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mechaninac

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Everything posted by mechaninac

  1. An alcohol soaked cotton swab should do it; more aggressive options would be oven cleaner (it's plastic safe), nail polish remover, and enamel thinner (can turn styrene based plastics brittle).
  2. Aside from the colors, other than the pilot?... Absolutely nothing.
  3. Here are some links: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21944&hl=%2Bcrusher+%2Bjoe http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=23880&hl=%2Bcrusher+%2Bjoe
  4. To me, if Bandai announces the Ozma version of the YF-29. that assertion may come into question. Although, I'd rather get the news that his 25S is being reissued soon, before the YF-30, even.
  5. I got my shipping notification as well, but since I opted for the cheapest SAL choice it could be a minimum of 1.5 weeks before I see it.
  6. Hong Kong Collectibles still has it in sock if you're dead set on getting one...
  7. "Preparation in progress" for mine... and seriously tempted to purchase a second.
  8. I'm positive all the clear bits are molded in color: transparent/translucent green, purple, and blue, respectively. As such, there is no possibility of stripping any of them down to water clear for a color change; you either accept Bandai's choices, or remove the bits that offend you in order to make molds to recast them in clear resin that you can tint before pouring, or paint after. Personally, I don't have a problem with what Bandai has done on Isamu's 29. It would've been nice if they'd gone with green and blue, or green and purple, or red and blue or purple, for that matter... heck, it would've been nice if all of Bandai's Frontier, at al, were matte finish, but they are what they are.
  9. That's one pink crab... like someone de-shelled the poor thing to expose its squishy flesh. The proportions and casting quality look amazing.
  10. Just paid for mine, with amount due deferred for up to 6 months, which makes it a lot easier on my poor depleted wallet.
  11. To me, in no particular order: VF-11B/C Thunderbolt III -- it has such clean lines. VF-0A/D/S Phoenix -- D aside, this one is just like the VF-1, only better in aesthetic terms. YF-21/VF-22 -- one of the cleanest F modes, and it's inspired by the YF-23 Black Widow II ATF... 'nuff said. Honorable mentions to the VF-1, VF-2, and VF-171.
  12. Those look really good.
  13. Here's a site that will inspire, instruct, and scare you...
  14. I think I just done pooped my pants... That is suitably impressive!
  15. I've but one thing to say: Arcadia, take notice!
  16. mechaninac

    acrylic risers

    Pricey. Try an office supply store (not online) or Ebay and save yourself some money. I once bought 2 sets comprising of a 3", a 4", and a 5" risers per set for around $12.00 total for both at my local Staples... just like this set on Ebay. Edit: It was several years ago, but they did carry them; they may still do.
  17. In addition to Ozma's VF-25S: A rerelease of their VB-6 Monster(s). A continuation of their line of EXGears (Michael, Ozma, and even Luca) and/or... A line of 1/12, articulated, character figures; I would prefer Figmas, but Bandai does excellent pieces too. Edit: Good one David, I could go for a VF-27 in green as well, Grace's or a CF.
  18. Are those ball joints I see in the hip section of the lower body clamshell (second image, lower right)?
  19. I'm pretty confident they would also act as a reactive armor panels protecting the Thermonuclear engines from side impacts from enemy fire... at least the first hit.
  20. That's an idea... What I do oftentimes in order to minimize, and even eliminate, whitish stress marks on any stubborn sprue nub spot is to brush a bit of liquid cement on it, and immediate surrounding surfaces, to melt the offending spot and make it blend with the rest of the plastic; then, once cured, re-sand and polish with a polishing stick or hem of a tee-shirt (this works better on Styrene than it does on ABS, but even ABS will show a marked improvement). For tears, I will follow the previous proceedure, but before re-sanding I'll add a sliver of plastic shaved off the sprue tree to rebuild the damaged spot; I add more model cement on top to further soften the area, and use the handle end of a pair of tweezers to push and smooth this plastic filler "spackle" (sometimes using a bit of saliva on the metal "spatula" as a lubricant to prevent the repair from sticking to it). Once cured, the spot is sanded smooth and polished; if necessary, the whole procedure can be repeated until a desirable result is achieved... again, this works better with Styrene than it does with ABS.
  21. Yep! Those are the missiles; the new YF-19 will have leg missile bays, but I doubt they will operate with the conformal leg packs attached.
  22. Burnishing the nub with your fingernail, after it's been cut, filed, and sanded down to match the surrounding surface, usually works; but the end results vary depending on the type of plastic (Styrene vs. ABS) and its color... I find blues specially finicky.
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