Gundamhead

If you line up your parts, then marker a small line across each seam to each half in 4 spots, when you remove the parts, use a ruler to 'X' the four lines on each part on the side to be joined. It will give you a center to drill on each part for a pin. If you did it correct, your parts will line right up with the pin.

What I wanna know is why a animated film is always seen as 'it'd be great as live action'. What's wrong with the animation? I prefer the animation over any live versions. It is it's own medium. Michealangelo looks soooo much better on film than in person... Then we get the 'Oh animation is coming so close to looking real' crowd. Polar Express? They're creepy looking animated people. Oh that scantily clad model would look soooo much better on glossy paper and digitized than in real life... I guess this makes me a purist huh?

The Monkey booster project is an original cast. It is not a recast. There is a difference. Did you talk to them about not being satisfied and maybe getting a replacement part?

I gotta go with the FSS Bang Doll, but then the plain old Zaku noggin is pretty cool too.

Nice looking model. I like the bombs. I might 'borrow' that idea for mine.

Has anybody tried the joystick/throttle package? Is it worth it?

Wow, that's a lot of stuff to fit on one sheet. I could do it, but I don't know how many people would buy it. Let me think about it. Wow, that's cool. Before you went ahead a made a sheet like that you could post a 'Who'd be interested thread'. That way you'd get a better idea if they'd sell well enough for you. I think they should, but I can't speak for others. I'd still take 2.

Nice looking decals there. Have you ever considered doing a generic sheet? I'd buy 2. Lotsa sized U.N. SPACY, U. N. NAVY, U.N. MARINE, U.N. AIRFORCE, U.N ARMY, U.N. RESERVES in white, black, yellow, red, and grey. Lotsa fighting kites in various sizes? Maybe a few with the white and red reversed for the U.N. Ground stuff like the Destroids? A few grey? Lotsa sizes! Buncha numbers in black, white, yellow, red, and grey? A few 'VF'? A couple Destroid plaques? Torch and hammer logo? A bunch of warnings? 'No step', Beware exhaust, etc... Buncha pilot names? PILOT: WARMAKER, KAKIZAKI GENIUS, generic letters for your own name? Buncha carrier names? ARMD-01,-02,03, Daedalus Prometheus, SDF-1-2 some made up... I'm forever scrounging for useable UN SPacy and fighting kite logos. A big full 8x11 generic sheet would be awesome to people customizing, or making their own stuff. Especially in 1/100 and 1/72. A few odd sizes for ground vehicles, man that'd be sweet.

He just has given them aweek to pay, or they get re-offered.

Man, pictures like this are gonna make me break down and buy the 0 kits. My poor wallet. NIce work there. I like the scheme.

You guys know how fragile that thing would be right? Not mention the scrapes and damage the paint would get from a transformation or two? Personally, I'd much rather have kits of the 3 forms.

A little OT, but what does 'EMINENCE' micro missiles stand for? OR is it just the missile names?

Just so you know, the phrase "Not for sale outside of Japan." is because of bootlegging, not a supriority complex, and they usually have a license for the kit.

OK, here's the newest pics so far. A little better in pic quality. It's in rough primer and a quick wash to try and get the detail to show. I'm guessing this isn't a very sought after kit? http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p...12296&members=1

Scribe scribe scribe.

It is quite grey. That's where you gotta use your own sense of fairness to the original, and to the fans. You also have to remember that not everybody is gonna have that same sense of fairness.

Thanks Ido. I've been going by the line art, and it's very different from Hasagaw's VF-1D. I actually do not like Hasagawa's VF-1D fighter compared to the old kits. I like the shape of the nosecone, but not the canopy. I don't like the tiny 4 chest vents compared to the larger old style. You stare too long at something, and you lose perspective. I'm big on trying to keep conversions simple, so I didn't lengthen the heatshield, I just altered it. No fuss or muss in replacing the standard shield in the battroid kit. (Otherwise you'd have to do some surgery on the nose cone, and it really ain't worth it cause it's hidden.) I made it look longer by shortening the fuselage hump. You can't tell unless you disassemble it. I'll try to get newer pics soon.

It is bootlegging, no matter how politely you say 'recast'. You'll have to work that out with your own set of morals. Generally it's accepted that if the kit is no longer around, and the originator has no plans to offer it again, it's fair game. 1. Molds are difficult to make, and expensive. Add to the fact that it is useable for only a few kits, and the profit drops. If it's gonna cost you a hundred bucks for a mold and you only sell 5 kits at $20.00 before your mold gives out and you have to replace or repair it, you're not gonna make a big profit. Can you be sure you're gonna sell enough to cover cost? 2. The reason so many are based in Asia is they can get past piracy laws. 3. Well some charge around $40.00 per hour. Some charge by subject. None are really cheap. Sound pricey? Not really. How much do you make an hour? Add in material cost, add in skill, add in equipment. A point to consider when you make an original kit available, is that somebody can buy one and 'recast' it right from under you offering it cheaper than you because they didn't have to pay the original modeler. As an example, whats to stop me from buying Monkey's Booster, recasting it, and selling it cheaper than the $100.00 they asked for it? Now what if it was an original you made and offered? If your not into for making gobs of cash, you'll try to keep it fan based like here. However, there are gonna be those that just buy them to re-sell them at a higher price. It's already happened here, and it will still. So all the work you put into to recasting for the fans just went to some guy trying to make a buck instead of building the kit.

Not to try to divert from Macross World, but if you spend some time at Starship Modeler, there's a couple giga tons of info on building, converting and scratchbuilds. Your question is pretty open ended, but my most valuable tools for scratchbuilding are my X-acto, razor saw, steel ruler, files, and crazy glue. There's a ton more, but those are the primary. My favorite material is sheet styrene, but I use literally everything, and anything to 'make it work'. Getting things symetrical is the old rule, measure twice cut once. Of course that sounds great, but the fact is putty and crazy glue are great to have just in case your measuring is wrong twice.

I've been cutting and carving up some of my old Imai Macross kits to make the chest and head, and modifying parts of the Hasagawa. Carve, glue, putty, scribe, no that ain't it, saw, carve, cut, sand, putty, scribe... It's quite a neat little Frankenstein project. Lessee... 1/72 Gerwalk VF-1D, Variable VF-1D, and of course the Hasagawa Battroid.

Well here's some pics so far. No primer, partailly sanded. But at least it's something to look at. http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p...12296&members=1

I've had the chance to play a little. Last time I got to play, I did the 1/72 Spider Bug. As I was posting pics of it ready for painting, people requested that I offer it as a kit. I said sure, then sent it off, but never got to finish it for myself. Soooo, this time before I psyche up to finish a model, I figured I'd ask. I've been converting a 1/72 Hasagawa VF-1-A-J-S Battroid into a VF-1D Battroid. As you may or may not know, Hasagawa never offered the VF-1D as a Battroid. Anyhoo, it's something I wanted for me. Right now, I'm letting some parts dry, and figured I'd ask. This is one of those, 'I'm not sure if there'd be interest' kinda conversions. You would need a 1/72 Hasagawa Battroid. This conversion would be about 6-7 parts that would replace parts on the Hasagawa. (Namely head, chest, and back) There's not a whole lot to see yet, cause it's just parts and I'm still scribing some detail. So there's no pics yet. I wanted to gauge interest before I finish, or set it up to be cast. Later, Joe

Sithlord, you can make this guy yourself easily. Buy a 1/48 Orguss variable use some of it's parts on a 1/72 Super and stick on a 1/72 VF-1A head. Then paint him up. That's it.

Love it or hate it, just greed. There's a big discussion in the auction forum. There are no lies in the info that I'm aware of.

You don't always need primer on plastic, but it's a good idea for resin most of the time.