Berttt

No worries bloke, I would hate to see anyone make the same mistake I did. I got it when I didn't know anything about airbrushing, and didn't know anyone who did. Cheers, Berttt

I have an Aztek A430, which is only a basic version of what you are talking about. Still dual action, but no restrictor for paint flow. I have nothing but trouble with it and would not buy another Aztek. I am now on my second body (replaced via warranty) and a mate in our modelling group has been through three. The nozzles wear out if you do a lot of modelling (I get about 12months to two years out of a nozzle), where as another member of the group has been using a Pasche VL for at least 15yrs with no trouble at all with the brush or needles. I have also been informed that the Aztek's warranty period has been changed from lifetime to 3years only. I have also heard of Aztek A470's breaking internal bits that operate air flow. As for ease of clean - you can't disassemble the body, so some paint will remain even after shooting a cleaning agent, and using the little red tool that comes with it, and despite being informed by the documantation you will have to diassemble the nozzles to get them clean. The fact that it is all plastic doesn't help either as I have broken a cup and three bottle lids as apart of everyday use (i.e. not dropped or abused, one was found to be broken when I opened the box) Cheers, Berttt

That could be your problem right there, I don't know about anyone else, but the Testors external mix airbrush that I have is ordinary (I won it in a comp), about the only thing I would use it for is pianting groundwork on a diorama. In fact it has sat in a drawer having been used once to see how well it worked. Do yourself a favour man and get an internal mix airbrush. The external ones work on the principle that air passing over a hole will suck the paint out and atomise it in the air. Internal mix airbrushes actually push the paint through a hole and over a specially shaped needle which gives a far greater result. If you can't afford to get one right now, shelve all you projects and save up untill you do. Once you have one you will never look back. Search the forums for which one to get as the topic has been discussed before. Cheers, Berttt

Thanks, it's always good to find out there is something else out there. While we are talking about big monsters has anyone tried building one using that paper monster as start? How big it is when printed on A4 paper anyway? Thanks to a HD crash I don't have those files anymore so I can't do my own checking...........but if someone was to post a link or e-mail me them it would be great. Cheers, Berttt

Did search of MW plus google and couldn't find anything on it. So if you have some info cough it up cause I am curious. Cheers, Berttt

Is that the one featured in one of the links above?

What /72 scale Monster?

ROFLMAO........... I like this guys thinking. Berttt

I need a Hasegawa Low Vis decal sheet for one of my projects, does anyone have the part number? My apologies for hijacking the thread. Berttt

Put me down for one Cheers, Brett T

Ah so that was you then. Well thanks again Grayson, the difference between my first valk (is now a parts donor) and the second was huge, especially in the area of the U/C doors.

I have just completed a VF-1A Super as well as a VE-1 with wheels up. I stole WM's idea if reinforcing the doors with a bit of styrene on the back (see above post). The next step I stole off someone else on these forums (thanks whomever you are) and used two balls of epoxy putty (Milliput) in the wheel wells and pushed down until everything sat flush. After waiting for the putty to harden, I used some surfacer (a-la WM's method), sanded, and viola! The good thing is the doors stick to the Milliput so there is no glue squeezing out of the gaps to make a mess. Couldn't be easier.

No no no no no! LSTO, Grayson and 007-vf1 stop it, you are chasing away all the crappy models I want to see. I would post pics of mine but alas, no digital camera.......but one day, oh yes one will be mine. Berttt

Why don't you turn this thread into a "Who has the Crappiest Model" thread, no good kits allowed, just pure amateur talent. When I first started out after a big break in modeling, one of the most daunting things to see was all these great kits out there, and compare them to the shapeless lumps sitting on my desk, so I say let the parade begin! To round it off you could add what it is you learned off that particular kit. Personally I try to learn something of every kit I build, first it was seam filling, next was airbrushing, then a bit of weathering, my current build ( a 1/72 Thunderbolt) is going to be finished in natural metal. After that will be scratch building/conversion etc. Cheers, Berttt

That's nice rate of effort there bloke, You have more models on your shelf than I could produce in a couple of years. Cheers, Brett

Well I have never used Future so I cannot comment on what will or will not disolve the stuff, but the first two will definitely react to mineral spirits. Here is what I do. 1)Apply base colour, doesn't matter if it is enamel or acrylic. Allow to dry thoroughly. 2)Apply acrylic gloss clear coat, I am not sure how long I usually leave the stuff as I model in fits and starts, but at least a couple of hours, depending on the weather. Make sure when you are done that the surface of the kit is shiny. 3)Using mineral spirits and artist oil paint I apply it sparingly. 4)After about an hour or so I use a paper towel or cloth and gently wipe away the excess 5) after allowing the wash to thoroughly dry apply the acrylic matt clear coat. It definitely sounsd like whatever you are using is a solvent for your clear coat, or your clear coat has a bit of a rough surface which will trap the pigment in the wash. Hope this helps. Brett

Kind of reminds me of the "Fanta Can" scheme that RAAF Macchi and PC9's used to get around in.

To be perfectly honest a raffle is not going to sway me on buying the kit or not. For example I would have purchased the booster regardless, it's just that the raffle made the deal a little sweeter..........maybe alittle too sweet Back to the lauch rail, I said it once and I'll say it again........son of a bitch.

Son of a bitch

I fully agree. That is some awsome brush painting ability you have there, to me it looks airbrushed. Brett T

Why would you want the armour removable? It is a model not a toy, for $20 bucks US just go an buy a second Battroid. Make it a dedicated mould, for the same reasons I don't like full action variable kits. With a dedicated kit you end up with better proportions, and it is more sturdy for display or transport with and no awful attachemnt holes etc. And as for the old Imai 1/72 scale Regult kits, they may be readily available, but for $80.00 or so it's not much of a kit. I would rather spend a little more and get something that has far finer details, and maybe including the options bits to make it a Light/Heavy variant. Cheers, Brett T

That's not fair, why can't I want to vote for more than one of those options! Anyway bring on the regult series light/heavy/recon I say. Brett T

LOL that about sums it up alright

Thanks guys, like I said before I am going to make a new base for this which should turn out a little better. I have a Super VF-1A in Max colours that I am working on right now (and have been for most of the year) that is almost finished, I'll post pics when I'm done. For those that haven't seen it, do a search and look for the Tigermeet VF-11 that I posted a few months ago. That's about it, I'm still learning all the skills need to finally get to a point where I am happy with my work, but I have a cupbaord full of kits that have to be built and my rate of effort isn't quite up there yet. Brett

I used the 40/60 ratio of Wood Brown and White as called out in the plans using Gunze acrylics. At the moment I am torn between acrylics and enamels. I like acrylics for their ease of clean up, and the fact that oil washes don't effect them, but enamels spray on like a dream, and tend not to run as easily when very thin. Also the kit has been subtly pre shaded, but unfortunately does not show up in the pics. I don't think I will pre shade any more as it is far easier to post shade, on darker colours I now use a very thin mix of dark grey ar black, and on lighter clours I use Tamiya smoke. All I need now is a new airbrush (to replace the crappy Aztek 430) and I'm all set. Thanks for kudos guys, the main reasons I visit MW is to see if there are any new kits that have been posted, so I thought it would be nice to share.