the model as possible. In addition, this kind of pre-shading method sort of resembles that of the gundam , as i did gundam models before, not sure wether it works well with valks or planes. Im not too sure about Tamiya paints maybe due to its nature requires different PSI settings and paint thinner mixture. Considering that i live in a hot and humid climate, maybe this setting differs from others living in a colder or wet climate. The models that i did pre-shading on so far are G kits Anime figurines. So far i havent attempted any on my hasegawas as i dun wish to ruin them adding to that i dun really have a stable hand or the availablity of model master acryllics clear coats in the local stores here. Thanks for asking, its always a pleasure to exchange information pertaining to modelling here. Cheers

Hey toonz, I would be ordering some of these 1/48 waterslide decals from DEvin. You interested in some? Cheers

Hiya Wmcheng, Beautiful and Awesome work!!. I was thinking of doing the same when i get my decals from Devin. The clear coat not only protects the decal but also the plastic mold especially for us folks living in hot and humid countries where white turns yellowish in time. Just a question for ya, issit possible to just do decal and panel lining without having to spray a clear coat over them when its finished as im not so sure a lacquer based acryllic clear coat would ruin the paint job of the valk itself? (Rephrased question) If i really do must spray a clear coat, do i have to mask any sections, especially the canopy area? And whats the thinner/paint ratio you used for clear coating your 1/48, issit different from the regular mixture you used to clear coat your models? For devin: Will the waterslide decals after application stand to up handling without peeling off like regular stickers? Devin please put me up for a couple of these at the end of the year when you ready for the next batch of production, not forgetting the 1/72 Blueroses custom decals i requested. Thanks for your help and assistance. Cheers

Hi Grayson, I not so sure about the psi level that Wmcheng uses when panel shading but for me the psi level is set to 10 to 15 (Sorry remembered settings wrongly), this enables airbrush to approach the model surface relatvely near thus producing a 1 to 2mm thickness when sprayed on. Tamiya clear smoke isnt a bad choice for panel shading, but its more for creating a see though effect. Usually i would go for a more subtle approach as i i would take my base coat white darken it with one or two drops of black and thinned down to produce a very light grey for panel shading. Cheers

I vote for this too A Blueroses VF-1S would be my number one choice followed by a Minmey Guard as mentioned by Graham. Hey Graham issit possible you propose to Yamato a special edition 1/48 VF-1S for the upcoming annivesary. Thanks Cheers