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captain america

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Everything posted by captain america

  1. Thanks Exo. Just a heads-up on the decal files guys: be sure that you delete that blue-gray background before you print. I had put that in there simply to make the white elements visible, in case people wanted to make some changes.
  2. Hi guys. Decal files are done, but I can't upload them to Macrossworld. Is there someone that can host them?
  3. I've been "retired" for about a week now and it feels odd. I've begun slowly dismantling my workshop on my off-hours and wondering whether to put my equipment in storage or outright sell it.
  4. Quick Monday update: casting is done, unless there are any last-minute orders. Most of the kits are packed, I have JUST NOW received the first half of my shipment of Kotobukiya hands and I'm about 2/3 done with the destructions, which will likely be posted tomorrow. Shipping will begin on Friday, and will begin working on the decal artwork next week.
  5. Just a heads-up guys: I will leave the ordering window open until Friday November 13th in case some late-comers want a crack at a kit. After that, I close up shop, set the Galactica on a collision-course with the sun and disembark.
  6. Indeed, the hip joints are a simplified version of what I have on the 1/32 kit, but made in high-strength polymer. You will definitely have to pin the joints with brass rod though because even with partially hollowed-out parts, the kit is very top-heavy. Despite that, you can achieve extremely wide stances and dynamic posing.
  7. Hey guys! Sorry if I haven't been too active in the last week or so, I've been working furiously getting the casting done as well as mocking-up my kit for pictorials and instructions... And waiting seemingly for ever for HLJ to ship the hands. That being said, behold:
  8. Hi guys, just wanted to let you all know that kit production has begun in earnest. Hands have been ordered from HLJ and should be arriving in the next week or two. I decided to go with these hands in the end since they seemed like better quality: http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-29 As such, balance payments ($92 CAD + shipping) are now due. Shipping fees are as follows: -Canada/USA one kit: $25 -Canada/USA 2-3 kits: $35 -International, per kit: $50.00 *Also, please make sure that if there are any PP fees that they are covered on your end. That being said, if you already have the funds in your Paypal account, there should be no transfer fees: these only seem to arise if you withdraw from a bank account or credit card. Just a useful nugget of info I picked up. For anything else, please feel free to PM me
  9. Hi guys! A quick little entry from the Captain's log book: I don't generally go into the molding details, but as this is my last project I figured that it might be useful for folks looking to keep the legacy alive. Pic 001: I took to the habit of using plexiglass to make the sprues and gates for my parts. It's a tough, durable material that can be reused as needed. I try to take a piece that's large enough to allow me to hold it securely, then, using the band saw, I cut out little squares and rectangles based on what I need to attach it to. Studying your part and determining the best points for resin entry/air exit is the key to well-cast parts. Pic 002: my ever-trusty glue gin. I use the smaller, translucent (low melt) glue sticks because the glue is easier to remove from the masters and does far less damage than the yellow glue. Your parts will need to be grease-free, cleaned with rubbing alcohol to ensure a good bond. Pic 003: I generally use hot glue, but if a part is relatively simple with few undercuts, I will use CA to bond the sprues/gates directly to the master component. This is not always a good strategy for thin/delicate parts though because as you're demolding, the flexing of the mold can cause the sprue to break off, resulting in damage to the master. The use of discernment is highly advised. Pic 004: now the parts are hot-glued to a plexiglass base, over which I have placed the plastic tupperware mold support and traced the outline of the container to make sure that all my parts fit harmoniously within the limits. It's a bit of a delicate procedure and may require some adjustments. Once again, the base and the sprues have to be absolutely grease-free to ensure the strongest bond possible within the limits of the temp hot glue. Pic 005: with all the parts glued, I use a marker to indicate cut lines and also a quick note on which is where part directly onto the plexiglass base. This will print into the silicone and allow me to better orient my scalpel when de-molding to minimize damage to the masters. With this done, I seal the plastic tupperware container (bottom removed) with temp hot glue onto the plexiglass base, around the parts. Now will come the pouring of the silicone rubber mold material, but that's for the next update
  10. Hey guys! Just a quick update as the mold-prep phase goes into full-swing. There will be at least 7 large molds so this will take some time, but I should be done by the end of next week.
  11. Indeed, you have to be careful when using either pastels or graphite because that sh*t just gets everywhere if not used very sparingly. I happen to find that it's an excellent weathering medium and if you think about it, burn/exhaust marks are essentially carbon, so very realistic. Best thing is to use a 1/4" paint brush or something slightly smaller and work it on gradually, and it adheres best to flat (rough) surfaces. The advantage is that for most painted surfaces, you can simply wipe away the excess with a damp sponge or Q-tip. Be warned that it might etch itself into matte surfaces more tenaciously though. Definitely a good compliment to airbrushing.
  12. Aaand here are thew overall pics! Some parts are notably absent or crooked due to me not being able to glue parts together without damaging the masters. It really is just a pint-sized version of my 1/32 kit but with all three heads and minor cosmetic upgrades. Missiles: they are not separate, they will be molded as a cluster which itself is a separate module from the missile bay. This is necessary because the kit already has a very high parts count, but also because I made the missiles with enhanced prominence (for visual appeal) and consequently, you cannot close the bay door with them in place. Hands: you might have noticed that these do not figure in any of the pics, and rightly so! I opted to use Wave F-hands, so with your kit you will be getting a set of plastic "manipulators" which should make the building process that much less tedious Next comes the instructions principal photography, followed by mold-prep. Stay tuned!
  13. Apologies for the delay, camera batteries needed to charge and I ran out of time so the rest will be posted tomorrow. Detail stuff for now, like the back and how the nosecone and fins fit/fold together. Enjoy
  14. Hi guys, just a quick heads-up: modeling part is done, just doing some minor surface detailing and riveting; will have pics of masters come Wednesday.
  15. Hi guys. Quick progress pics of where I'm at. The next batch of pics will probably be early next week when all the masters are done. All the big stuff is done, I just have the beam cannon and little details left... Almost there!
  16. Hi Bill. I just want to say thank you from the bottom of my heart for all the kind words. It's been an honor to have you as a customer and even if my commercial scratchbuilding career is nearing its end, I will look back on this period of my life with fondness and remember all the awesome people that gave me a chance and supported me all along the way. What I was able to do, I could only do because of your support! And while I'm at it...Captain’s Log Friday, September 25th!! It’s been a loooong week and I’m starting to get there. I’m actually quite a bit further along than the pics show, so expect another update early to mid next week. That said, on with the show… DSCF5606: part of the wing and Leading Edge eXtensions taking shape. DSCF5607: the engine nacelles and the inlet area. The latter begins life on the lathe and will be carefully blended to the nacelle, going fron perfectly circular to angular. DSCF5608: head parts in their early phases. DSCF5609-10: the shoulder module in its early stages, requiring lots of milling operations. DSCF5611: the thigh part gets some detailing work in the form of the yellow/gold sensor housing. I used the putty-molding technique because I want both left and right sensors to be identical. DSCF5612: the arm will have a very respectable range of motion to accomodate many different poses. DSCF5613 and 15: while not outright variable, I wanted to make perfectly certain that the proportions of the parts are true for all versions, so I elected to mock the parts up in Fighter mode. You can’t see it in the pics, but I made some slight alterations to the wing profile to optimize transient performance and reduce turbulence along the wingtips… Who else loves you guys enough to do that?
  17. Just a quick shout-out to you guys: because of the new customs forms, I do need your phone numbers when shipping and I still have empty slots for the following members: -sbantonelli -RKSC -DarkArchon3000 -Ghadrack -DarrinG -Wave-one -WWWMWWW -Reflex -Jennety -Neptunesurvey -Petrov27 -Tober -squigglysquid Otherwise I can't ship with tracking. Thanks in advance:)
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