m0n5t3r

@GU-11 - i thing the OP would have preferred that you were the one punked (by his pic)......... not him.

AmiAmi half-off shipping extended... again.

haha, for 2k i'd want it to transform by itself via remote plus additional buttons for moving the main cannons into firing position etc. etc.

haha, the MacQ looks like it's looking up while humping the floor! :lol:

haha, no kidding... 10+ pics on step-by-step procedure on how to open the box! where are the pics of the shoulder hinges???

i managed to tighten the hips by tightening the screw at the back of the hip/intake block. haven't tried removing the screw so i don't know if the 2 halves are glued together or not... as for the elbows, there's also a screw for tightening it up but it sorta can get loose again when you start moving the elbow joints again too much.

another reason why these things should have been made so it can easily be disassembled so you'd have the option to take it apart and paint the diecast parts. oh well... ...images of drifand's mutilated DX Alto suddenly came to mind... lol

another possible culprit is that mold release agent/oil residue that's ever present on these DXs. since the hip joints on these are bare metal (whereas Yamato's are painted, albeit crappily), some of that oil residue could be the reason why the joints are losing friction even when they're not being played with...

perfectly right... and even for other toys/figures if you move the appendages, like, 1000 times back and forth the joints will naturally become loose... but the thing i was trying to get at was that i wish Bandai had made these (at the very least) easy to disassemble so you could get to those joint and "repair" them if you wanted to.

to be perfectly fair, the same thing happened to the hips of my play and abuse v.2 1S Focker... to the point where i swing the valk and the legs swing like a pendulum... but yeah, easily remedied by removing the whole leg assembly and either tightening the screw of the 2-piece block covering the metal balljoint or disassembling it and filling it w/ something... and from experience clear nailpolish (at least the one that i have) doesn't work too well on metal parts/joints.

my DX Alto has been in battroid kabuki pose w/ SPs displayed on the stand for the last three months. no problems w/ the arms but i can see that it's easily possible for the hip joints to become really loose/floppy. mine can still hold it's pose even when i tilt the whole thing back or forward but a little push on the legs will definitely change the position of the whole leg/thigh assembly at the hip joint. the hip joint/block on Yammies are pretty easy to disassemble and tighten... anybody here tried to tighten or disassemble their DX to apply nailpolish on the hip balljoint?

thanks for the pics and confirmation of the color... might get tempted to get one while i'm there in a couple weeks time .

any reviews? eager to see if the valk is white or has that light blue tint. EDIT - still can't find any reviews or even out-of-the-box pics... but based on the color of the wing boosters in this pic, the 25F should have a matching white color.

speaking of "the yammie's weird neck thing"... is it just me or does the heatshield seem a bit long and the gap from the chest to the intakes bigger???

awesome huge scans! OT - love that SMS jacket on page 29.

so i decided to do some cleaning... when i noticed some yellow spots on my 1/60 v2 VF-1S's that have been untouched and on display for a long while now... mostly on the arms (the panels for hiding the hands), the shoulder plate area beside the head and on some other white plastic parts. i thought damn(!), yellowing this early?!?! i tried rubbing them off with a dry cloth and couldn't remove them, so i tried with a bit of water. was i ever glad it came off and the plastic was whitey clean again. i'm not sure where these yellow stains are coming from, but yeah, they can be easily cleaned off and the stain just transfers onto the damp cloth.

hehe, i think the 50% also applies to the shoulder hinges for the Super 1J set, if you know what i mean...

the standalone VF-1J, standalone GBP and VF-1J+GBP set will all be re-issued late May (proly early to mid June) - http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...st&p=838878 with the scolding that Graham put on the Yamato dudes about the 1st release 1J+GBP set fiasco, it's highly likely that the re-issue 1Js will be fixed... but i'm still hoping they'll do one better by upgrading the crotch attachment thingy for this next batch.

just saw this while surfing - DX VF-25F Tornado w/ Ranka poster from Amiami

not a Gundam fig. but it's kind of an offshoot of the GFF/GFFN line ???... Composite Ver. Ka Lancelot Albion now i'd like to see the Composite Ver. Ka Gurren Lagann.

just saw this on Toysdaily - Re-sale/re-issue of 1/60 VF-1J Hik standalone and with GBP bundle. May 2010. hope it's true and i also hope that these 1Js will be newly produced w/out any pin issues and new crotch attachment system. (maybe Graham can shed some light on this ). EDIT - guess it's real... Amiami just put up their pre-orders for these.

just guessing here... but if this will be like the GFF/GFFNs, since they're about the same size, the details on this figure will be top notch, accessories galore and will probably come w/ a display stand but poseability will be so-so. an expensive (for it's size), very nice looking and detailed display piece. and since it's labeled as a Ver. Ka... even just from the promo picture, it will definitely have some differences compared to what GL looks like in the anime.

haha... i would wear cotton gloves and then use any of the following things - a microfiber wipe cloth, 2 sizes makeup brushes - one larger and the other much finer for those hard to reach areas like the inner neck, elbows, knee joints etc... something like this.

so the cat's finally out of the bag! it's gonna take awhile for me to get used to calling these "flightpose" stands...

"ouch!" - VF-1 you need to slide off the shoulder cover and loosen the 2 shoulder screws.