fulcy

And, here's what's been done over the weekend so far. I would have more of it finished, but I've had to put in hours at work, for a design review on monday - woo hoo. The entire assembly is going together much easier than the first one - everything is flat and square, and lines up almost perfectly. The next step is to punch out the external panel details, and attach those to the sides of these bases.

Sorry bout that guys - I wasn't trying to show off or anything, I just believe in educating the masses!

Ah, common misconception - rubber IS a resin (resins are polymerized synthetics that are used to make plastics). What you want to ask is what durometer urethane resin he is using - a lower durometer (say, a 30 shore A) would be very flexible, allowing people to bend them into position to put into the cockpit...

Alright, is anyone else having trouble downloading these torrents, or I guess more appropriately, problems connecting to the tracker?

I'm starting over, because the base I am building on top of was built totally wrong - the pieces that I used to make the boxes weren't the same width, and as a result, when I put the two parts together, there are gaps. I've tried three times to fix this problem, and each time it's just gotten worse - as it stands right now, the back of the shoulder armor, where the thruster mounts, is about .04 wider than the front most tip of it. Not to mention the fact that the edges don't mate well, and it's caused me to reevaluate, and start over...

Well, normally I would notch a small mark as a guide for the pin vise, so I rarely have the problem you mentioned (the wandering pin vise). But for 0.01" pla-plate, I guess this is overkill.. Uhm, okay, if you say so.. As long it's not in your lap, you do need to think about the family jewels. Hmm. If you have seen the 1/60 GBP thread, the general opinion was that Yamato had the shoulder missile pods mounted on a slip cover which will go over the existing shoulders, to give the missile pods more stability. So instead of a missile pod C-clamping the shoulder, we have a missile pod of a false shoulder structure which will in turn go over the actual shoulder, like a glove over your hand. Yeah, I didn't notch anything on the styrene - just drew some lines on it with a pencil and then punched away. And, if the thing that's scaring you is the fact I said hyperdermic needle, then let me explain myself. All I am using is some very small, very thin walled stainless steel tubing from McMaster Carr. You get this tubing in 36" lengths, and I go and cut a 1" section off of it. Then, I take a rotary bit in my dremel, and bevel the inside of the edge I am going to use to cut with, so it cuts a little easier - but even with this bevel, it is no where near as sharp as a hyperdermic needle - and anyway, if it was as sharp as a hyperdermic needle, it would get dull rather quickly, after a few hits with the small hammer. I've found this method to be far easier to use in thin styrene - doesn't damage the surrounding styrene, and leaves a clean, crisp hole where you want it. As far as the shoulder cover is concerned? I see no need for it (Lightning explained it to me). It looks like they are using it, to make it look like the shoulder is actually larger than it is, so that the shoulder armor 'fits' better, and is more accurate to the lineart. Pfffftt - that seems like a poor solution to that problem - I already have ideas on how to compensate for that...

Uhm, Fulcy.. you might want to invest in a pin vise. I think it's a lot safer then stabbing hyperdermic needles into pla-plate. Not to mention I rather you not get too much practice in stabbing hyperdermic needles into anything. Anyways. After seeing the work here, I have got to get more practice in scratchbuilding outside of the 28mm range. That you are willing to toss what I would have considered great work is really depressing. EDIT: Oh, BTW, you might want to steal an idea from Yamato and use their slip-cover ideas for the should missile pods. That might make your life a bit easier. nah, pin vises are too inaccurate. I tried to make the details originally with a pin vice, but I found the drill bit wandered too much when drilling through the plastic. The hyperdermic needle is VERY safe, unless I am hitting it while on my lap - just put the piece of plastic on a wood block, line up the needle where you want it, and tap the end twice with a hammer, and viola! Instant, clean hole. What do you mean by slip cover idea? For what part of the shoulder armor - or are you saying that I should add ALOT more detail, such as internal thruster parts and such, and make the parts visible by way of a removeable cover?

Were the later episodes ever fansubbed? I've got the subs up to episode 20, from AonE and AnimeJunkies, (or was that AniKraze - whichever one is better), but I was told that they were asked to stop making the subs, by Production IG - is this true? I'd really like to get the later eps, or a US dvd release!

Well, the way i did it - I first built the base shoulder armor. Then, I took a thin sheet of styrene (.010" thick), and used some stainless steel hyperdermic needle tubing to punch holes in it. Then I used a sharp exacto knife to cut between the holes, and remove the material I wanted to remove. After all that was done, I took the piece of styrene, and carefully aligned and glued it onto the base shoulder armor.kinda tedious, but it's the best way to add details similar to panel lines to a piece, instead of carving away at the base part. Thanks guys for the positive feedback so far - yeah Jason, f michigan!

Here's the lineart for it...

Well, I know it's been a while, and truthfully, I should have more done than this. But life has a way to throw off all well laid plans (as do girlfriends), so this is the update for now. Yesh, the project isn't dead. However, the shoulder armor pieces you see above? I've resigned myself to the fact that I'm going to have to scrap them and start over. I built the original frames for them the wrong way, and they resulted in parts that weren't square, and the inner surfaces didn't mate well - though, it could also just be my anal nature rearing it's ugly head again - who knows. Hopefully I can polish off a good portion of the rebuild this weekend....

Actually, it's at the top of the page, right under the New Topic/New Poll icon...

patience young one. Good things come to those who wait... Doesn't matter how long it will be when they come, but are they going to do it? I didn't say THEY were going to do it Omni........ I'm sure you know what Fulcy is known for around these parts right? B) Fulcy will shock us all... -Drops his pants and moons all of MW-

patience young one. Good things come to those who wait... Doesn't matter how long it will be when they come, but are they going to do it? I didn't say THEY were going to do it

patience young one. Good things come to those who wait...

In your Control Panel for this forum, you can set how many posts you see on a single page - up to 40.

I think he was commenting about your topic title - which has GP02 in it...

Could he have picked a better background color? Jeez, she looks good, but she'd look better if she didn't blend in with the background!

I don't have it (oh, god, do I want it though! ), but here's a review the guys over at TBDX did on it... ToyBoxDX Metal Grade Gundam review

The old boards are down for now, because they were infringing on someone else's bandwidth. So check your PM!

Actually, there already is a forum just for Vendors... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=SF&f=14 Yes. But at any other place that is a venue of sale on the internet vendors are charged... Why not here as well? I didn't say they shouldn't be charged - I was just pointing out to Vostok that there was a place for vendors to sell already (since it was one of his points, that it would require a small bit of reorganization).

Actually, there already is a forum just for Vendors... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=SF&f=14

www.smooth-on.com That's where I buy all my stuff (except the clay - you can find that at your local art supply store). Try out one of the starter kits - the oommoo one is great for beginners. Oh, and I haven't forgotten about the high resolution scans - I just need to get a few free minutes, and I can post em here...

Well, you have to remember that the Club-M is a fighter mode only model - so it was obviously sculpted to look best in fighter mode. Whereas, with the Yamato, compromises needed to be made to allow for transformation, and to strike a compromise between what looks best in fighter/battroid/gerwalk modes...

Wow. I could just get lost in her... Earings...