captain america

I love it when you guys share pics!

I realize this offering isn't legit, and the design was stolen from a Korean designer, but it's probably the best Voltron you can get by taping a bunch of cats together. Robot mode only.

Captain’s Log: Friday, May 31st This is me dipping my toe back into the Macross pool after an almost 4 year hiatus. As with every new project, the initial phase consists of gathering data on the specific subject, and then interpreting those views and using them as the basis for drafting a set of diagrams from which I can make the master patterns. While I would have liked to be more productive during this first week, but my band saw gave up the ghost just before I was about to start this project, so certain operations which should take minutes can take hours in stead, all in the name of wasting as little precious modeling board as possible. That aside, once those diagrams are printed, I proceed to carefully cut them out. One of the things I seem to accumulate a lot of are these triangular modeling board shapes,which are the leftover material from other projects. By themselves, these pieces aren’t terribly useful, but they can be combined to make decent size blocks… Provided you infuse them with a little elbow grease. I begin my making sure that these leftover pieces have perfectly flat surfaces, so under the mill they go. I can then glue two blocks together with some CA glue, more on that later. Diagrams are now affixed to the newly created block. If you look carefully, you can see the joint where the scrap blocks were joined. Two more scrap pieces that I will join to create a block. Once again, the joining surfaces must be perfectly flat for optimal bonding and rigidity. The two scraps are bonded with CA glue. You can see here that one of the triangular scraps was already cobbled together with glue from a previous project. Recycling level: master. That crude block must once again go under the mill to be truly squared, resulting in some loss of volume, but I prefer this than taking a hacksaw to a larger piece of MB. The completed recycled block, ready to receive my printed diagrams! Sometimes you have small parts that require numerous operations that can be quite troublesome, mostly because they’re small and hard to hold properly in a milling vise.No problem, here’s what you do: I take a smaller, perfectly squared block and CA glue it to one of the part’s flat surfaces, in this case the bottom. The wedge-shaped part below it is merely a spacer that allows me to mount the square stub closer to the center of the main part, and will be discarded as soon as the glue dries. Here is the part with the stub mounted. The milling vise holds the square stub, allowing me to more easily perform delicate machining operations. When the operations are completed, I simply remove the stub using some CA debonder, a saw or sometimes pliers; whatever I think will do the least amount of damage. The parts are starting to look like a shuttle… Or a space bus. Tune in again next week to see me turn mere junk parts into master patterns, the old-school way!

Rambo XII: The Return Of Trautman's Ghost On a serious note, Ill totally see this.

His helmet was probably what saved him by being yanked off his head and hitting the compressor face and causing the whole engine to belch before the rest of him could be sucked in. Regardless, probably his most terrifying moment. In other news...

Given how Bandai released the 1/144 Falcon well before the Perfect Grade kit, I cant help but wonder if they aren't testing the market with the more affordable versions while they work on those kits in larger scales... To be released at a later date if the market reciprocates.

Perhaps at a later date.

Since I haven't posted in this section for quite a long time, it's possible that fewer people will see it. Should you know people who might be interested in this project, please feel free to direct them here.

Greetings all, A fellow MWer would like me to tackle both the Zentradi drop-ship and Personal Shuttle as resin kits in 1/500 scale, and I was wondering if there would be any interest on your behalf in terms of resin kits? To give you a better idea, the Dropship would be about 22cm across, and have the following featres: -A separate hatch/walkway that could be positioned either open or closed -Hollow interior with detailed bulkheads -Optional extended or retracted landing feet featuring brass tube for rigidity. As for the shuttle, it would be 10.3cm long. No opening parts Estimated retail for both kits: $350 CAD + shipping Shipping fees (AIR parcel, no tracking): USA/CANADA: 37.00 CHILE: 77.00 AUSTRALIA: 77.00 HONG KONG: 72.00 ARGENTINA: 78.00 FRANCE: 70.00 For shipping rates to other countries, please inquire. PRE-ORDER SPECIAL: for those who make payment before July 1st, a set of two Regult Battle Pod figures will be included as a bonus with your kit.

So apparently, this happened. Just imagine the shenannigans when Stick, Ley and Yellow team-up.

This looks like the scene where Rey & the gang go deep inside the remains of DS-II to recover the old, circular radar dish that Lando knocked-off the Falcon during his run in ROTJ.

That would make more sense if he was crossdressing, or even in civilian clothes. Not sure it's appropriate with battle armor.

I can't help thinking that Sentinel's Blow Superior needs an accessories set of its own. Here's what I had in mind: -2 HBT cases, blue-gray color like in episode 5. -3 balloons w/brass rod for string (ep 5) -clear green visor -coffee mug w/decal (ep 4) -glow-in-the-dark dash panel -binoculars w/strap (ep 12) -molded in color, just like the MF set Price target: $50 + shipping. Thoughts?

Destruction files are up!

Fixed it.

Quick Friday update. Helper Crabb kits are cast and will be shipping starting Monday. I also wanted to provide a few pictures of the sensor-eye. It's molded as all one piece, with the sensor shape molded as a cavity on the inside. I added a coat of clear red which shows the detail in a very subtle way, but you can use silver/gun metal paint on the inside if you want the sensor to be more prominent.

Isn't the Horizont supposed to be something like 50.3m long according to the stats? 160mm is way too long (or wide) for 1/400, unless I'm reading that wrong. Nice kit, but I think it needs to be bigger.

This year marks the 15th anniversary of my garage kit enterprise. So much for my aspirations of being a fly-by-night operation. I think I'll carry that box art theme throughout the rest of the year's releases. Seems only logical.

Three: the eye, and two forearm blaster covers. 505thAirborne: from the looks of it, Sentinel seems to be paying attention, as can be evidenced by the saddle-packs and Gallant weapons to be included wth their upcoming Blow Superior release. They certainly get my approval for upping their game, as well as making great products. With regards to the Malar, it's definitely sturdy by garage kit standards, but it ultimately remains a kit. It goes together very nicely though, and the ball-joint tension is easily adjustable: sand the ball very lightly to reduce tension, or add a thin bead of CA glue to the inner rim f the socket cup to increase tension. Oh, and just by-the-by I realized that this year marks the 15th anniversary of my garage kit making.

Crabby godness!! The figure holds together with no glue, just the tension of the ball-joints! Will have pics of the clear parts early next week

Casting is a go! Making a few tweaks to the molds as I begin... There are more parts than for the Gosu, so getting everything poured in one shot is proving to be a bit of a challenge.

I cut the bottom of the tupperware out so that I can pour the silicone; the rim gets glued to the plexiglass.

Correct. Tupperware containers make great mold boxes.

Hi guys! Molding process is in full swing. For those of you who aren't aware, I like to pour my molds as one piece, let harden, and then carefully extract the masters using a sharp scalpel to strategically slice the mold open. The masters themselves are first hot glued to a plexiglass base, and rudimentary scribbles are made with a sharpie to guide my cutting. I used to loathe this process, because on occasion, a stray part would detach from the base and float to the surface after I'd pour the rubber, thereby ruining the mold. I seem to have solved this problem now by pouring bigger, more complex molds in two shots: the first pour only fills a thid of the mold box, which I let harden for about 8 hours before filling the mold box with the rest of the mold material. This not only helps to seal the gap between the plexiglass base and the mold box, but also helps to anchor the parts into place, thus reducing the chance that parts might detach from the base. Just figured I'd share a helpful trick.