BlueMax

Also, I see the GBP-1S, in standard colors and in Roy's colors or what what looks like yellow instead of red. Also, the one at the far left seems to be housing what looks like a Max 1J underneath

https://www.facebook.com/groups/976411302452770/permalink/3558620870898454/ Besides the DX Chogokin VF-1D, looks like the AV projection pod will be introduced as well

I had an order made about 3-4 months back, on SAL. they have not shipped it out yet. I'm not in a rush to get it, so i'll just treat it as free storage. If the item is gone,then at least I'm certain Amiami will refund me, or least offer me store credit which is actually useful.

These have never been exposed to direct sunlight, only ambient and fluorescent light when displayed. After the release of the V2 Yamato’s, they were retired from display and stored in almost airtight plastic bags and in darkness flor at least a decade. These are the results. The VF-1J was display and stored with the GBP-1S. You can see the difference in (dis)color. The VF-1A actually has very substantial yellowing, only mitigated by the fact that the bass plastic is already brown

I think you misunderstand. What I am saying is: We cannot compare 2 versions of 1/48 released more than 15 years apart as if they were released around the same time. Obviously Bandai does better overall, as it should. If the current design isn't a significant improvement over a 15 year old version, then we are regressing. Also, my comments are SPECIFIC to the DX SUPER/STRIKE parts, not the valkyrie, My opinion on the VF-1 itself is that Bandai run circles round Yamato, as they should, and I am very happy that there is this amount of progress here. Again, I am saying the Super/strike parts are lacking bandai's A-game here (unlike the VF-1 itself) and Yamato's efforts here are very much more appreciated, espeically for a 15 year old design, as compared to what Bandai could have done.

You simply can't compare Yamato 1/48 and Bandai Dx 1/48 as if they were released at the same time! There is more than a decade and a half of time gap between them! The fact that a 15-year old toy manages to outdo the Bandai DX's super parts on some substantial points, really shows that there is a lack of effort and and in my opinion, sincerity, in bringing out what should have been their A game to this on Bandai's part.

You are probably right that at their scale, the kind of realtime shipping estimate has a poor cost-benefit ratio. Well, if this is the more cost effective method for them at the cost of user experience, then the only thing i'd ask from them is that they stop threatening end users with a ban for cancelling orders which the end user in all sincerity would have bought if not for the shipping charges.

It would be nice of Mandarake (or any other similar establishment) to publish the known shipping cost for whatever previous destination that was requested as part of its listing (I know Sahra had it, but nowadays everthing there just says "checking"). I imagine, it could save them quite a bit of trouble in the long run, especially for the bulkier items.

In this case, they are right.... but as we all know, even broken clocks tell the time correctly twice a day.

i'm willing to bet minimal sunlight...at most just exposure to ambient and maybe flourescent light. Also, probably displayed in-situ for close to 15 years?

Well said, and thank you @sqidd for the measurement data/ knowledge. The objective is then "How to delay the yellowing for as long as possible". Although UV undoubtly by itself is a huge factor, I will urge everyone to pay attention to, and attempt to minimise the other contributing factors (plastic composition, direct exposure of bare plastic to air, sustained heat, touch/sweat/oil on skin, high humidity) as well. Also, these are not just as standalone factors, but each and every factor can be a catalyst for each other (eg, bare plastic with bad composition, exposed to sustained heat, visible/invisible light spectrum, and frequently handled by bare hands.) Some things we cannot control, but I am of the opinion that a clear coat, especially a UV cut version, would aid tremendously in buying time before perceptible yellowing sets in.

Nice! Thanks for sharing! Always great to see your updates.

The next logical question is: if the plastics used is the base problem, is there still anything we can do to prevent yellowing, or at least delay it? Or is it futile no matter what?

That’s the thing... it sure ain’t exposure to UV in your case, though prior exposure might play a part. Yellowing can occur regardless of the color of plastic, just a matter of whether it is obvious or not. Maybe a few questions you can ask answer: Were the items handled with bare hands regularly prior to storage? Is it an even yellowing? Does the yellowing somewhat correspond to where contact was made when handling?m, or mainly the “top-sides” and parts generally visible to the eye? How long were displayed in regular settings before being settled in a dark room? Why kind of lights were you using in regular settings? How hot and humid is your dark room?

AC use would probably give the best results, but in my case, that room has no AC, so desiccant packs/ hungry hippos (from Daiso) for me now, plus a hygrometer for measurement. This is in addition to making sure I limit my time inside (previously I would spend lengthy periods inside trying to look for stuff, and that would result in me becoming very hot and sweaty, raising the temp and humidity levels. I made use of the Circuit Breaker period ( in effect a Soft covid lock down) to fully rearrange the room and offloaded loads of unwanted stuff. Now things are sorted properly and catalogued so I won’t have to spend unnecessary time going through stuff.

Not a Chemist, but from a common sense point of view, what I can think of and what I am currently trying to do is minimise the risk factors at play. All the risk factors, seem to have this in common: Exposure of bare plastic to: AIR, combined with heat, humidity, organic contaminations (oils, sweat, etc) and visible / invisible spectrum of electromagnetic radiation. Except for visible light, i am attempting to eliminate or at least minimise the risk factors’ direct interaction with the bare plastic. I am currently sealing all new and opened Macross toys’ white or light coloured bare plastics with a top coat, specifically Gunze’s Mr Super Clear (semi gloss) and the UV cut version (flat). Of course, we won’t know the outcome until a few years later... and even then, it might not be conclusive. I’m not setting this up as an experiment after all, more to protect my toys the best I can.

I have a room, totally non-ventilated, which is used to store all my valks and other stuff, from about 2011 onwards. Since then, more than 95% of the time, the room is not accessed and is is basically in darkness until the ligts are switched on. However, the room is constantly between 30 - 32 Deg Celsius (86-90 Deg F) and maybe even higher on warmer days. Humidity level is high, because I live in the tropics (I have since corrected this in the last couple of months to be more inline with ambient humidity), and is evident by instances of whitish mold growth on some of the boxes (most obvious on the TF masterpiece black boxes). There are 2 main results. 1. Toys that have basically seen very little or no display outside its original packaging and stayed in packaging for the duration of the 9 years. Very limited to zero handling by hand. 2. Toys that have seen substantial time outside (months to couple of years out out box, but out of direct sunlight, but exposed to flourescent light at night for up to 4-5 hours each night) and then either left in the dark exposed, or put into storage in ziplock bags and sealed. Also, most have been handled by bare skin pror to being put back in storage. For toys under 1: There seems to be little to no yeallowing at all, when I pulled a couple out of storage just days ago to take pictures to facilitate selling (Yamato 1/48 VF-1A Max and Kakizaki) . To be clear, alot of MISB toys' condition are unable to be ascertained. For toys under 2: Substantial yellowing, and for some, very serious yellowing. Regardless of whether they have been in ziplock bags or not. (Examples include: Yamato 1/48 Roy Focker and VF-1A Hikaru, All 1/60 VF-1 V1s, 1/60 Roy Focker VF-1 V2 and Bandai 1/55 CF, Interestingly, once those in group 2 were exposed to regular ambient light, after a couple of days, the yellowing subsided a little, not as bad, but still obvious. (intense exposure to sunlight for the severely yellowed items yielded good (up to 70% less yellowing), though with somewhat uneven results (some parts only yielded 20% or so) Makes me wonder how many factors there were in play here simultaneously, and how much each contributes. Heat? Light? Prior exposure to visible/ invisible spectrum of light? Organic residue after being handled by bare hands? Moisture? Quality of plastics (some parts remained as white as ever)?

Thanks. Time to replace my 2700K leds!

4000K or 6500K?

Way too generous... more like milliseconds

Very nice! Can I ask if the finish is semi-gloss or gloss? thanks!

I was in disbelief and almost certain someone was pulling a prank when I saw the news... until I saw the source(s). My deepest condolences to his family.

Nono, I’m not asking for step by step, I’m just saying that I appreciate the sharing on your choice of TOP coats, as well as how you prepared the resin kits, and the various things to take care of

Amazing customs and photography! Also the step-by-steps are very much appreciated!