Vi-RS

Took me a month to wait for the package from HWJapan. I ordered Hasegawa decal sheet and package was shipped in 12/17 and arrived yesterday. Sometime SAL is really too long, but guess what HWJapan might have gone too extreme on packaging for a sheet of decal.... lol.

Shoulder will pop off easily and tend to break: The leg look pos without the covers:

well you ask for it. Don't be too disappointed when you see these, but these doesn't bother me at all. It's a toy. There are more, and I can take all day to point them out, but it doesn't make sense. To me I don't care about these sprue marks because it's normal on toy, it's like the mole, scars and discoloration on human skins that make it "normal". Even a real life fightger jet has uneven panel surface and replaced panels.

1,2,3,4,5.............I am counting when this thread get locked with all the similar post lately......

Yes both my defender and tomahawk have those marks, the weathering version is less obvious since they sprayed the paint on it to create the effect. If you look close enough there are lots of spryer marks on V2 as well especially max, millia and vt-1 which is pretty much self explanatory. You just need some final touch up if you can't live with the sprue marks and there is no big deal. Even a bandai PG kits have those sprue marks if you build it unpainted.

It is a raw plastic toy, not some painted model kits. All toy have the sprue mark and it will be much visible on dark color plastic. As far as I concern yamato has done a pretty good job hiding those mark, and if you understand how the mold works to cast the individual piece out then you will understand why the sprue is here but not there where both parts meet. Even a model kit will have the sprue at side due to the way part were molded.

I don't think Yamato is gonna do 1/48 V2, if they do I still won't buy them. I am a scale person and I want all my collection in the same scale with destroids, fan racer, Q-Rau.... etc

1/48 is done.

I was confused when people was talking about swivel pin or static pin. Since the knurled part is at the end and bites the shoulder's hinge, the pin should rotates in the same direction with shoulder when the shoulder is rotating so it appears "static" with the shoulder when shoulder swivel, and in fact it's rotating. On the smooth pin, the pin shall not move and remain static when shoulder hinge rotates since it doesn't bite the plastic hinge on shoulder hinge, but it really depending on the variation of diameter on pin. Please let me know if I get this all wrong?

Nothing is confirmed until you push the pin out for better view.

Fun little toy but the paint job is a bit disappointing.

I don't think it's a major problem. I have over 40 V2 and only one with the problem, and this particular one happen to have stressed shoulder, so the shoulder is a bit loose. The rest of mine V2 are all intact.

me too, touch wood.

I got it, I got it.....

light tint on the canopy is a good move. Thanks Graham. wow this V2 is constantly evolving. V2.0 - original release V2.1 - new shoulder pin V2.2 - new crotch system V2.3 - possibly a light ting on canopy V2.4 - possibly a better and thicker shoulder hinge With regards to the new anniversary VF-1S Roy and Hikaru that comes with torchlight, it's new production with new shoulder pin, but it came with old crotch system. I am guessing they are clearing the existing parts, so these are actually new assembled toy with new pins from old parts? The new unpainted Albino VF-1S is having old crotch as well, only low viz VF-1S and 2 seaters have to be newly casted since these have color other than white, so these all come with new crotch. I guess they still have lots of old mold parts in white color, so when is the cut off point until all white color old crotch molded parts are clear off from production line?

I guess the standalone GBP-1S armor won't be a good move to Yamato, I'd prefer they sell it separately if they are going to bundle with existing scheme that have been released like CF VF-1J and low viz VF-1S. I will agree to do bundle if the variants on GBP-1S is completely new scheme on the valkyrie as well. I dig the accessaries set, with neck cover, side covers of course and in fact why not throw them in as accessary for future release?

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=143

It's actually 3 millimeter taller.

Indeed, they even make the recessed on the chest plate smaller so that the head won't appear too high in battroid mode. I guess they are trying to avoid the nose cone hanging too low and over the wing tip in battroid mode like the 1/48. I will prefer if the V2 don't have to push up the entire nose cone 3 mm up and let the crotch attachment point up further 3mm right at the middle instead of staying up close with the red dot. However, the V2 is still the best in my book besides this and the uncertain hinge problem. Slightly adjustment on the chest plate might enhanced the appearance for those who hate the head sitting too high.

I don't think Yamato should sell for less with the Armored VF-1J. For those who think Yamato should sell for less, that means you can live with the fact that the shoulder hinge is cracked as long as you get 50% off the full retail or something like that. All the annoyance on falling shoulder become BS instantly, obviously quality toy is not priortiy but cheap price is their top priority in their books. I think Yamato should start doing recall or accepting replacement hinges or arm as FOC for those who bought the Armored VF-1J. That's it.

If Yamato makes 1/48 VF-1D, then the VF-1D will have a long neck so that the head can stick out from the shoulder in battroid mode, but it has to be somehow retract in fighter mode so that the head won't stick out and touch the ground. To me, kawamori line art and toys or model kits or even actual mechanism is 2 different stories. To say that the head on V2 is sitting on wrong spot is more like a vaguely argument. The main wings position on any transforming toy or model kits in battroid mode will never ever get closed with the lineart above. And also the mysteriously gigantic and thick shoulder reflectors which is as tall as the head.... To cut the stories short, to each of its own. It doesn't matter 1/48 or 1/60 as long as we find it fit our needs and perception of a valkyrie toy with the minimum quality problem.

Agreed, the vf-1j I got have slightly yellowish color on lower arm, hands and half valve of the intake. Then the overall valkyrie is much milky color while the head is pure white. The valkyrie is not that bad, but I do have anal eyes so the discoloration may not bother most people. It's still a nice toy and the armors is spectacular. However, the armors will be much better if they use BLACK COLOR SCREWS. It happens in automobile industry as well when you buy new model from the first bacth of the year.... and it gets better when it comes to facelift models at the end of years when most bugs were taken off.... lol

you probably have strong arm, but I have never heard that happen before on this forum.

Thanks for the pictures, eriku. It seems like your vf-1s is trying to say, "why am I albino.....?" lol.... Anyway, does the toy comes with new crotch or old crotch?

It's very obvious if you look at it under day light. I think the hands is made from different materials so I can understand the difference. I wish the whole line is made from light gray like the dyrl but I don't know why Yamato decided to go for pure white for tv schemes, another bummer.