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captain america

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Everything posted by captain america

  1. You know that all the resin I use is the same, I just pigment it differently... Right? Ball-joints: I make mine custom, based on what the design requires. This will be a fairly tall (about 20cm) model, so with the weight I would advise against trying to make it posable.
  2. Continued… DSCF5067: this is the main body/cockpit module being hollowed-out. DSCF5068: a crude cockpit assembly minus the transparency. This will be a particularly complex portion of the build so I want to take my time with it. DSCF5069: the "battle bra" cups in their initial form. DSCF5070: some ball-joints will be needed in the kit at the shoulders, elbows, and the hips so a little bit of work on the lathe will help take care of those. DSCF5071: after much Dremeling of the chest module as well as some hand-sanding, the part is developing some lovely curves. The drawing looks like a lot of simple blobs smushed together, but that's easier said than done in 3-D. Lots of back-and-forth between Dremeling, sanding and puttying starts to go on at this stage in order to make sure that everything mates together perfectly. In this particular pic, the "battle bra" is being fitted to the chest. When the putty begins to harden, I'll be able to carve the excess putty with a knife, and then sand it smooth later with rough sandpaper. DSCF5072: More press-forming, this time for the shoulder pads. What I haven't photographed but remains a significant process in the build is the Dremeling. I try to avoid using the camera at those stages because it produces a tremendous amount of dust which isn't good for electronics, but trust me, there's no getting around it. DSCF5073: speaking of which, here's a fine (much pun intended) example of the process. The shoulder on your right is fresh from under the Dremel, while the one on your left has undergone some manual sanding as further refinement. The last three pics are of what I have done so far, crudely mocked-up. So that's what almost 8 days of work looks like, and still many more to come. Enjoy the show, and be sure to tune-in again next week!
  3. Captain's Log: Friday August 8th. I had bacon and eggs for breakfast as a personal reward for a long week of work on the 1/48 Goh-suu. In fact, I had started a few days early simply because I was getting excited and wanted to take advantage of the few extra "empty" days at my disposal. This is turning into a more fun project as I progress into it but allow me to start at the beginning so that I don't get too far ahead of myself. Big things have humble beginnings, and so it is with the Goh-Suu, which shall hereinafter be referred to as King Crabb The Merciless! So yeah… As with all significant projects, line art and specs are collected from various sources on teh interwebs, studied, and then technical drawing begins. I think that more than any other Inbit line art that I've had to deal with, these have to be the most utterly inconsistent of the bunch, so technical drawings are a must! DSCF5058: Once those are done, they are printed to scale and I then select some semi-appropriate blocks of modeling board and assemble my basic working tools. DSCF5059: since I have to hack the board with rough cutting saws, the cuts aren't perfectly straight and so comes one of the most important steps in the process, which is taking a rough cut block and making it square. DSCF5060: large blocks are milled square on my trusty old milling machine. DSCF5061: next, the technical diagrams are meticulously cut-out… DSCF5062: from the large modeling board blocks, smaller blocks are cut on the band saw… DSCF5063: stencils are affixed to various blocks with spray glue… DSCF5064: and then those blocks go back under the band saw to be refined yet further. DSCF5065: more complex components (in this case the cockpit hatch frame) will go from the band saw to the mill, back to the band saw, to the grinder, to the Dremel. A lot of thought has to be put into specific operations so as to avoid losing reference points. DSCF5066: here we have a few parts that are starting to actually look like something. More to come later today
  4. Hi guys, I've been grinding away on the masters and will have a first update ready tomorrow or Friday. Keep those payments coming
  5. Okay guys, today is the official kick-off for the Goh-Suu project so I'll be contacting you via PM with the shipping fee, etc., which is technically the same as for the Blueberry. I may or may not have already started chopping modeling board
  6. Who's George?
  7. That's certainly an idea.
  8. Sure thing, just send me a PM. I will start shaking people down for moolah this coming Friday as I kick-off the project. Prepare your wallets accordingly
  9. Production went about in stages from late 2010 all through 2011. I had re-worked and added details that weren't there in the original 2001 sculpt, new composite joints, the whole 9 yards! Best. Legioss. Evar!
  10. Now THAT... Is a major case of crabs!!
  11. Sooo I had a bit of time today to work on some preliminary chicken scratchings...
  12. I like that blue, but more for an Eta Legioss. For a Gamo I tend to think that a more subdued blue (mixed with a bit of grey and just a drop of green) would be ideal, but that's me.
  13. Oh, most definitely! I'm sticking to my plan to commence operations August 1st.
  14. It always depends on the specific mold. I usually limit castings to about 30 per mold for quality purposes, even though I know that they can produce more castings. The Gamo molds were really exceptional in that they survived for 40+ good castings. Smooth-On has definitely improved their rubber, and this combined with a new secret technique of mine helps to extend mold life. The 30 kit threshold is also the minimum limit which allows a new project to break-even.
  15. 25 orders in such a short time. Should be well-booked by August 1st
  16. I'm thinking August 1st so as to give people a bit of breathing room during the vacation season. Yes, payments with shipping up-front.
  17. Yes, the stats show that it's about the same size but more detailed and with a more complex parts breakdown, hence the price.
  18. Yes, free-pose means no moving parts. At least one member modded my Gurab (Pinky Space Crab) with ball-joints. It's certainly feasible, but I opt not to do this to maintain as much authenticity in the joints as possible despite their often unrealistic design. Also, ball-joints make a resin model more fragile due to the overall weight so I leave that compromise to people who really want it.
  19. Well that, plus the fact that there are ZERO prospects on the horizon from any official kit/collectible companies, who probably regard Inbit offerings with as much enthusiasm as an anchor by a drowning man. The very few (garage)kit iterations of this mecha which I've seen have been disappointing to be put mildly.
  20. The time has come for the heavy artillery! So here's my proposal: a resin kit in my usual style and quality that will have the following features: -free-pose build (build it in the pose you want), fingers too. -the option of having open or closed missile bays (shoulders) -translucent canopy with detailed cockpit interior (no pilot though) -can be built as the dude or chick model (just sand off the head antenna) I'll also look into making the cockpit hatch open with the seat deploy. Worst case you'll have to choose open or closed build versions if the hinge mechanism is too intrusive/complex. We'd be looking at a price-point of $215 Canadian bucks (about $200 US) and I would need 30 orders to get the ball rolling. Who's with me?? I will also accept payments in Bitcoins for the brave pioneers among you
  21. Last call for the Spartan kits. After this week they will be available through eBay only.
  22. Just a heads-up guys, kits will be shipping Wednesday and Thursday!
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