vt102

Thanks for the tips all. Now i need to buy some supplies. i still would like to hear other's tips and techniques

Thanks for chiming in..... I will not use that clear. The one you are talking about looks white-ish??? And I can use the acryl thinner to thin it out... right? That will not harm the tamiya color coat???

Mr. Cheng... if you read this thread... I was wondering if this is the clear you use? I have had this for years.... but i think I used it once on a car model. I am kinda confused, cause the label says... enamel system, but the description says laquer? Could you please let me know. I am kinda scared to use it though, because it looks quite yellow.... see...... Let me know.....

Thanks! Cool to see everyones different tehniques. Let's see more of you modelers chime in! GU-11.... lets us know how it holds up. I know if you brush it on, it may be super shiny. It may be different when air brushing it.

Thanks for your tips.... I have seen the pro modelers wash, looks real simple to use, and an ease to clean up.

So I have been reading through some of master Cheng's posts an came across his VF-1 super build... and he had listed in one post his layers of paint. Quote: Just to be absolutely safe my paint sandwich is as follows: [TOP] ModelMaster Clearcoat (laquer based) -desired finish Tamyia panel shading & airbrush weathering (water acrylic) Decals Oils thinned down for panelling (Mineral spirits based ModelMaster Clearcoat (laquer based) -gloss or semi-gloss Tamiya basecoat colour (water acrylic) [bOTTOM / plastic] I make sure that each layer is sandwiched with something that has a totally different solvent base so that I can limit the interactions between layers. End quote: So if I am reading it correctly.... looks like he does not use a primer before painting the first color coat??? I have also see others do the same on youtube. So i guess if i use the same Tamiya acrylic paint... no primer is needed on a plastic kit??? Also.... what pressure does the air have to be set at??? Mr. Cheng never disclosed that information??? Could he or someone else please lets me/us know??? And I see he does his shading towards the end. But which would be better??? Pre shading before the first color coat, or shading towards the end like Mr. Cheng? Any advice would be greatly appriciated.

Sounds like you might be a tad too far away. I have not used the regular Tamiya primer, but it must be similar to regular non hobby type ones. I used to use my local auto store brand primer on my car kits... it went on pretty good, but could be smoother. I just bought a can of the Tamiya fine, and it does lay smoother than my local auto store one. But you could also sand the regular primer, to smooth it out a little....

And dont forget the 2 different Minmay ones too. I have one, but it is still sealed in the packages.

Cool! I was watching his how-to videos on you tube. I may have to try that one instead of the oil wash.....

Very nice start. I was going to tackle the same kit... Before I try my Hasegawa ones. I just got my new airbrush, and bought similar supplies Mr. Cheng uses for his washes... never did them before. What brand and type of wash are you using???

Hi. As far as future goes... I never heard of it being used as a primer?? They are great for clear canopies, or I even heard of people using them as a clear top coat... but not a primer.

Very nice! Cool effects!

Thanks... I still have not painted the non-scale pilot, but another member did recast them. I got 2 casts for supplying my original. And i am surprised my review survived... I thought it was lost forever....

Couple more.... gundamhead's launch arm: UNCM SD valk by Tanmen: Neograde 1/72 GBP armor for the Hasegawa battroid: