Gundamhead

1. Wash the parts in warm soapy water. Use a detergent type soap. 2. Cut the pour stubs with a razor saw or file them down. Wear a dust mask. 3. Crazy glue is resins most used glue. Test fit before you glue. The CA will bond instantly to resin most of the time. Epoxy is used for very heavy parts. 4. Use any putty you're comfortable with. None of the hobby putties will harm resin. Wet sand, it helps save your lungs and gives a better finish. 5. Sand slow. Resin is tough, yet soft. If you sand vigourously, you'll obliterate any fine detail. 6. Primer with a good quality primer. Spend the $9.00 for a can of Tamiya fine white primer. It's much better than a $3.00 can of brand x on sale at Home Depot. Other than that, there's no real difference between building a injection kit, wood kit, or resin kit. Build it well, fill and sand the seams well, and paint it well. Have fun doing it!

Mr. Cheng, You have completely taken our kit and built it in the spirit it was intended. You seemed to have fun while inspiring others. It really helps make the effort worthwhile, and helps keep the hobby alive and well. Amazing craftsmanship, I hope I am able to do my own as well. And yes, please do post some completed shots with a nice neutral background. sincerely and thank you, Joe Belding

In this pic, your fix looks to be pretty straight forward. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...e=post&id=27480 Carefully break the signals free from the elbow and remount it to the opposite side of the signal. The two vertical antenaes would be on the outside, and the signals would mount to the same spot on the single antenae side. That would turn the signals 180 degrees, putting them right, and not changing your elbows orientaion. The onlt clean up you'd need to do is the tiny glue spec on the signals where it had been mounted wrong.

Actually, the real Jolly Rogers is different by a noticable bit through the years.

The only problem I can see in your magnet plans guys is the VF itself. The tail pack to VF connection is very weak. A small shallow oval peg and two tiny hinges would be all that supports the VF. It's pretty fragile on the Hasagawa. I'd be afraid of one day looking to see only the booster and tail attached to the arm while the rest of the VF was in ruin on the floor. That's why I recomend the pin. It lances the VF, tail pack, umbilical, and the claw.

Great reference pics. I really didn't know what to say about a paint scheme, so I hoped people would try and figure it out on their own. I figure the tiny decals ARMD-01, SDF-1, could get stuck someplace on the base to give the idea that it's a hangar on one of those ships. I'll try to get a couple pics of mine partially assembled later for you people.

If you're looking to keep the top edge, you could sand down the top of the thick part just a tiny bit.

Jesse did it. Don't ask me how the heck he did that. That was actualy supposed to be glued down on the master...

I did that too, but on the plus side, it makes a strong joint.

Nice fix. Mine was actually a bit thin too, but I did the CA + baby powder thing for my fix. Yours might be easier.

This is a excellent example of the right way.

OOps.

Gundam parts?! On my creations? Quiet you fool! They might hear! In the Star Wars model circles, your 'gak' is known as 'greeblies'. To others it's 'junk', 'optional stuff', 'doodads', etc... Gundam has a plethora for greeblies and gak.

Again, that rod does get hidden by the connector. WHOA! Isn't that a bit overkill - its like killing a flea with a hammer! Firstly, lets look at where the brass rod is exposed. Its fairly linear and parallel with the lenghways of the signal stand. Additionally, if you look at the signal stand or any of the arm pieces, there are plenty of "tube-like" umblical details that also run lengthwise. Lastly, there are no "canon" line art that truely discribes each and every pipe and umblical that run along the arms - so we are allowed to interpret (as long as its within reason). I would suggest cleaning any remaining resin attached hap-hazardly onto the exposed brass rod - making it exposed properly. Use the brass rod as part of the details running up and down the signal stand. Additionally add a few pipe or wires along side of it - especially where it will connect to the next piece. I guarantee you that by the time its painted - you can't tell which one was the brass rod and which ones are the surface detail umblicals that run up and down the arm. Remember there are always alternatives to making any mistakes better it just depends on the time you have and whether its worth it to you or not. 341381[/snapback]

It's acceptable when you see how the parts are supposed to go together. The seam is a bit bad, but it's only about 10 minutes with a file to fix. It's quite a small area in real life. And you can actually sand brass rod to shape fairly easy, but it gets covered by a connector anyway. No rod removal required, honest. The rods and connector are only to prevent sagging and warping on the signal arm. Especially for the adventurous who might wall mount this kit. the arms rods and pins however do play a pretty important role in supporting the actual VF.

Great point about the soap, no moisturizers! A detergent type works best. Read the labels to check.

Mano, the 1st 3 pics are very minor in my opinion. a little primer and sanding should make them invisible. The tiny bubbles are little trickier in the 3rd pic. Mix a tiny bit of CA with babypowder and apply it with a toothpick, Zip kick it, then sand it away within a 1/2 hour. The 4th pic, isn't too bad. It's quite small and will sand away quickly. The spot of detail, is a bit tough, but a square flat file's tip should also make quick work of the seam through the detail without wrecking the detail. The 5th is a bit easier, it's all square. It was just a bit of detail to break up the smoothness of the part. It doesn't have to stay centered even, unless you want it to. In the 6 picture, once you cut the ends of the signal arm flush, the connector fits right over that rod right about the middle of the picture to the rectangle on top. You won't see it or have to worry about covering it because it will be by the connector. All you have to do is make sure the pattern in the gaps between the upper and lower arms line up when you saw off the extra bit of rod. the connector will do the rest. Hope this helps some.

I just wanted to say, does anybody know how goofy it feels trying to come up with names for 'thingamabobs' and 'whozitswtsits' on a fictional sci-fi early '80's cartoon? Try it sometime. I promise, you'll feel like a dork. And damn it man, I am a model geek!

Ok forgive the gazzilion replies, I'm about to do but it's just to try and be helpful without adding confusion. First off if anybody isn't happy, I'll gladly take the kit back, and give a refund. I kinda figured it was a given that everybody knew that.

It's one of those modeling myths that a double action is better than a single. They're just different, and mostly a personal preference. In most of my modeling needs the single is just easier for the task. Yet if you're going to do some graphics, a double is easier. It's the person, not the brush. You'll get the hang of it in no time. Practice on a old toy, or a junk model.

Why thank you sir. We tried to make a kit people would like. I'm glad you like it. I am a bit curious about a VE-1 though, I dunno how the arm would grab the FAST packs with that big old dish on top. The Super Ostrich and a VE-1 (with no dish) could be done with a mod to the claw/tail pack connection, but I didn't try. I'd love to see what you come up with.

You may want to reconsider. The bugeye is a little bit bigger. The Monster is 41m long the Bugeye is 126m long. Monster in 1/72 = 22.4" Bugeye in 1/72 = 68.8" Now, if you got that much space, it ought to go to a 1/350 Prometheus at 57.5". Or 1/200 to use the Nichimo kits, but it'll be 100.7" We need a Macross museum, and be able to accept donations, and lotsa space for big projects. Mslz22, that's coming along very nicely!

BTw, if there's a moral to be learned, it's Do business with Myersjesse, Mslz22, Starship Modeler, and cobywan for top notch professionalism. A+ in all my books.

Sorry guys. Things have been quite hectic recently in my life, so I haven't been around too often. I gotta be honest, I get pretty bummed about my whole experience with my Monster. I made that sucker many years ago now. There was no 1/72, and the 1/144 Yellow Submarine kit was just appearing. I made it for myself to go with the rest of my 1/100 stuff, but during it's construction, I had to make molds for various parts. I showed my progress here but it only got a luke warm reception. I made a few decals for it, and a fictional history and nosearts as sort of a thanks to MW and certain members who were friendly and helpful to me back then. A couple people were interested in getting a copy. I made up the molds and poured a few then sold them. I think 2 or 3, but it was enough to cover my costs and get myself a couple of copies. Nobody else seemed to be too interested, so it kinda slipped away into the cracks. Then A couple years ago, people started asking where to get one again. I did not have the money or the time to make new molds. SMT was very popular and reputable then. I offered the Monster master to them in June of 2003, and I would get a pecentage of each sale along with 2 kits, and he would do the rest. SMT was big into Star Wars, and made some beautiful kits cheap. It looked like a win/win deal all around. I don't know what happened, but the Monster kept getting put back. I can recall about 8 kits off the top of my head that came after he had the Monster, but were kitted and sold before the Monster. They were big kits too. In the meantime, SMT starts slipping. Orders are left unfilled for months, and in a couple of cases a year. SMT starts losing it's excellent reputation. Every response was always it's almost done. So a loong time goes by. SMT finally makes a pre order anouncement and some people jump on it. Another really long time goes by, (You'd have to ask LSTO how long he waited) and people start asking me what's up. I am not sure but ask SMT letting them know people are getting angry. Again the it's almost there emails. Then just this past May, LSTO got his. As an aside, I still haven't recieved anything from SMT yet. Nice guy, but poor business man I suppose. Then a week or so ago, SMT announces they are scaling way back and want to slow down. I thought they were closing , so I asked for my copies and master back. SMT says, they are still producing. But now I see the price is almost doubled. So as of this moment, I don't know what's going on. But I do offer a sincere thanks for the moral support.

BTW, they are top notch to deal with. So don't sweat the quality or service.