fulcy

Do it very, very carefully! Actually, you want to go to your local hobby store, and buy what's called a razor saw. It's about 5" long, and anywhere from 1/2" to over 1" tall, and maybe as thick as an exacto knife blade. You can get them with fine teeth or coarse teeth - fine cuts really nicely, leaves a smooth edge, but can take a while, coarse is rougher, but cuts through whatever like butter. Or, if you have some time to spare before starting, check these out. http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?HSGTL3 http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?HSGTP-3 http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?HSGTP-4 They are saws that are photoetched from a sheet of metal, so they are REALLY thin. I've been using them for a couple of years now, and they are some of the best razor saws I have ever used. Hope this helps!

I've messaged Melissa about this already, but I'll post it here too. I'm not too sure if I'd be up for one of these guys, but I'd be willing to help out with sourcing the screws - I'm sure I could get them from McMaster, either Metric or suitable SAE replacements, that should be cheaper than any source that doesn't deal in hardware (and I also have some hardware specific suppliers that may be cheaper than McMaster - depending on quantity). It'll at least help Valkyrie out, with not having to do ALL the work.

I had this translation of a Dengeki Hobby magazine article done a while ago, check out this THREAD. Enjoy!

Yeah - at work I have a 24" letterboxed LCD, and like you, anything lower than 1920x1200 is just too large, and doesn't give me enough desktop space for using my CAD programs...

Hehehe, I always felt alone asking for that resolution. Nice to know there's someone else out there who runs at hi-res Hi res? Try running at 1920 x 1200 sometime - I dare you - the icons are so small!

I wouldn't worry about these two - cause if I have my way, if Yamato doesn't release them in 1/48, I will...

smaller, definitely.

Or pray that I get my butt back into the hobby room. Gosh, what AM I doing on this computer - I have much better things to do!?!?

I don't do toys, so I don't know this well, but isn't there already a Gouf Custom HY2M? I know I saw a prototype shot of it somewhere. I dunno if there's a Gouf Custom HY2M - the Gouf released under the HY2M line was a normal Gouf, not the custom - though, someone may have beat me to the punch with the Gouf Custom conversion - unless you are talking about the POS Gouf Custom conversion for the PG - which I own, and have tried mating to the Gouf HY2M - it just don't work. Besides being a crappy sculpt and casting job, the armor pieces are too small to work on the HY2M...

LOL, and at the rate they're going, we'll only have to wait another two years for them! *weeps bitterly* as long as they make them someday, and Bandai gets off its ass and finally makes a Gouf Flight MG, i'll be okay. If not, i may have to nuke Bandai from orbit.... ...its the only way to be sure. Be patient young one - once I get some time on my hands, that's my next project - to convert the HY2M Gouf into a Custom first, and then a Flight Type...

It was probably closed because there's a thread pinned at the top of this section, labeled 'What's wrong with my yamato, bandai, etc'. You should have posted your question there.

pastel chalks would be best - they apply easiest and adhere best over a flat finish.

while i love the current design(s), i tend to agree... this box is definitely not "TV" Macross - which is what is going in the box after all. i mean... at least use a VF-1S Roy rather than a Hikaru Skull... You have to remember leb - this box not only holds tv macross, but also dyrl - hence the use of dyrl artwork...

You could always add a metal insert for the stem to strengthen it up - the ankle joints for my 1/55 customs used a brass rod with a ball that was cast onto it - only way I could support the entire weight of a 1/55 on an 1/8" diameter rod of resin... that may be a good idea but I think it'll be a lot more work...for Rhoby. and he might have to go out and buy the rods, then cut them, then place them with the cast. I don't think it'll be too bad, I mean, if you have one of the JM recasts, you can see the FP stay on alright w/o any extra support. But I'm sure EXO/Rhoby will test it out before hand...they woudln't sell us some things that'd break that easily. True, it'd be a little extra work for rohby - I guess what really needs to happen, is for rohby to cast a couple, and test them out, see if they are sturdy enough - if they are, then great. If they don't hold up under light usage (pulling on and off, holding and being posed with the gun, etc), then it'd be a solution that might need to be explored.

You could always add a metal insert for the stem to strengthen it up - the ankle joints for my 1/55 customs used a brass rod with a ball that was cast onto it - only way I could support the entire weight of a 1/55 on an 1/8" diameter rod of resin...

Actually, though I like takatoys stickers alot, they are just that - stickers. You apparently have the ability to customize a 1/48, and I would highly recommend Anasazi's waterslide decals - they stay on much better than any sticker ever will, and are much thinner than stickers too. PM Anasazi through this board's Private Messanger, and ask him about getting a set of decals. By the way - great looking custom!

I doubt the flames you see are actually the plane on fire - that's almost certainly from the ejection seat, well, being ejected.

Got mine late last week, if I remember correctly...

Hmmm... I was under the impression the box was for SDF and the movie... Either way, I'd say the best bet is to go with the classic Skullfocker... it's the same either way. Blaine - you are correct, this box is for SDF macross AND DYRL?, so the Strike valk would be perfectly acceptable...

why not use the strike hasegawa VF-1 image for the top?

Those are actually the Master Grade kits of the RX-78-4 and RX-78-5 (the -5 is the red one on the left). The Mudrock has not been produced as a Master Grade kit - yet. At some point I hope they do, because next to the GP04G, the Mudrock is my favorite Gundam design...

That's basically what I've been trying to say - unless, of course, we don't have an original, in which case we'll have to make due with what we can get our hands on. Sigh - sometimes I wish I were a little more eloquent...

Mmmm... Mudrock...

See, I think you're missing my point - I agree with everything you say! It'll be tough to find any images on the web, posted at a high enough resolution, to satisfy the requirements given by Paul - but, they'd be useable, if they were large enough. I was just saying that if we find an image on the web, and as long it's of large enough size, we can use it - obviously, if we are working from the original images, or from a rendering, it'd make little sense to save them as jpg's, as you said - tif's are much more printer friendly than jpg's. It's just whether we can FIND the originals that may be the problem...

Sorry Fulcy. I work as a Grph. Dsgn and web images don't work. Magazines, billboards, posters that I've worked on.... .jpgs or .gifs look like crap next to .tifs. Compression is ugly, and you don't get nice rich textures. True, compression is ugly, but not all jpg's are nasty - if they are large enough at 72 dpi, that you can resize them to the right size at 300 dpi, then I stand by my previous statement that as long as they are of large enough size, jpgs can be used.