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mechaninac

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  1. mechaninac
    ^Isn't it gorgeous?... Now, somewhere out there, is a P1 ---preferably in volcano orange or yellow--- with you name on it. Can you hear its Siren's song telling you buy me, you need me in your life?...
  2. mechaninac

    Fixing my 11B

    mechaninac replied to close313's topic in Toys

    Plastic welder formulated for ABS (also known as plastic cement, liquid cement, or plastic solvent) is absolutely the way to go... stay away from Super Glue. It would be best, if at all possible, to disassemble the shoulder so that you have unobstructed access to the affected part. Add a single small drop to the split and clamp it until molten plastic oozes out. Let cure at least a day, then trim/file down the "scar tissue" (the now hardened oozed out plastic). Lastly, sand down the area with a fine grit sanding stick or sand paper to eliminate file or knife scraping marks, and finish off by polishing the area with a fingernail buffing stick until it matches, as closely as you can get it, the surface sheen of the rest of the part. Once everything is reassembled, it should be hard to tell that the crack was ever there.
  3. mechaninac
    True, but there is no rule that would prevent Disney from continuing the series -- if it's making them money -- past Rogue One, ANH, or even ESB, as long as they don't interweave too much,or directly, into events shown in the movies; after all, the Rebellion's struggle against the Empire is bound to have many fronts.
  4. mechaninac
    There is an easy way to correct, or at least ameliorate, the hogging effect/upper arm to forearm gap on the Toynami Alpha: The peg on each forearm needs to be trimmed down by 1mm ( a little over 1/32") off the end opposite the wrist to compensate for the misalignment with the slots on the legs; or the slots can be lengthened* away from the feet thrusters by the same amount (either operation can be easily performed with a X-Acto knife); or a combination thereof. Doing this alleviates the mismatch that causes the arm sections to pull apart and/or the back to arch. It's not a perfect solution, but it's mostly unobtrusive and improves things a bit. * I actually prefer this option as it's both easier and will not weaken the pegs by making them smaller. Edit: made some corrections.
  5. mechaninac
  6. mechaninac
    I just Googled that.... Hot damn!
  7. mechaninac

    Hi-Metal R

    mechaninac replied to joppewo's topic in Toys

    I'd say your chances are pretty good, as long as you do so within a few days-weeks of release. It's very possible that N-Y will have some stock available, at MSRP if you're lucky, or more likely with a mark-up; then, there is eBay, etc...
  8. mechaninac
    Those Italian highway patrol cops have all the cool toys, don't they?...
  9. mechaninac
    Gorgeous! And so the stable grows... To this day I have never purchased any yellow vehicles... that has to be remedied some day. The Gallardo in my collection, a regular LP560-4... AUTOart of course, is Monterey Blue.
  10. mechaninac
    ^ Bitchin!
  11. mechaninac
    I have the exact same one... you'll not regret it. Do you also have an example of their F1s? I've got one in Platinum Silver and the detail on it is jaw-dropping.
  12. mechaninac
    That Italian Flagged Miura looks awesome! 200 pieces?... I thought I had "issues" with 40... I'm not worthy.
  13. mechaninac
  14. mechaninac
    ^ GT Spirits are resin cast, not die cast; they are mostly static and of a closed shell design: no opening doors, hood/bonnet, trunk/boot, and no turning wheels (they do spin), and no engines. Go to their web site for more info. There are a few UT branded ones on eBay that are the more traditional die cast fare available right now. Hope that helps.
  15. mechaninac
    I've been collecting 1/18 die cast cars for some 15 years, so answering that question would require an inventoried list 40 items deep. They range from a couple of inexpensive Maistos and Bburagos when I first started, to the most exorbitant CMC I just acquired; however, as I've become more demanding and sophisticated, the bulk of my collection has increasingly come to consist of AUTOarts. One of these days I should take the time to take pictures, catalog the loot, and post them here... a scary prospect as it will make me come to terms with just how much moolah I've dropped on these thing over the years.
  16. mechaninac
    Got N-Y's shipping notification email for my RA yesterday... better late than never, I guess.
  17. mechaninac
    Neither one were cheap, that's for sure... still reeling. The 1:18 P1 in Volcano Orange is absolutely stunning. I almost pulled the trigger on TSM's version about a year ago, but then AUTOart announced theirs, and when the orange was released I pounced on the least expensive copy I could find... and I don't regret it one bit. The second is the 1:18 CMC M-136: 1938 Bugatti 57 SC Corsica, to be exact. Even more of a wallet killer than the P1 (even if I was able to get it at well under MSRP), but, much like the real car, it's a veritable museum piece... and I'm a sucker for 1930's automobiles They're like rolling sculptures that just ooze class and style from a bygone golden age of coach-builders who imbued their creations with as much beauty and grace as the technology of their day and their skills would allow, costs be damned.
  18. mechaninac
    Another 1/18 die cast aficionado. AUTOart, am I right? This just got delivered last Thursday: And this, about a month ago: Between these two expensive beauties, I'm completely tapped out for my die cast budget for the next year or two ... but they're stunningly gorgeous
  19. mechaninac
    Today marked day 10 since I got the preparation email from N-Y. I'll give them until next Monday before I submit a ticket... I gotta say, even my patience is beginning to wear thin.
  20. mechaninac
    Tragic, I tell ya. It's an omission that demands rectification...
  21. mechaninac
    To your coworker...
  22. mechaninac
    And we have a candidate for MW diehard fan/collector of the year... We, who cannot afford to bite, salute you.
  23. mechaninac
    Well, I stand corrected, intrigued, and cautiously optimistic.
  24. mechaninac
    Other than a poster no one can confirm to be real, and some have affirmed is fake: No.
  25. mechaninac
    Pull the fin-hinge assembly out of it's slot on the leg. Isolate the area with the break with scotch tape. Knead small portions of the 2-part epoxy putty together until homogeneous. Apply to break and let cure. After curing, apply pressure to it to see if it comes off... if it does, use super glue to reattach. File, sand to shape. Paint to match. I removed one of mine to check, and upon close inspection, it occurs to me that this is a piece that could easily be manually carved from a block of Evergreen brand Styrene, or equivalent.
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