m0n5t3r

just throwing this out there... i'm just wondering, what people's opinions are on this so-called "collector's value" of their toys? is this appropriate only for MISB collections? what of collectors who open their toys and have no plans on selling any of their stuff for whatever reason? do people really constantly think about the value of their collection as if they're going to sell it the next day? i do admit to doing this a good while back, but i always remember somebody who said that it doesn't feel like a hobby (w/c is supposed to be fun) when you always think about what you've spent and what the value of your collection currently is... 2¢

this is the best i could do... the left hand can't really reach the underside of the gunpod when pointed straight forward and if you point the gunpod to the left the strike cannon can't point in the same direction (i wish they made the Stike cannon so it could swiver l-r...)

http://www.new-un-spacy.com/macross7/vf-1a-whalehunter.htm

nope... Hik 1S pins still have the knurling... so does the 1D.

there was already a fixed re-issue of the 0S last dec.... +1 on the fixed re-issue of the 0A... the Shin Kudo one w/ the white stripes... and i don't care if it's a standalone w/o the ghost pack...

yep, got me one last year... no crooked gunpod, properly canted rear landing gears... the standalone 19 plus the FPs only cost me less than $150. although it is floppy mid-transformation, it does hold reasonably well in all three modes... not nearly as tight as my YF-21, but good enough to be displayed on a flexy (gotta angle it downwards though in f-mode to hide that gullet ).

LOL, so you got swayed by the vote! congrats... i absolutely love my 1D and it's color/s... although, personally, i would display the 1D in fighter or gerwalk and the Hik 1S in fully-decked Battroid...

if you don't mind me asking, how're those replacement hinges? last i heard was somebody got em and they cracked too... seems like these replacement hinges are as susceptible to cracking as the one's on a lot of Fockers, some Hik 1As and a few 1Js. on topic - i'm down to just getting the re-issue 25F (from planning to get all four ). like some, i do want to have something from MacF. hopefully this will tide me over until Bandai releases a better version or when Yamato gets a crack at it.

news of these RD Side LFO figures have been out for quite some time, although it was posted on the Gundam Figure thread. the TypeEND is due out this month and the Spec2 next month... here's a link to a proto of the RD Devilfish that was shown at the Tamashii Nation show - RD Devilfish here's a link to the RD releases - http://tamashii.jp/special/robot_damashii/lineup/index.php

LOL, it almost seems like you're happy about the yellowing. ... not too many people here would put a smiling smiley after saying their valk is starting to yellow... cool

cool... when i did this mod, it really gave me some peace of mind... not having to support the hinge while veeerrrry gingerly posing and/or moving the arms during transformation... now i can be as rough as i can w/ my v.2 VF-1's w/out having to worry about something breaking... but still, bad Yamato...

v.2 1/60 1J or 1/48 1J??? well, both my v.2 1J and 1/48 1J are still fine... no discoloration so far that i've noticed...

awesome pics! love the 11B battroid pose and the weathered 21 fighter mode...

sorry man, i thought you weren't serious w/ the smiley. first i removed the shoulder hinge by disassembling the backplate of the valk. remove the 3 screws - 2 for the wings, 1 for the swingbar. backplate not glued together. unscrew off the shoulder hinge. remove the whole arm assembly by removing the shoulder armor and loosening the 2 screws that were previously covered. i dipped the area of the hinge where the pin is in some oil/lubricant (btw, i removed the pin from uncracked hinges. if it's already cracked, the pin might come out even w/out the oil)... i used the smallest pointy precision screwdriver i could find to push out the pin, fat end out first. i found that the easiest way to hold the hinge is to open it up and hold one piece/side of the hinge with your thumb and middle finger and use your index finger to counteract the force from the screwdriver pushing the pin out. after i removed the pin, i sanded down the knurling... i remember somebody posted that they used a dremel... i just used cheap sandpaper. the hardest part is pushing out the pin... just make sure its well lubricated and the oil has had the chance to seep into the pin. after the first one, i found it relatively easy to push the pin out of the other hinges that i did. good luck... though i've found that there are a lot of people who are uncomfortable doing surgery or even simply disassembling their $100+ toys...

how do you distinguish the 1st issue 25F from the re-issue? how're the stores' stocks of the re-issue? i'm really praying that there would be some left by the time i go there next mo.

it was just so obvious that he was gonna die... if not this ep., maybe the next and so on... and i figured it was bound to happen soon so as to motivate Kouji to kick ass... also to become a factor in Kouji walking the fine line between becoming a god or a devil... Shiro's tears were more than enough...

finally found time to watch ep 5... cool, Groizer x-10 sighting... Garada turned into dust and Doublas got fried ...

thanks for the heads up... was planning to get a few of these... well, not anymore.

thanks for that Gamu Toys link... great pics! absolutely love that VF-11B+YF-21 pic that miriya posted...

i think removing the knurling might do the trick... i removed the knurling part on all the shoulder hinge pins of my v.2 valks (except the 1D) and they are all still fine. one drawback might be that the swiveling motion of the hinge might be a little loose coz the pin isn't fastened to the plastic anymore. the smooth part of the hinge pin is a nice exact fit for the hole/s on the two pieces of plastic that make up the hinge, no chance of it slipping out on its own. it's pretty obvious that the stress that's causing the breakages is due to the fat end of the pin esp. when its forced in. but yeah, i was expecting that they would change to a smaller diameter pin and also make the hole smaller. does making that hole (where the pin is inserted) smaller require re-tooling??? if it does, i guess that's the reason for Yamato's shortcut solution...

side covers look good on the new 1/60!

+1 on the Photography thread (for tips, not discussion...) congrats on the new cam, man... i'd like to see that "Legend of Hikaru" shot you're planning... anyway to get back on topic, here's my Hikaru valks shot i posted in the Hikaru v.2 thread... still w/ the same old crappy cam (damn wife is flip-flopping on the cam purchase )

yep, me too. i keep all the intake covers on coz i'm turned off by the fanblade's shallow and unrealistic look.

sorry to hear that happen to your 1A... you can check honkhet's post above about putting some glue to fix it... it can be fixed and it seems transformation and poseabilty are not affected. personally, i would sand the fat end of the pin first, but seems it can be fixed even if you don't... good luck fixing it, pre. and BTW, in case you haven't heard yet, Yamato changed the pin for the shoulder hinge to a smaller diameter one starting with the Max 1S and 1A...

some more pics from TD... there's a couple w/ the intake covers removed... one in f-mode w/ Super Pack + tailfins raised... another shows the metal shoulder joint... http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/thread-94240-1-1.html