Jump to content

mechaninac

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4189

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by mechaninac

  1. mechaninac
    Well, the VF-9 is actually a little smaller than the VF-1 -- so is the VF-2 from MII; the VF-4, VF-5000, and VF-11 are only slightly larger.
  2. mechaninac
    Agreed; but in all fairness, Gubaba was the one to interject politics with his little drive-by post.
  3. mechaninac
    ^
  4. mechaninac
    AFAIK, only Nippon-Yasan gives you the option of paying at any time between preorder placement and official payment request, which they usually send out one to two weeks before an item's release. AmiAmi invoices upon the official release date, and I don't think they offer any prepay mechanism as they do not factor in the shipping charge, based on your method of choice but subject to change at their discretion, until the item is ready to ship... and they DO NOT allow cancellations except for very extraordinary circumstances.
  5. mechaninac
    Methinks someone has a lesbo fetish... first Frozen, and now LoK.
  6. mechaninac
    I sure hope the last episode ever will be a 2-parter. After Kuvira going all Orguss 2 on Republic City, a single half hour wrap-up will be either very rushed or leave a lot of loose ends. Sad to see this great series end, though.
  7. mechaninac
    ^This is the Interwebz... reflexive, preemptive nitpicking is a time-tested worldwide sport.
  8. mechaninac
    Two ways to deal with a stripped screw boss on something made of plastic (ABS in this case): 1) Fill the hole with slivers or shavings of the same ABS and use plastic weld to bond it all together. The fill material can be acquired from the toy itself by removing some ABS from some internal, hidden, surface. 2) Source a slightly larger diameter screw of the same length and head size to use on the stripped boss. It'll cut/form it's own thread as it's worked into the screw boss, which will not be stripped as far as the fatter screw is concerned. The through-hole in the mating part may need to be drilled larger to accommodate the new, slightly wider, screw.
  9. mechaninac
    You can get a super cheap rotary tool (specially if you use a coupon) with several bits, including cut-off wheels if I'm not mistaken, at Harbor Freight ... The least expensive option is single speed and rather weak on torque but should do the trick.
  10. mechaninac
    After a bit of regret at not pre-ordering the original Renewal release, waiting a long time for this reissue, a great deal of disappointment during the frustrating nanosecond long availability window upon opening of pre-orders, acceptance of paying above MSRP in order to secure one with Nippon-Yasan, anger at being fleeced by Play-Asia taking money upfront and failing to deliver and shortchanging on refunds, scoring one off CD Japan shortly after P-A trouble; I have just received my very first VF-25S; took exactly 3 weeks for delivery from Nippon-Yasan via SAL unregistered. I can now consider my Renewal collection complete. I do have a second one coming, also SAL unregistered, from CD-Japan which I intend to either leave MISB or sporting the Armor Packs I've had waiting since those were released.
  11. mechaninac
    I wonder if there is a screw removal kit (Example)made for screw shafts smaller than 1/8" (3.175mm). The use of such an extractor would be the perfect solution to this problem. However, if the screw remnant is not buried into the boss, and is actually protruding above the surface, and free of adjacent obstructions, then cutting a slot for a flat-head screwdriver with a jeweler's saw or file, or rotary tool cut-off disk, should work perfectly.
  12. mechaninac
    Please don't mince words, tell us all how you really feel...
  13. mechaninac
    At the risk of further derailing this thread, I'd like to add my two cents: Had they used the midichlorians as nothing more than an indicator as to a being's Force potential, instead of THE reason for said potential (the greater the Force affinity the greater the bug count, instead of the other way around) -- let alone the whole concept of these bacteria consciously, or by happenstance, impregnating a woman -- the whole idea would have been far less idiotic... and it would have preserved the metaphysical nature of The Force presented in the original trilogy.
  14. mechaninac
    My vote on these types of topics has been, is, and forever shall be for the VF-2SS Valkyrie II with removable SAP as my #1 -- nothing else even comes close -- choice. #2 is a tie between the VF-2JA Icarus and the VF-5000B Star Mirage (M+ version).
  15. mechaninac
    If they don't happen it's not because of the consumer for not wanting to pay the exorbitant SRP, but Megahouse's fault for pricing this thing so high that even most prospective buyers say H3LL NO, so that only those truly diehard collectors with money to burn will consider the purchase. I know this toy is targeted at a niche within a niche inside of a niche market, but that price is just ridiculous. I'm still holding out hope that the Imai kits will see a reissue.
  16. mechaninac
    Promo pic from the next Pacific Rim flick?
  17. mechaninac
    If you're referring to the toys, their plastic is super brittle... screw bosses and such tend to disintegrate.
  18. mechaninac
    If it ever goes on sale for half off, then I'll buy a single one. And don't forget, there are also the Orguss II Olson special and the Brown Orguss 2 for mold milking purposes, with very few unit specific parts, as possible future releases...
  19. mechaninac
    Yes, these toys are mostly ABS. The stuff to use is a solved based plastic weld (plastic cement) -- Methylene Chloride. Edit: That's quite a break... hate to see stuff like this happen; it will never be unnoticeable once fixed, but it can be done satisfactorily if care is taken. I would suggest drilling a couple of holes to both pieces -- properly aligned, of course -- to add metal pins ( sewing pins are perfect) for added strength and stability. Drill, insert pins, push parts together, add weld with a brush to the break and let capillary action carry it in, increase pressure to join until excess plastic oozes out, maintain the parts pressed together until the weld cures (24 hours or more is best), scrape/cut the oozed plastic scar off, sand flush, polish to restore the surface... Done.
  20. mechaninac
    Got my shipping notification from CD Japan today for the Ozma I snagged a couple days ago -- a serendipitous replacement for the one that got cancelled by Play-Asia, and despite getting fleeced by P-A on the refund, the end result actually saved me money. Now it's a race to see which arrives first, the one from N-Y that's been in transit for about a week, or CDJ's... both SAL.
  21. mechaninac
    To me, this is actually good news... my wallet can let out a small, albeit fleeting, sigh of relief.
  22. mechaninac
    Maybe the 1/40 transformable kits will be reissued again. There is absolutely no way in H33L that I'm dropping that kind of scratch for this toy, although I'd like to have one. ¥20000 would've been pushing the limits on the reasonable-O-meter; for ¥35000+S&H, they can keep it.
  23. mechaninac
    This is Arcadia, so I wouldn't count on it.
  24. mechaninac
    Got an order in with CDJ, thank for posting the link. I'll now have two Ozma 25s. At $132 (PayPal) shipped, not only does this take the sting out of P-A's shenanigans, it's also saved me money over P-A's price, but also reduced my average cost. Thank you, cinello, for providing the link.
  25. mechaninac
    I didn't find it horrible, just bad and tedious (I found Battleship, as insipid as that was, to be far more entertaining, for example)... and incredibly derivative. And since sequels are almost always worse, often exponentially worse, than the first movie, the chances of improvement are minuscule at best.
×
×
  • Create New...