mechaninac

You know, looking at those pictures does make the LVII look rather nice; however, it also makes me wish that it had been made out of a, as yet non-existing and perhaps hever to be made, VF-1D dammit. Sigh... 1/48 VF-1D...

Like I said, obtuse in the extreme. And judging by the following quote: I wasn't the one displaying anger. But I do admit to justified frustration.

How obtuse can a person get??? Seriously, get off your self-assigned high horse and quit the insufferably pedantic diatribe... it does us both a disservice. Besides, who named you the official Macross KNOW-IT-ALL? Opinions vary, deal with it! This is not a question of who is right or wrong regarding artwork and its relation to what is seen in the anime. This is about Yamato's choice in which forearms go where within their own line of VFs. All DYRL? 1/48 VFs have the closed elbow extension, and all officially designated TV Valkyries (1Js all) have the open end. The CF is not labeled as a TV VF-1A, it's named a Mass Production type so it falls in between the two extremes insofar as the toys are concerned: it uses the forearms previously utilized on their DYRL? offerings, but it also has the TV pilot and sticker sheet, as well as the fat hands... it's an amalgam, a chimera; and it is the only one that really has this inconsistency as all the non-canon Valkyries don't count. Haterist explained it more effectively and succinctly than I did, so if you want to know where my opinion lies, refer to his post. As far as I'm concerned, calcified opinions are almost impossible to overcome, so I leave you with your bias and I'll stick with mine.

I hear ya! I've got the Garland on pre-order and the waiting is killing me. And I'm trying my best to resist the urge to buy this LVII... it turned out a hell of a lot better than I expected from all the pre-release images that were posted.

I misunderstood nothing. It's a difference only in Yamato's case, and nowhere else (every model and toy I've ever seen of the VF-1 in any scale 1/144 or larger has the " [ " shaped elbow extension irrespective of TV or DYRL?. Like I said, Yamato made the distinction, not I; and comparing a Hasegawa model with a Yamato toy is like comparing apples and oranges, and the only thing I gather from Hasegawa's interpretation is that they chose to be more accurate to the line art and more consistent in their VF-1 versions -- saves money on tolling too. Yamato, on the other hand, decided to introduce a line-art accurate forearm for its VF-1J which was released in it's TV incarnation, hence Hikaru in his TV flight suit, and subsequently the M&M 1Js (both indisputably TV only Valkyries) with the same style forearms. One could, therefore, make the assumption that Yamato decided to have 1J specific forearms (the more likely scenario, although I cannot be certain since I do not have their Stealth 1J for reference), or had the initial intention to have a distinction between their TV and DYRL? Valkyries (a possibility disproved by their CF release -- likely derived from a family mold tool issue).

The discrepancy between the TV and DYRL? forearms is greater than just the black stripe, which is just paint application; but there are some surface details that are version dependent. The elbow extension on the TV version, for example, is open in a " [ " shape whereas the DYRL? version is closed. The forearms are but one of a number of differences between Yamato's TV and DYRL? offerings. The flaw in logic is Yamato's in not maintaining consistency in their VF-1 releases, vis-Ã -vis DYRL and TV specific components. They choose to make the pilot, fat hand inclusion, sticker sheet, and packaging the defining factors while ignoring the airframe. This would make more sence if they had never made TV specific forearms, but they did for the 1Js, so not using those in other TV VFs is a bit odd. As for the LV and Stealth Valkyries, any discussion of where they belong in the great scheme of things is somewhat moot since they are non-canon.

the answer is no, and the sticker sheet also is dyrl version，so this is a dyrl repaint version, no like the CF-1A and stealth VF-1J, both are TV version VALKS 406161[/snapback] The only minor flaw in that logic, and trust me your reply makes perfect sense, is that the VF-1A CF comes with DYRL? forearms. Yamato's reasoning often baffles me.

The Delorean does have its charms, but it suffered greatly from the poor engine choice. Ultimately, it is such an icon that it just screams '80s cheese. I still like the way it looks though... so I like cheese!

I've received packages with toys at work, but I don't have the temerity to have any of my stuff so conspicuously displayed. I think it comes down to two reasons: first, even though I am a designer/engineer, having toys around my workspace just seems too unprofessional; second, I would hate to have to justify the presence of a toy, most notably a transforming fighter/jet plane, to any of my coworkers, specially the female ones. Now, if I were in the toy industry all bets would be off and I'd have several pieces prominently displayed, and call them research and inspiration.

Hey, not bad. Yamato could always call it the LV 3, Snow camo Valkyrie.

If it wasn't for parents trashing all your stuff, where would the collectors' market be? Comic books from the "Golden Age", baseball cards, classic toys, etc. wouldn't be worth 1/10th what they fetch today at cons, eBay, and other venues if not for all the purges from all the kids' rooms and attics across the generations. It has happened before, it is happening now, and it will happen in the future (some of you may even be guilty of this at some future date when your kids' crap, to you, become too bothersome to endure), in a never ending cycle of clueless destruction that make those with the resources to hoard these treasures to peddle them at huge profits at a later date giggle with avarous glee.

Mac II VFs would be great in either 1/60 or 1/48, but mecha from VFX, M+, M7, and M0 would be fine by me as well. And add me to the phalanx of collectors who would love to see 1/60 and/or 1/48 Destroids and 1/60 Zentradi mecha made by Yamato. If I had to bet, however, my money would be on a VF-4 ( VF-0A, D and SV-51 notwithstanding ) , since I believe it to be one of the most requested VFs that have never been made in toy form.

One must admit that these 1/100 offerings look considerably better than the MPC versions they foisted on an unsuspecting fandom (so glad I discovered Yamato before buying from Toynami). However, the one thing that really bugs me about these toys is the lack of a transparent canopy and cockpit interior. At 1/100, having a non-opening canopy with a modest cockpit to add a bit of visual interest would have been quite doable and added very little to the production costs... heck, they could have left the interior in a solid grey color and it still would have looked better than the solid, light blue, cheap-out they decided on (if the toy hasn't been shown with a clear canopy by this point, it's a certainty that what we've seen thus far is the final version). The endless regurgitation of variations of the VF-1 design in toy form from different manufacturers is wearing rather thin. Do we really need yet another Valkyrie at this point? Therefore, the only way I see myself buying any of these is if I can score one at less than retail (probably a CF or Max 1A or a Hikaru 1J) as a singular unit, and not MSRP for a three pack...who needs three of these things? And then, only to act as an accompaniment to my VB-6 KM. Now, if they would only produce Destroids and enemy Mecha, in this scale, I'd be all over them (depending on the price vs. quality quotient). I'd love to see a 1/100 Mac II with full articulation, but that is just wishful thinking.

Bastids!... there goes another $150+. When will it end? Please say never...

Thanks for the review. I was already heavily leaning towards waiting for the DVD release before watching this movie. Your review clinches it. It seems to me that just like "Master and Commander", this movie adaptation manages to turn a good book into an exercise in boring mediocrity. If anything, all the controversy, legitimate and contrived, will have the effect of having the movie make more money than it deserves were it to stand solely on its merits.

I'm interested in 1 1/48-1/60 sheet and would also get a 1/48 GBP set. PS.: Any chance of including 1/60 GBP stickets with the 1/48 GBP sheet if it is ever made?

Here is a good set of files: 12-PIECE MICRO FILE SET Or These: MINI DIAMOND NEEDLE FILE SET Or you could even try these: MICRO-SIZE PRECISION REAMERS (SET OF 6) You can probably find a decent mini or micro file set in a good hardware store, probably for less than at MicroMark, and definitely cheaper than at a brick&mortar Hobby Shoppe.

Use a small, round, jeweler's file to enlarge the hole by a small amount. Use the file in a twisting motion into the existing hole and remove a bit of material, then test to see if it will just fit on the peg(s) while still maintaining a good interference fit (peg's diameter just slightly larger than the hole diameter). If it fits, stop; otherwise, repeat the filing and testing until you're happy with the results. If you don't have a file, you can use a #11 blade to "carve" the hole larger, or you can use a drill bit. Hope this proves helpful.

A fortnight huh? Bet you've been itching to use that word in a sentence for some time now... at least a fortnight. j/k I'm still not convinced about the stealth. The glowing testimonials are beginning to wear me down, but I---must---resist---impulse---to---spend---more---money---after---VF-0S. Trying to stay within a budget, and beginning to run out of space to store/display all this great stuff sucks!

The small amount of acetone does not have any deleterious effect on the plastic as the polish dries too fast for any serious exposure. You wouldn't want to soak the toy in the stuff, but as a component of nail polish it is quite safe. Superglue, on the other hand, while non-corrosive, fast drying, and permanent, has one major drawback: it outgases like crazy and can leave a nasty residue on clear parts that is near impossible to remove without sanding and polishing; also, if you get even a slight amount of it on your finger while in contact with the plastic you will have a permanent fingerprint "texture" on your toy. I'd rather go with a gasket where possible and nail polish for harder to access areas. But that is just my opinion. PS.: Just got my VF-0S from TMP (those guys can package!), and a cursory look reveals that everything is copasetic with regards to QC issues... I can't say anything about floppiness/looseness yet as I haven't had a chance to transform and pose it yet.

Now you gone and done it.....

Given their M0 license, the F-14 and Mig-29 in 1/60 scale would be no brainers, and welcome additions to display along with the VF-0S. I voted for 1/48 & 1/60. There are very few 1/48 scale, real world fighters, out there, and most of them leave much to be desired, so a Yamato attempt at a few of them could be interesting; and 1/60, I don't think there are any... too oddball a scale. As for 1/72, there are enough manufactures out there covering this scale to make one more player redundant in the extreme.

I expect to get my VF-0S next Wednesday... just got a shipping notice from TMP. I'm both a little anxious from some of the indicated QC issues, however minor, and bubbling over with anticipation based on all the pictures shown by those who've gotten theirs already. I can't wait.

Welcome aboard. I don't know if you've been lurking long before taking the plunge as an active member, but you should find your stay an enjoyable one. Most members are very helpful and friendly around these parts. As for the use of charcoal, or any other type of weathering powders, the very fact that they are easy to remove/clean is the reason I don't think they are well suited for use on a toy, as they are primarily intended for static, don't-you-dare-touch-me, scale models. A toy is meant to be handled and this manipulation will cause your hard work to smudge, acquire fingerprints, and re-deposit in places where you did not intend them to go. Therefore, unless you are going to give the toy a clear coat of varnish (Dullcote, Semi-gloss, etc...) to protect your work, which would defeat the "easy removal" aspect of the medium, then I would advise you against their use. You may find that using ink, or diluted enamel or acrylic, or a gray fine point Gundam marker, to do the panel lining on your new baby will be enough to enhance it's appearance without adversely affecting the playability of the toy. And you can also use these methods to create special effects like battle damage and fluid streaks that will be much less likely to be damaged from moderate handling. Hope this has been of some help. PS.: Of course, if all you intend to do is display the VF in a single pose, in a dust proof cabinet, for the rest of its days then powders would probably be okay.

I like the "mental image" balloon, and the remark about the Llama wondering the same thing... priceless!