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Lynx7725

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Posts posted by Lynx7725

  1. damage from dfa is 3 times 1/10 attacker weight so max damage is 30(3 * 10 for a hundred tonner). damage is divided into 5 point groups. it's not really likely that you would ever crush the head.

    You roll on the upper torso table, so the odds of a head hit is 1 in 6. It's not so much the head destruction, but the pilot hits.

  2. I'll say Tampo all, EXCEPT for the pilots names...

    Dreading the name Warmaker on a CF valk! :(

    Not the name... the whole Warmaker CLAN, stationed on the Prometheus.

    Heh. Did I mentioned my CF-1J had been here a whole 2 weeks, but I've yet to open it?

  3. Let's not forget the "Death From Above" cheeseball tactic. Basically you activate your jump jets to position yourself directly above an enemy mech and let him have it with everything you have.

    That's not Death From Above. DFA is when you deliberately crash into someone upon landing. On the board game, it's somewhat difficult to pull off and not always useful, and in the PC games it generally takes quite a bit of skill to pull off.

  4. Well it's not like the sets really have any plug and play weapons anyway. The only thing that looks mildly promising are the rockets/missiles on the helicopter. The rocket pods look similar to the ones on the first trailer base but I'm not too sure if they're exactly the same.

    Heh, who said anything about the helicopters? I want to slap these bazookas on the Frames:

    kbymb-22_3.jpg

    :lol::lol::lol:

  5. The non-scale vehicles or aircraft are suitable for display with mechas about 12 to 16cm tall or in 1/144 to 1/72 scale.

    It's hard to say but if they're compatible with the M.S.G. line like wolfx posted they are probably 1/144 scale roughly and should look fine.

    Uh, actually I meant if the weapons et. al. from these would plug into the Frames....

  6. Both frames have about 100 parts and you say that's way too little? :huh:

    You know as well as I do that's parts-on-sprue count, and that's relatively inaccurate. What's more, it's also only two style right now, with what, 3, maybe 4 weapons? Not really enough, not for the type of kitbashing possibility that lines like Busho Shinki and Armoured Core has.

    I like it, I really do. But if there's no clear idea what other further releases there will be, it's very iffy to get into.

    They have some support vehicles like tanks and helicopters as well. I haven't bought any yet but I'm planning to at some point.

    http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-22

    http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-23

    http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-24

    http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-25

    Those are an earlier line, so might not be part of this -- not even sure if it's compatible. But nice find, going to pick a couple up.

  7. Much as I hate to say it, think of it in Ace Combat terms.

    Are the newer, better PLANES in the latter part of the game that much better? Nope. Their WEAPONS and avionics are. Really, for "the final massive battle" you almost never want the aerodynamically best plane--you're looking for the one with jamming, longer radar lock-on-range, better mid-flight tracking for the missiles, ability to launch and support multiple missiles simultaneously, and the ability to find the semi-stealthy enemy aircraft in the first place. Raw agility is actually fairly low on the priority list.

    Well, to be honest, for AC6 I just look for the plane with the FAE...

  8. Hopefully if it takes off we'll see more. I'd be more than happy with a Classic Battletech resurrection since the current holders of Classic BT licenses sure haven't done much with them.

    Are you refering to the PC Game license or the general book license? Because Catalyst Game Lab has done quite a bit for the CBT line in the last 2 years.

  9. You can actually blame some of the novel authors for that. Improvised tactical nukes are nice and all in a story, but having them blow up right underneath you is a bit annoying.

    (I was playing MW4, was testing out a Daishi config.. 30 SRMs to an Uller drone and it ended up sliding beneath me. Another 30 started a nuke fire right under the cockpit....)

  10. Ouch. Definitely know that pain. :(

    Well, not so much pain here (as I'm not that big a gamer...). I called the support line, they verified my serial number, and then told me to go to the support center on Monday to pick up the exchange. It's gotten to the point where they treat it as "Business as usual"...

    Part of the recorded drone speech went on and on about the E74 error, and how the helpdesk people can't view the status of the refunds (or whatever) -- guess too many complaints there too.

    My RROD failure is actually quite interesting. I was playing Burnout Paradise when it started; game just started hanging, sometimes with a squeak. If you start seeing that for no good reason -- I thought I was overheating the console, but a cold start didn't alleviate the problem -- and lemme tell yah, it's 100% hang with 5 mins, you can't mistake it for anything else. Start gathering up the support docus, because it's on the RROD road...

  11. Here's a pic of the Italian car event I got to go to yesterday.

    I'll post some more in the car thread later.

    mg6343.jpg

    Forgot to mention -- nice composition. I'm just thinking it would be better if you could have taken 2 or 3 steps to the left. Something about the rear car's wheel arc being visible feels right to me.

  12. It's especially bad if you're working with film as it's aggravatingly easy to spend literally hours setting up lights and taking photos only to find out that you had a lamp out of place days latter when you finally get around to developing the film V_V

    Heh, that's why digital is much better for these. Fairly instant feedback.

    The trick, I find, is to use consistent types of lighting. Use all tube, or all bulb, all daylight or all white, but don't mix; the key consideration is consistency in colour of light. You can custom white balance a consistent shift in colour out, but if you mix in yellows and blues it becomes very hard to get the colours right.

    The amount of light is much less an issue, because you have multiple technical tricks up your slevees; you can bring in more light, or you can increase the exposure, or you can open the lens up, or up the ISO. Of course it depends on your subject, shooting stationary stuff indoors is fairly trivial in terms of technicalities, while shooting concerts or presentations is a PITA.

  13. here's a couple that i particularly like that were taken w/ our new "soccer mom" cam. :)

    Not bad. The bokeh on the yellow flower is very nice. The red seems to be a bit soft though.

    If anything, these highlights how much technology can be used to bridge the experience gap...

    while i find it easier to shoot outdoors, i have to admit that shooting indoors w/out the use of a flash is a lot harder, esp. when your place doesn't have a spot which is very well lit. :)

    Actually, the reverse is more likely. Indoors, you can often control the lighting, simply by bringing in more lights and setting the angles right. Outdoors you are dependent a lot on the weather, which makes things a lot trickier at times.

  14. what scale are the former ones you mentioned

    Why are they better

    What materials do they use.

    and they dont seem to have a big line up

    also whats with the Robot Spirits line.

    Is this line Better???

    EMSIA and MSIA are nominally 1/144, but EMSIA is a tad bit bigger. I'm not sure of the material, should be PVC? Rubbery. Definitely not on the same density and quality as GFF PVC. MSIA has a huge lineup, but EMSIA is a lot more restricted.

    Why are they better? Suits my needs and style better. I like to play with them, change their pose frequently when I'm handling them, so they need to stand up to abuse and be much more posable than GFF. Detailing is definitely not up to GFF's mark, but that's always a bonus for me, so it's not a big loss IMO.

    But if I'm to invest in a display piece that I can occasionally take out to repose, then GFF fits the bill. It largely depends on what you want to do with it.

    If the Robot Spirits is what I think you refer to, I don't own any, so I can't tell...

  15. Generally speaking, I would treat GFF as posable, modifiable display models rather than toys that can be played with. A lot of optional parts that in some cases you can mix and match, incredible details (that you pay for), but very poor playability due to the sacrifice of fit/ joint space for looks.

    Don't get them if you are not prepared to leave them to gather dust in the display. If you want to play with them on a regular basis, EMSIA, MSIA or even HCM-Pro is better.

  16. Anyway I did re-work the thruster effects on my 11B and decided to add an outer-glow to the thuster exhaust on the foot, booster, and vernier thrusters ^_^

    Yeah well, I got bored. Turned out to be a few hours of effort:

    VF-11FB.jpg

    Many things I'm not happy about, and a lot of mistakes, but hey, you learn from those...

    EDIT: Youch! U/led the wrong file -- screwed a layer up and exported the wrong file. Should be fixed now..

  17. Hmm.. actually, if I can get my mitts on some cheap, I might mod it to carry some ordnance. Maybe a pair of missiles, or rocket pods, or iron bombs. And a low-vis paint scheme.

    But, m'eh. Not keen if it takes too much effort to track down.

  18. I knew there was no way I was going to convince my wife to let me spend that kind of cash on a camera. Then I thought about it as a business and not having the up front expense.

    Dude -- a piece of advice? Don't quit your day job.

    Ever considered that the glut of really good prosumer SLRs means there's a lot more people with exactly the same idea as you? And the general herd of humanity can't tell the difference between a good and a great photograph -- most of them are after the cheapest possible photographer, especially for events like weddings and such. Most of these "professional" photographers don't even do it for a main living -- a lot are just hobbyists with good gear that is moonlighting.

    I know someone who started photography seriously when he was about 18 (he was older than me by about a year or so, IIRC), by now (over a decade later) he's very experienced and very good. But he couldn't keep up with the competition when they are running around with better gear than he had, using superior AI and technology to compensate for lack of experience, and charging way under what he has to (to maintain his solo photography work). Too darn proud to join a studio, he ended up migrating and studying accountancy. Or finance, can't quite remember.

    Being the best artist with camera glass means... not that much actually, without the connections necessary to get your work published and recognized. Unless you already have access to an extensive network, your first few gigs are going to be quite low paying and mind numbing. If you're single and not worried about supporting a family, that might be ok... but it's still good to have another stable source of income.

    This is what I suggest: you're working as a mobile DJ; that means you move around a lot. Get a decent entry level DSLR, then before or after you work, go around the area and look for interesting things to photograph. Try different styles, different approaches, different perspectives. Then share the photos out at places where you can get critiques.

    I ain't going to lie -- unless you really have talent for it, the first few thousand photos you take are going to be very mundane and boring, and it will show. Then after a while, you'll develop interest areas, where you will become much more in-tune with, and then you'll start to develop your own personal style. And that's when, if you really are very good and you actually get there, you'll start breaking into the right circles.

    The different between a good picture and a great picture isn't the camera but the photographer.

    Nothing against wizartar, but I'm really very tired of hearing that line. Yes, the artistic talent of the photographer plays a big part, but so does equipment; a genius with poor equipment is constrained by the limits of the equipment, but an idiot with great equipment can still produce good results... but will not, of course, be able make the most of the equipment.

    Put another way -- equipment allows the photographer to make the most of his talent; having the right level of equipment relevant to the current and developing skillset will allow the photographer to be most efficient and still continue to grow. Being over- or under-equipped just punishes the photographer for no good reason.

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