captain america

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Hi Kurt. Yes, the clear resin has a tendancy to be quite tempermental, and I've had words with Smooth-On over this very issue. You can cook the canopy in the oven at 150f (not higher!) for about 4 hours and let cool. This helps to harden the resin and increase it's physical properties. According to Smooth On, even when the parts come out soft like that, they WILL eventually firm up, but because the material is very fickle when mixing, some batches will simply take longer to harden. 341013[/snapback] Captain, The canopy in the one sent for fearyaks is gummy as well. I will place it in the oven to try and cure it. While in the oven, will it soften even more? Should I support it while it is baking? Thanks. 341579[/snapback] Yes it will. You'll need to place the part on a cookie tray, and preferably a sheet of wax paper between them. I cannot stress how important temperature control is in this instance. The oven should be set to exactly 150f, not higher. For what it's worth, this technique does work in the long-term: I have a clear cockpit half from my Regult kit which I had never shipped-out, because it suffered from Gummy syndrome, so I baked it for 4 hours as suggested by Smooth On. THe effect was not immediate honestly, it took about 2 months, but the part is now completely cured and as stiff as it should be. This is the only reason I shipped-out the first few models with soft canopies: I knew that they'd harden with time, otherwise I would have simply replaced the parts before shipping 'em.

Yes. They'll be done tomorrow as promised.

Update. The following orders have shipped: -Zeta Otaku -The French One -Sephiroth -UN Spacy -JoLe727 Shipping next Thursday: -datterboy -Roy's Blues -wickedpr1nce -Xstoys -Exo

Hi Sean. I'd give it til the end of the week; I've found that there can be quite a bit of fluctuation in how quickly parcels are delivered; even within the same state. The fact that some from the first batch arrived litterally 4 days after I'd mailed them is honestly a fluke; the norm is 10 business days. If by the end of this week you haven't recieved it, just PM me.

Hi Kurt. Yes, the clear resin has a tendancy to be quite tempermental, and I've had words with Smooth-On over this very issue. You can cook the canopy in the oven at 150f (not higher!) for about 4 hours and let cool. This helps to harden the resin and increase it's physical properties. According to Smooth On, even when the parts come out soft like that, they WILL eventually firm up, but because the material is very fickle when mixing, some batches will simply take longer to harden.

Hi Datterboy. The Vanilla kits are really quite... Vanilla! Natural resin color, which is a slightly translucent white. Color-matching the Valks would have been possible with a neutral (clear or amber) resin, but since this stuff is already white from the get-go, that would mean adding an absolutely-strict amount of pigment per casting, which is near impossible for such a small mixing quantity. Heck, the Battroid head lenses were the worst: you could take 2 dabs of green paste which look absolutely identical, and one would give the resin just the right tint of green, while the other would turn the stuff pure opaque green; that's how potent the pigments are

Wow Gene, you're fast!! Got your 1D built-up before I did I'm prepping my parts as we speak, and I should have the instructions all done by wednesday.

The plastic becomes frosted as a result of the mold-release build-up in the mold. It can be polished clear using the same methods used for regular plastic canopies.

Thanks Ruskii. Not to worry Haterist; I wouldn't expect anyone to "guess" how everything goes together, so I'm going to do a (hopefully) thorough series of step-by-step instructions for the 1D set, with good, clear photos of the parts & how they go together... Much like I produced for all my other kits.

UPDATE I'm re-tooling my molds as part of my usual quality-control process. The bad news: this'll take a couple days The good news: new molds means fresh, consistent, high-quality castings for you. Sorry for the delay (again.) I only do it cos I care.

Dunno. Did you post in the thread requesting to be put on the preorder list? You can also refer to my very first post of this thread if you'd like instructions for obtaining a kit.

The canopy is indeed hinged, just like all the other VF-1 variants.

They shipped this morning. I waited a couple days so I could ship out a few more orders in one salvo. I'll be working like a dog all week catching up with orders, and I'll be starting the instructions as well.

Actually, yes! I can happily say that the kits for the following MWers have shipped. Please note: I'm only listing the names of those to whose address I shipped. If you have a combined order with a particular MWer, and his name is on the list, rest assured that your oder is combined with theirs. -Majestic -Fulcy -Deimos -Pat S -ruskiiVFaussie -haterist -knight26 -Fearyaks -1 VF-1 2NV -Gatillero -Vermillion One -Mechamaniac -Prometheum 5 -die alien scum -Major Tom -4evernewbie Shipping next Friday/Monday: -Sephiroth -Datterboy -Roy's blues -Zeta Otaku -The French One -Chowyunskinny -wickedpr1nce -UNspacy -Xstoys

Can we see a pic please Cap! 337423[/snapback] Unfortunately, I don't have a pilot figure to put into the rear bucket. However, the fact that the seat is the same size and is almost the same identical distance from the dash panel means that a figure should fit; there wouldn't be much sense in having a backseat otherwise Progress report: 16 castings done so far, and I'm re-tooling the canopy mold. First salvo should be shipping thursday or friday. I'll post the names of all the MWers whose shipments go out, so everyone can keep track of their stuff.

Cap, are those of us using a 1A for the "donor" valk going to be short on head laser screws? 336959[/snapback] Nope. The new 1D head only uses one screw, and it's for the neck mount (and comes with the Yammie anyway.) The 1D turrets fit into the head via pressure, but are still designed to swivel normally.

336734[/snapback] Mechanically, the body of the 1S/J/A are identical; any of which can be converted to the 1D. The conversions cannot be done partially however. ALL the conversion components must be used, or the transformation sequence will not function/fit correctly.

actually, the colored parts tend to vary a bit in color tint, so there's no way to get a precise match from any pre-mixed paint. In reality, the best thing would be to paint ALL the parts, along with the rest of the Valk. The colored plastic just makes things a bit more forgiving if you end up inadvertantly scratching some paint off, since it won't show as much.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=16389

Hi Haterist. You will not need to buy/use any new screws or pins to do the conversion; my kit uses all the standard screws & pins that already come with the Yammie Valk. Actually, you wil have 1 screw left-over when you're done. Aside from some minor spot-repair/flash removal, there are also a few holes to be drilled; these are for the head/neck joint & the hatch that lets the head through upon transformation.

Just a quick progress pic for everyone: these are the "pumpkin flavored" 1D kits being prepped for the baking process. They go into the oven at 150 F for about 4 hours to cure the plastic. I have 10 castings done, and a helluvalot more to go.