Jump to content

mechaninac

Members
  • Posts

    4189
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mechaninac

  1. You do realize that's only half a sentence, right?
  2. Ditto... 9-ish inches cube with the SP box wedged in diagonally and cradled in paper.
  3. The style seems to me like a simplified version of what we saw in The Clone Wars; it's very similar, but lacks the "weight" of the rendering of the previous series. It's color pallet also comes across as far more pastels and muted tones that give it a "chalky" look that is visually flatter than TCW. At least that's the way I see it.
  4. ^ That kind of depends on whether you're referring to SDFM or DYRL?; after all, the VF-1D is a trainer.
  5. Nuclear researchers have been claiming that practical Fusion reactors are 50 years away since the 1950's. So yeah, I'll believe it when I see it.
  6. N-Y's initial price is slightly better, but their shipping cost is higher. I went with HLJ myself... lowest shipping cost around based on past experience (even if this item will be EMS/FedEx only), and easier to cancel if the need arises, or if the 0D gets included in their expected Black Friday Sale -- order another at the sale price and cancel the more expensive one.
  7. ^ That's kind of cool and not surprising at all that Disney would want to absolutely canonize their ride designs; but since I've never been on that ride, or Disney Land/World for that matter, it didn't register with me at all. Thanks for pointing it out, though.
  8. Finally received my Ozma 29 Super Parts from N-Y... I'm always surprised by how small the box for Durandal's accessories pieces is compared to those for the 25 and 171; it just doesn't look right.
  9. Went with HLJ for now. Hoping for a Black Friday deal from them. Plus, HLJ has the easiest cancellation policy going, so if some better deal materializes before the invoices go out, it's a simple matter to cancel the pre-order. The thing with HLJ is that, because of the item's price, SAL will not be an option; on the plus side, their FedEx or EMS charges will be somewhere around 2200-2500 Yen... Bandai's YF-30 was 2180 Yen for FedEx.
  10. First series episode and already falling back on showcasing classic characters for story telling fodder... Although, it was well handled, all things considered. And even at point blank range, the bucket-heads still can't hit the broad side of a barn . Muttonchops is the only somewhat competent imperial depicted thus far; it's a wonder that, with such poor soldiers, the Empire was able to conquer anything... sheer overwhelming numbers, I guess. Next week, the Inquisitor makes his non-hologram appearance.
  11. Finally got my '30 from HLJ! Quick first impressions: Off White + Satiny finish = best finish Bandai has produced on a Frontier, etc. VF so far... it's beautiful. Vertical stabs really come across as a case of meh!-good-enough design... shame on you, Kawamori San. Pilot rattles around inside the canopy like a BB in a boxcar. Everything seems nice and tight. Paint and Tampo applications look spot-on perfect.
  12. Or extreme confidence that the property is a sure-fire winner. Time will tell...
  13. First thing that popped into my head while watching the preview: True Lies.
  14. The Vampire genre has spawned far more than its fair share of cinematic turds over the decades, so it does not surprise me in the least that this new take on Dracula is just another entry in that long line of garbage. Of course, nothing in recent memory has reached the depths of unwatchable insipid crap achieved by the Twilight series of movies... utter pablum that make Van Helsing and Queen of the Damned screen like masterpieces by comparison.
  15. Saw it. Wasn't that impressed. Then again, I wasn't very impressed with the Clone Wars movie that introduced that series either, so the Rebel series itself may yet turn into something special. I have to agree with the sentiments regarding Ezra... there's a lot of Aladdin in his character design, and not just his appearance. As mentioned before, the TIEs look odd with the too-small, original Hasbro toy-like panels. I guess I'll just chalk that up to them being Mk. 1s to the original trilogy's version (Mk. 2s with improved, larger panels for greater range?). I kind of liked, in a roll your eyes sort of way, that the storm troopers were notoriously bad shots even before 'A New Hope'. The Wookie designs looked terrible.
  16. Raider? What happened with convention of naming Army helicopters after Native American Tribes? And, no, the Osprey does not constitute as example as it is a tilt-rotor.
  17. I still have mine sitting in HLJ's Private Warehouse. Waiting until this Friday to place the shipment request for it, along with a whole lot of other stuff; I'm likely to have it by no later than the end of next week... my discipline has been sorely tested, though.
  18. As long as you have all the pieces of the screw boss, you should be able to reconstruct it without much trouble with any plastic weld that has been discussed here. Dry fit everything to see how it all should align before introducing the solvent; then liberally brush the cement all over the surfaces of the screw boss while avoiding contact with the outside surfaces. Once everything is coated and loosely held together, apply a bit of pressure to the repair to force some melted plastic oozing to occur. After letting the repair cure overnight, use super glue around the repaired boss to reinforce it. Build up this reinforcement as much as you can without it becoming visible from the outside, or interfering with the mating part(s). Test out the reassembly to make sure it all mates as it should and there are no interferences resulting from the fix... cut, file, sand, scrape, drill as necessary to address any problems. If everything fits as it intended, you should be able to reassemble the parts the same way they came from the factory, screws and all. These steps have worked for me to great effect when repairing some seriously disintegrated screw bosses on some vintage 1/60 Orguss toys... anyone who has owned an Ishkick or M Lover toy knows how brittle the ABS on those are and how prone to shattering to bits their joint tend to be; yet, I have been able to salvage more than one in this fashion.
  19. ^ Amazon Amazon Model Train Stuff The above are examples of what you should be looking for. I could be wrong but, the first picture you posted looks like Super Glue designed for plastic and is likely to have some of the same drawbacks as regular CA, and would be applied straight from the tube; the second appears to be a two-part epoxy for plastic that requires you to evenly squeeze the syringe to deposit two equal blobs onto a scrap piece of paper or platic to be manually mixed into a milky gel to be applied with a toothpick -- too messy to use on a delicate toy like a VF-1. What you want to get is a clear, low viscosity liquid that flows like water and is usually applied with an included brush, and that works by chemically melting the plastic being bonded. Make sure the nail polish is acetone based, or buy a super glue remover. As with any chemicals being applied to your toy, test the stuff on a small hidden area to make sure it has no adverse effect on the plastic. Edit: Congratulations on getting the refund, at least it is something.
  20. Wouldn't you need to sell said kidney in order to raise the funds?
  21. If you do decide to give the plastic weld (also called plastic cement or model glue, although more for Styrene than true ABS) a try, since you've already tried CA glue, you'll need to use Acetone or an Acetone based nail polish remover to clean off all the Cyanoacrylate residue from the pieces to be bonded; otherwise, the super glue gunk will prevent the solvent from doing its voodoo. And if you do try this repair, you may also want to file down the knurling on the metal hinge pins a bit to further reduce stress on the hinge and prevent future breakage.
×
×
  • Create New...