m0n5t3r

i think Bandai knew that the hinges that connect the chest to the shoulder plates and then to the backplate would be prone to breaking w/ the Armor on since they included (out of nowhere) those black plastic supports for Gerwalk mode... coz in gerwalk that backplate pretty much just hangs there... that's exactly what i had in mind for my 2 DXs ... i still do like how they look when they're just on display.

my nora would beg to differ... it's not broken but that square plastic part that's part of the wing's transformation, the one that i believe is connected to the small metal part, has some visible stress marks, and i've only ever transformed it to gerwalk a couple of times. EDIT - and about that small metal part on the SV-51... i would venture a guess that Yamato initially tried using plastic but realized it would break, so the final product ended up having that tiny metal part/hinge surrounded by all that plastic.

i still think all the moving parts, hinges and such are prone to breaking on the VF-25's general design and transformation IF made with plastic... but that's just my personal opinion. and most of the things you listed down are aesthetic improvements... sure these things matter, but a toy not breaking matters more... at least to me.

IMHO, in still goes back to his design. AFAIK, the 1/72 model kit has the same problems w/ the moving parts that facilitate the VF-25's transformation (and, yes i know that model kits are more fragile than ready-made toys). but yeah, in his own personal universe the Messiahs are not made of plastic... (*** time for the "use diecast" guys to chime in... )

clearly people here on both sides suffer from tunnel vision. as for me, i hate 'em both for making me buy stuff i don't need that i occasionally need to ask a replacement for, tweak or apply superglue to plastic... ... i have needed some serious therapy from all the stress that they've put me through! but they both do make me happy from time to time...

just got my Q-Rare Pixie... it's darker gray than in the promo pics... and i like it. sorry no cam right now and too busy to open it up... it's really nice.

bump from the dead. i've been holding off on buying any Macross toys for a long while now... so i decided to get the VF-X2 VF-11B and VF19A and for $8 apiece you definitely can't go wrong... plus i really like the color scheme for these two that i wouldn't mind it if Yamato decided to make repaints of these in 1/60 scale. no time to take them out of the box yet, just admired the crisp paintjob/paint-scheme from inside the box.

@GU-11 - i thing the OP would have preferred that you were the one punked (by his pic)......... not him.

AmiAmi half-off shipping extended... again.

haha, for 2k i'd want it to transform by itself via remote plus additional buttons for moving the main cannons into firing position etc. etc.

haha, the MacQ looks like it's looking up while humping the floor! :lol:

haha, no kidding... 10+ pics on step-by-step procedure on how to open the box! where are the pics of the shoulder hinges???

i managed to tighten the hips by tightening the screw at the back of the hip/intake block. haven't tried removing the screw so i don't know if the 2 halves are glued together or not... as for the elbows, there's also a screw for tightening it up but it sorta can get loose again when you start moving the elbow joints again too much.

another reason why these things should have been made so it can easily be disassembled so you'd have the option to take it apart and paint the diecast parts. oh well... ...images of drifand's mutilated DX Alto suddenly came to mind... lol

another possible culprit is that mold release agent/oil residue that's ever present on these DXs. since the hip joints on these are bare metal (whereas Yamato's are painted, albeit crappily), some of that oil residue could be the reason why the joints are losing friction even when they're not being played with...

perfectly right... and even for other toys/figures if you move the appendages, like, 1000 times back and forth the joints will naturally become loose... but the thing i was trying to get at was that i wish Bandai had made these (at the very least) easy to disassemble so you could get to those joint and "repair" them if you wanted to.

to be perfectly fair, the same thing happened to the hips of my play and abuse v.2 1S Focker... to the point where i swing the valk and the legs swing like a pendulum... but yeah, easily remedied by removing the whole leg assembly and either tightening the screw of the 2-piece block covering the metal balljoint or disassembling it and filling it w/ something... and from experience clear nailpolish (at least the one that i have) doesn't work too well on metal parts/joints.

my DX Alto has been in battroid kabuki pose w/ SPs displayed on the stand for the last three months. no problems w/ the arms but i can see that it's easily possible for the hip joints to become really loose/floppy. mine can still hold it's pose even when i tilt the whole thing back or forward but a little push on the legs will definitely change the position of the whole leg/thigh assembly at the hip joint. the hip joint/block on Yammies are pretty easy to disassemble and tighten... anybody here tried to tighten or disassemble their DX to apply nailpolish on the hip balljoint?

thanks for the pics and confirmation of the color... might get tempted to get one while i'm there in a couple weeks time .

any reviews? eager to see if the valk is white or has that light blue tint. EDIT - still can't find any reviews or even out-of-the-box pics... but based on the color of the wing boosters in this pic, the 25F should have a matching white color.

speaking of "the yammie's weird neck thing"... is it just me or does the heatshield seem a bit long and the gap from the chest to the intakes bigger???

awesome huge scans! OT - love that SMS jacket on page 29.

so i decided to do some cleaning... when i noticed some yellow spots on my 1/60 v2 VF-1S's that have been untouched and on display for a long while now... mostly on the arms (the panels for hiding the hands), the shoulder plate area beside the head and on some other white plastic parts. i thought damn(!), yellowing this early?!?! i tried rubbing them off with a dry cloth and couldn't remove them, so i tried with a bit of water. was i ever glad it came off and the plastic was whitey clean again. i'm not sure where these yellow stains are coming from, but yeah, they can be easily cleaned off and the stain just transfers onto the damp cloth.

hehe, i think the 50% also applies to the shoulder hinges for the Super 1J set, if you know what i mean...