Jump to content

captain america

Members
  • Posts

    3514
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by captain america

  1. An "only" 80cm long model poses some logistical issues and would probably end up being hand-applied epoxy rather than resin. Like molding and casting a baguette Oh, and here are a couple pics of the Salan Scout: 1/2500 and 1/5000. The latter is not yet done, but you get the idea
  2. Hi Chas. It's actually a mix of Super Sculpey and Sculpey III, both of which are heat-hardened clays. I haven't used Chavant in years; great stuff, but not suitable for certain applications. If anything, the one BIG down-side to the Sculpey clays is that they're super brittle, and the master will likely be destroyed upon demold, so my mold has to be done right the first time.
  3. Last 2 pix. That takes care of the 1/2500 version, now I'll be turning my focus to the 1/5000 ship. Once that's done, I'm on a short vacation and then planning for the Cat's Eye
  4. The HP-C has the paint cup built into the airbrush body; the advantage (to me) is that you can clean it much better by using a spray bottle to get windex (or similar cleaner) in there, as well as a Q-tip to really wipe away any traces of paint residue. The problem with suction-feed (glass bottles) is that if you just dump cleaner in the paint bottle and suction it in, you will always invariably have a small residue of paint that will accumulate on the paint feed tunnel. Over time, that can accumulate and eventually restrict the flow of paint, or, depending on what colors you use, the previous color you sprayed might "leech" into the new paint you're applying. Also, suction feed is a bit of a PITA if you're just spraying with a very small amount of paint (like when touching-up, etc) and is a bit more wasteful. Further, you have to make sure that the tip of the suction tube is fully immersed, or you'll get an air "hiccup." This is not to say that it's a bad system, it's actually a good airbrush for medium/medium-large areas to be sprayed, whereas the HP-C is more for small to medium jobs. As with any airbrush, just make sure you clean it religiously, and never let it sit or put it away dirty. Remove and clean the needle after every use, or better yet, after every color you spray. If you use it a lot, I recommend disassembling it and putting the main parts in an ultrasonic cleaner overnight. All this might sound like a lot of work, but it becomes quite routine after a while; I've had my HP-BC for over 20 years, and it still works excellent.
  5. Hiya Jesse! I have a few guns myself: Iwata RG-2, Iwata HP-C, Iwata HP-BC, Iwata Eclipse, and even an old Badger dual-action. If you want something with multi-use capability, I would highly recommend the Iwata HP-C or whatever the newest variant of that particular airbrush is. Loads easier to clean than a suction-fed unit, plus it's a real workhorse: easy to maintain, reliable, and capable of very fine work.
  6. Actually, I think that the canopy in the top pic is more bubble-like, whereas the bottom is not. Just have a look at the hoop spar right behind the pilot's head. Slightly OT, does anyone else find it funny that they managed to get a really clean windscreen on a VF-1, but its much more advanced sibling, the VF-25, has to make do with a canopy spar that's right in the pilot's direct line of sight?
  7. I told you, NO LOGAN!!!!!
  8. A resin FAST pack system wouldn't be ideal, since it would put a considerable amount of stress on the landing gear. Somehow, I get the impression that Hasegawa will eventually produce a Super/Strike version. In fact, I'd be very surprised if they didn't.
  9. Quite possibly, yes. Though due to the nature of the Salan Scout, it will have infinitely fewer parts than the Garfish.
  10. I wasn't a fan of the "Lucifer" 27, but the green unit looks quite nice indeed. Replace that silly long gun with something more a propos, and it'll really give the design a new lease on life. I'm not going to budge though, I want my 1/48 VF-25. You hear me Bandai!? YOU HEAR ME!!!???
  11. More cucumber madness! In all fairness, I could have cut corners and simply duck-taped some cucumbers together with some corn nibblets, but I choose to take the difficult path.
  12. The detail is looking quite good; I'm pleasantly surprised! ...Shame they didn't mold the wing flaps & slats separately.
  13. Am I the only one who finds it funny that some of the fugliest mecha designs in human history are Gundams?
  14. One zillion Quatloos! Actually, no price in mind, it's just a private project for the time being.
  15. I've thought about it. The biggest issue with the Zentradi ships is that they're quite large, so aside from the scout vessel, even at 1/5000 scale, they would be quite a handful. Alas, we shall see...
  16. ...And also 1/5000
  17. ...Because I have nothing better to do...
  18. Ugh, it's like watching the Go Bots do their impression of Cirque Du So Lame. Wake me up when it's over.
  19. Sounds like an expensive idea.
  20. I think there's a very high possibility for that.
  21. With that train of thought, what's the point in watching ANY film based on historical events, since we already know how it's going to end? <--see what that logic gets ya? I for one am enthusiastic about this project. Flame on!
  22. Been there, done that; Kaiyodo PVC figures circa 10-12 years ago. The word is that Nagano didn't renew their licence because he felt the quality did a disservice to the franchise. The next best thing may be Volks' new 1/100 plastic models. The Bang Doll actually looks... Not bad.
  23. The Bandai models, particularly the variable ones like the VF-25, while they do possess some toy-like qualities, do not generally lend themselves well to the idea of being transformed back and forth between modes, and much, much less so if they are painted. At best, I would recommend nothing more intensive with a model than some careful re-posing.
×
×
  • Create New...