captain america

Dat, all I can say is... WOW!!! I was simply going to leave my 1D set on my regular 1J chassis, but seeing all the potential you brought out on yours makes me want to finish mine in full 1D colors

Thanks for the info guys. The prices really seem to have plummeted; I recall seeing the box-set for about 300 bucks a couple years ago. Damn glad I waited

Hi all. I was just wondering what the complete 36-episode Macross DVD set from Animeigo is going for these days. I realise that it's now discontinued but... Is it hard to find?

Hi all. Like the title says, I'm enquiring about the supposedly new Guyver series that's supposed to be airing in Japan at the moment. Has anyone seen it, and more importantly, is it available on DVD yet? I ask this because I'e seen one seller on E-Bay offering the first 12 or so episodes subtitled. I would've loved to get it, but he didn't take Paypal. Any comments from people in the know?

For any of my kits, the only thingyou'll need to do to clean the release agent off the parts is scrub them with an old toothbrush and dish soap in lukewarm water. I specifically use a mold release that is designed so the castings are paintable with minimal clean-up.

Hi Matthieu. Too late; I think I already shipped-out a new dashboard to you As for the little nub/hinge on the canopy, that can easily be fixed by gluing a small piece of styrene rod where the nub should be; I did that on my demo kit and it worked like a charm.

Cyanoacrylate (Ca) glue. Available from any good hobby shop or hardware store.

**IMPORTANT** I just yesterday discovered that I forgot to include the RIO console (part 7) in about 20 of the conversion kits which I mailed-out. According to my logs, the following people should have part 7 missing from their kits: -Zeta Otaku -Darkon -aaajin -TheFrenchOne -Gabe Q -min -Mech Gojira -Roy's Blues -Sundown There may be others as well. Please check your kits to see if you have this piece. If indeed it is missing, please post here in the thread, and I will begin mailing-out consoles starting Tuesday to all those affected. My sincerest appologies for my ineptitude in this matter.

Hi Andy. Looking sweet! When I was doing the masters, I had the impression that the backseater's feet would end up resting more or less on the tires of the landing gear. My ideal solution was to remove that backseat screw nub completely, but I figured that might be a bit too much 'surgery' for most builders, and wouldn't necessarily interfere with the pilot's legs anyway.

No problem. I admit that when you do this kind of stuff 9-14 hours a day, you tend to take even the simplest techniques for granted, and I sometimes have to put myself in the shoes of someone who only does these kits as a hobby, and things that may seem quite pedestriant for one modeler may be a daunting task for another.

The reason why I didn't offer to replace your canopy is that the missing 0.6mm "nub" at the back-end is easily fixed by sanding the area of the missing nub flat, then simply gluing the equivalent length of styrene rod in its place... Takes all of 96 seconds. I can show you some parts I have on japanese-made kits that cost upwards of **wait for it** -->$600.00<-- that have issues far worse than what you got in my conversion kit, but I don't gripe about them: garage kits are hand-made crafts, occasional flaws are common to EVERY gk, big or small, cheap or expensive. Had there been a serious defect in the pane (main transparency) of the canopy (crack, air bubble, etc) it would either have been rejected during packing, or replaced completely. On that same note, if you were so disappointed with the model when you recieved it, you could simply have e-mailed me prior to starting to work on it and I could have issued you a refund.

I'm sorry if you feel that my VF-1D kit is substandard. I've attempted to make it as user-friendly as humanly-possible, but I'm afraid that there are limitations to what I can do with even the best urethane resins and silicone molds.

*sigh* The canopy can be "unwarped" like any other resin: by placing it in warm water til it becomes a bit soft, then take it out, place it against the piece it needs to fit onto, and then, holding both parts together, run them under cold water to set the part.

Hi Roy. Yup, that's my auction. I didn't bother linking in the Auction section since pretty much any MWer will know to buy from me directly; I'm just using E-Bay to reach the fans that don't frequent the forums here.

As of Saturday morning, all paid orders will have been shipped. If anyone else wants a conversion kit, now's the time.

Hi Godzilla. Actually, the gummy canopy issue was resolved early-on into the project, so no more cooking of parts is necessary.

You're not?

There's a fine line between thorough, and just plain outright stupidity.... As can be seen in the pics aaajin posted. This whole thing just smacks of incompetence! As mentioned above, the box has flaps for christ's sake; all they had to do was open it in a NORMAL manner. They would have seen what they needed to see, and still be able to close-up the box good as new for the awaiting recipient--immagine that. I'm really starting to think that US customs are where the untrained monkeys who couldn't get hired by UPS go to flourish: about 4 years ago, I had shipped a hand-made model (worth about 10 grand, by the way) to a customer in California. The troglodites managed to somehow haul the model out of the custom-made crate, and then bash it good before repackaging it... Not quite good-as-new. Long story short, I had to fly out to Ca to fix the model myself.

True, the head has no locking mechanism in Fighter mode... Or Battroid, for that matter. The solution to this is actually rather simple, even if it's perhaps imperfect in the grand scheme of things: as mentioned in the instructions, you can (and should) use a small amount of CA glue on the neck joint parts: placing a dab on all the areas that have friction or rub against each other. When the CA glue dries, it is both hard, and slightly increases the volume of the contact area, thus increasing "tightness" and thus prevents the parts from flopping-around. As you can see in the pic below, the head litteraly "hangs" over nothingness. Without the tightness in the joints, the head would just flop backwards into the chasm below. Tightness is the key.

This is how it looks overall.

Time to file a complaint with customs and get those dumb-asses pay for a new set of FAST packs!

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