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captain america

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Everything posted by captain america

  1. The glue may yellow ever-so-slightly over time, but does not affect or yellow the styrene like cement because it's not a solvent. The translucent armor mounted to the frame is glued from behind with a tiny amount of glue, so shouldn't show. The other advantage is that if you change your mind or want to remove the armor, the glue can be removed with your fingernails, leaving the plastic unblemished.
  2. A shameless plug for the die-hard MOSPEADA collector: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=44048
  3. In a highly humid environment that's possible. Adequate ventilation will allow the cyanide to escape without depositing on the part, and you can also use tape to cover unglued surfaces as a precaution. I only recommend the CA glue for parts like the heels and the fanny anchor on the LED's butt because those parts are load-bearing. All the others pretty much mount on the frame, and that can be done with wood glue. It's possible that some cements like Tamiya extra-thin will yellow the plastic less, but it takes up to a year for discoloration to take effect so it depends on how lucky you're feeling.
  4. The armor of the resin LED Mirage kit was cast in clear resin: it looked translucent because it had a slightly rough (satin) surface finish. Therefore, all one had to do was polish the surface and/or add a cleat-coat to make it clear again. The IMS kit is actually molded from milky white plastic, so no amount of polishing will increase its transparency. Also, be cautious when working with the translucent IMS parts, especially when separating them from the sprue: avoid twisting or cutting with pliers too close to the part, or it will leave an opaque white blemish. You may also want to look into using CA or white wood glue on the parts, as regular styrene cement can cause the plastic to turn yellow.
  5. I was skeptical when I first saw Optimus as a long-nose rig with flames, only to be pleasantly surprised with the movie. We don't know if that's an alternate Hotrod paint job or any other details yet. I'll wait and see before tossing the movie under the bus.
  6. They've really come a long way with the plastic FSS kits, to the point that I consider the plastic versions to be superior in many respects compared to their resin counterparts. The fact that a lot of the Vatshu's armor plates are separate adds an element of detail and realism that the molded-all-in-1-piece resin parts just couldn't convey.
  7. Just saw the movie and wasn't impressed. At. All. It felt like a drawn-out T.V. episode with slightly better effects. I thoroughly enjoyed the first two films, watched them multiple times in the theatre and at home, but I was constantly staring at my watch for this one, waiting for it to end. Also too many dark + confusing scenes.
  8. I guess that means that the final film is easily a year away at this rate, assuming that they already have some basic groundwork laid.
  9. I don't think Dragon can legitimately be considered competition for Bandai at this point, more like comedy relief. Have they actually released ANY Star Wars stuff yet? They really need to get their sh*t together if they want to contend with Bandai, and Revell already occupies the "best of the rest" spot.
  10. More like a poor attempt at a Falcon, closer to what I'd expect from the likes of Revell. I can't help but wonder why licensees expend so much effort and money to cannibalize each others' market. What ever happened to their AT-AT, or Star Destroyer? Hey Dragon, here's an idea: why not offer us some 1/48 T-70s, or Y-wings or B-wings? You know, something that another company hasn't already brought to market 50 times better for roughly the same price?
  11. Very clever using blue tack as masking, I've done that quite a few times in the past to great effect. Just a heads-up for others looking to try it: make sure not to use plasticine, because it's inherently greasy and can interfere with the paint application.
  12. 2018 might be just about the time Max Factory releases its Jaeger kits, assuming that these are even still in the pipeline.
  13. Hi Xigfrid, I'm basically starting my own brand of automatics. That hand-made prototype is just the beginning of what I started 2 years ago. I'm aiming for a $3600 USD retail with a full titanium case/buckle and Soprod A10 movement. Just like with my models, my motto is do it right, or don't bother doing it at all-- which, according to my engineers, turned into one of the most complicated watch designs they've ever worked on. You can check-out the Facebook link in my sig, or PM me if you have any questions.
  14. Excellent build, congratulations! Such a beautiful color scheme, who in their right mind wouldn't love this? Oh, and a little contribution of my own. Not anime, but definitely worth WATCHing!
  15. Smart move on Bandai's behalf, since I'm sure that they will offer a version with the extra gear and boxes later, knowing that die-hards will want both versions. It also looks like the sidewalls are Original Trilogy versions. The Captain approves!
  16. For what it's worth, pilot figs for virtually all Japanese mecha kits are undersized. You can try finding another pilot figure, though it may not fit in the cockpit. I have a bit of experience with this.
  17. My heart goes pitty-patt at the idea of a 1/72 Aluminum Falcon. Having gotten the 1/144 kit and marveled at the detail, I can just imagine how purely awesome it would be. Here's to hoping for a future release to go with the other 1/72 kits. *Prays to the plamo gods*
  18. Looks like you're in the home-stretch, derex. Excellent work so far
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