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mechaninac

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Everything posted by mechaninac

  1. 1/100 = Bandai Hi-Metal; there's a good possibility that this line is making a return this year o in 2016. 1/144 = Not going to happen... too small even for a parts-former, let alone perfect trans. My wish has always been, and will remain until the day I cease to exist, for an Arcadia or Bandai perfect transformation 1/60 VF-2SS with SAP, engineered and manufactured to the highest standards that either company have demonstrated with some of their latest releases.
  2. ... and if you're not too partial to Arcadia's VF-1J 30th "clown in a tux" version, and don't mind spending about $3 more, there is Yamato's VF-1A CF DYRL? Movie version which may still be available: http://www.hkcollectibles.com/macross-robotech/7119-vf-1a-movie-with-optional-parts-30th-anniversary.html
  3. ^Keep an eye on CDJ and HLJ; they may reopen their listings shortly before, or upon, release... others may as well, and there is always N-Y as a fall back -- they usually manage to get additional stock to offer at inflated prices.
  4. You just wrote that you stopped one foolishness to concentrate on others; so, still foolish...
  5. Sadly, Hot Wheels lost the license to produce Ferrari die cast 1/18 replicas; and instead of awarding the license back to Kyosho, or to AutoArt or Minichamps, Scudaria Ferrari decided to go with Maisto/Bburago... what were they thinking? Maisto and Bburago have never produced anything of satisfying quality to a serious collector. Hot Wheels Elite series are a very good value. I have their F-430 -- fantastic, their F-458 Italia -- excellent, and La Ferrari -- I find it a step back from the other two in terms of quality and execution, but still pretty damn good; none of them are as good as my AutoArts, but then, none of them cost north of $150, either. So, in the foreseeable future, Ferrari 1/18 collectors will have to settle for crude and cheap, and toyish looking offerings from the new licensees, or track down out-of-production Elite and Kyosho (I have Kyosho's F-40 Lightweight and Testarossa, both are sublime)... while Lamborghini, Bugatti, McLaren, etc. have AutoArt and other high-end companies handling their properties' 1/18 representations -- at least in part, Ferrari decided to go low-rent.
  6. Mine is in SAL untraceable La-La land. I'll get her when I get her; it usually takes 2.5-3 weeks, but my last SAL shipped order from amiami took almost 6 weeks to arrive... that had me thinking I had incurred a loss.
  7. I rather like the idea of a roughly 18" (45.75 cm) 1/350 injection-molded version... the resin one on Starship Modeler, besides being out of print, was very expensive; and just think, it would be in scale with a number of real world war ships, the big Enterprise sisters, and the just released Colonial One from N-BSG, as well as a number of SF resin kits, including the still available Radiant VII from SW-TPM.
  8. Chances of a 1/72 Rebel Blockade Runner by Bandai or anyone else are immeasurably slim to none. The 1/350 resin kit at the Starship Modeler Store is approximately 18" (45.72 cm) long, which would make a 72nd scale version in molded styrene and ABS be 87.5" (222.25 cm) in length... that's over 2 meters! The most you can hope for would be a 1/200 Tantive IV (31.5" = 80.01 cm -- still very large); even a 1/144 would be an immense 43.75" (111.13 cm). Edit: Even if one were to go by Wookieepedia's claim of 150 m length, at 1/72 the model would still be over 2 m (208.33 cm = 82.02").
  9. I have a hard time picking out one particular piece of my Yamato/Arcadia/Bandai 1/60-ish Macross collection as my absolute favorite; however, if I were to single out one, it would have to be the hardest and most expensive to replace out of the bunch: The Yamato VF-4G.
  10. ^ Why wait? They've been up for preorder for about a month+ at N-Y.
  11. ^Whoa, whoa, whoa! No dissing the Fett Man!... I'm with you on the Stormtrooper looking wrong; but to me, all the reimagined Play Arts Kai SW figures look wrong.
  12. This Starship Modeler link might prove useful in addressing some of your questions.
  13. I caved and preordered one as well.
  14. That YF-30 IS tempting, but I already have a copy, and I only need the one.
  15. Other than the upper half of the forward fuselage/nose, the cockpit canopy, and the battroid head's visor/face, the CF 171 and EX versions are exactly the same.
  16. No such "luck". It's a limited edition, so the preorder window will be open for weeks, tempting you to relent and commit all the while... On the "plus" side, you'll have that much longer to decide to pull that trigger.
  17. @ derex3592 Nypon-Yasan is you friend... htpps://www.nippon-yasan.com/201-macross
  18. Regarding tools: Good scissors, #11 X-acto knife and/or razor blades, Steel ruler (to use as a guide for the knife/razor and as a bending tool by itself, or as an aid to the razor blade), Low tack tape (the drafting kind would be ideal) to hold parts together while glue dries, and without causing damage upon removal, Glue (White Elmer's should work); two-part epoxy cement could be useful wherever extra strength is desired Lots and lots of patience. Edit: Something else that I just thought might be useful are plastic sheets to use as backing for large areas; if cut to shape and cemented to the paper model's inside surfaces it would help prevent buckling. Edit 2: anyone else with further input, please contribute.
  19. I got mine a couple of days ago... now to muster up the courage to start cutting.
  20. ^Ah, the Pakleds... because everybody knows that the galaxy wouldn't be complete without a species entirely characterized by obesity and room temperature IQs.
  21. The plastic is basically the same for Yamato's VF-19s and Arcadia's YF-19, mostly ABS. The difference in surface finish is a function of the tools cavities' being either highly polished (gloss), or textured (matte). Here's a way to wrap one's mind around the concept, a practical visualization aid, if you will: Get a chunk of modeling clay, or even silly putty, and mush it against a wet (so the clay will not stick) mirror -- it will come off looking glossy; now take the same clay and press it against a rough surface, like a sheet of fine-grit sandpaper placed on a table, or even a piece of cloth resting on a flat surface -- the clay will be imbued with a non-reflective matte finish. Heated plastic injected into a mold will flow like a low viscosity taffy into the tool's cavities, and just like the clay, will adopt the finish given to the surface(s) against which it contacts, and retain said finish upon cooling and ejection from the molds.
  22. It took almost forever and a day for the S to see a reissue; so, although it may take some time, a rerelease of the G is nearly assured.
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