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Jasonc

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Everything posted by Jasonc

  1. If I still had the supplies, I'd probably be able to help you out. At the moment, I'm looking to purchase new equipment for recasting, minus the compressor.
  2. No, "Pot calling the kettle..." is suggesting hypocracy in the intended subject's statement. "Ignorance is ignorant", is simply stating the obvious.
  3. I wish it was only going to be about $400. Based on the hours spent, materials needed, hardware, it's going to be around $500+. That said, there's lots and lots of time before anything is done with this, so when/if time gets close to completion, I'll probably put up an inerest thread for it. Just to give you an idea, I've been working on one part literally all day, just one part, only to realize that the core section was designed wrong to begin with. So I'm starting over with it, and it should be done hopefully tomorrow. Thank God for the mirror function. I only have to do one part at time.
  4. Thanks!!! I used to make stuff from styrene and other materials, and still do to some extent when need to. With this method, you can still make stuff that seems right, but doesn't work the way it needs to. The good thing though, is the ability to look at the part, and make changes after it's virtually built. I will admit, some of these pieces are kicking my ass, just cause I'm not a pro by any means. I'm glad math is a strong suit, or I probably wouldn't be doing this.
  5. http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models/she/she_va3.htm That's the location here, that has pics of the box, the instructions, and just about everything inside the box. I believe you're right. The outside of the box only mentions VA-3, and no other variant of that. However, the pic on top of the box shows it under water in one of the pics. I'm sure they intended it to be an underwater efficient model, but I do agree, the M variant is a much nicer look. If I am able to get that far, I will try for that once this comes together. At the moment, I'm attempting to model the upper leg exterior piece. It's probably the most complicated piece so far, as it has a lot of arc, and curvature. Not fun, but it's slowly coming along. I also noticed during this part, that a connector joint was turned the wrong way (easy fix). If I finish this part in 2 days, I think it'd be a miracle. I'm also trying some new processes that will allow a smoother curve that what I've been doing before. Hope to have some pics up soon.
  6. "Do you remember, that ol' lullabyyyyyyyy". Sorry, the song is stuck in my head today.
  7. Are you referring to an original drawing, or something more like from a graphics designer using existing art? I've been trying to gather art for my M7 DVDs, and if I ask nicely, my wife may be able to put something together, as that's her profession.
  8. "Flash Crapper"??? "Light Rifting"??? I almost feel like I need to put those posts on ignore just because they don't contribute a damn thing, but they are so F'ing goofy.
  9. Watched it yesterday, and feeling like I really need that VF-4. Great freakin' homage to the show.
  10. Yeah, I don't see big gaps in mine, either. Seems pretty solid to me.
  11. You can add me to really enjoying the new banner. I also like the new kite bullet points in the forums as well. Just noticed those when coming in today. Nice touch.
  12. That's great to hear. Awaiting the update that says you're done.
  13. All the "Scoopda" is here already. Probably the last thing we need is a second thread to confuse where info is coming from. That's great and all, but why not just have it set to choose the original mono, or the crappy 5.1? Yeah, I'm sure there's a reason for it, but I think the overall consensus is that people don't really like the new SFX nearly as much as they maybe should. It's just one of those, "Yeah, you messed up" things.
  14. No doubt. That's pretty obvious, but I'm hoping Tom Bateman can come in and shed light on the issue on the reason HG decided to go with the F!@cked up sound. There in, lies the dual edge of the sword. As much as HG wants to claim that, people who are fans of the series will always prefer things that are closer to the original. To me, the original is way better, and it's the source of everything that Robotech was based off of, and even extrapolated from it. It also seems that if they try to move away from the original, they're screwed (AKA, Robotech 3000).
  15. I'd love to see a reissue of the 1/60 VF-1 Max and Milia w/ super parts. They should also do a 1/60 Minmay guard, and as someone else said, a 1/60 Low-vis 1A.
  16. It's the tips of the rounded edge of the connection that seems to break most often, but I've heard people sanding down the knurled heads of the pins, so that maybe an option. I don't know if that's been verified to work, but you can also try that. Also, you can try popping off the shoulder cover (they are held only by friction), and loosening the two screws there just a bit, which will help ease tension when positioning the arm. That isn't a perfect fix, just something that may increase the chance of not breaking. BTW, welcome to the boards. This is more of an issue that can be found in the toy section, but I see where you were going with the request for someone to design a replacement. There maybe other fixes, or suggestions under the "What's wrong with my Yamato/Bandai" thread.
  17. 3D printing can get them done, but just so you know, the materials that those printers use, isn't as durable as the plastics Yamato uses. The printing, or "growing" process, is usually used for Prototyping, or at most, items that won't need too much usage, or movement, like statues and static parts. My suggestion, if you're really worried about it, would be to recast the part in a Tasc aluminum based resin. When it cures, it's light, but very, very hard. The drawback is that the parts are a metallic grey. There maybe some other Tasc resin that's not as hard, but will cure in a white color. It's all about tolerances, but I wouldn't necessarily trust a 3D part on a high moving part like that. The other option, is to buy one of the unassembled kits if they're still around, and keep it for extra parts. That's if you have the expendable income.
  18. I'd be happy to get a VFX Ravens 19A, but a 1/60 Konig??? While it'd be cool, It'd most likely be int he $500+ range, and not something I'd be willing to spend that kinda money on. If they do have the VFX license though, the VF-4 in that game isn't the exact same as the one from Flashback. There's at least another variant.
  19. I totally get that, but I think the only thing you really have to understand, is that this is MW.com...the place where the panic button is pressed more than any other button on the face of the planet. I'm sure this toy will be expensive, unless they find more options to milk it. However, that's not something to panic about. It isn't going to cause the item to break, or isn't going to make your other toys fall to pieces. If people want it, and it's going to be a web exclusive, start saving now people. I'm saving up my money. At some point, everybody realizes that it's simply not something they can dictate, and they either go with their program, or don't.
  20. Whether HG did, or didn't use stuff from the Animeigo stuff is kinda irrelevant. The fact is, they royally screwed up on the 5.1 sound they decided to do. It seems the people they got to do the sound, they gave a lot of liberties to, and they took a lot of what people remembered out of it. The jets sound like 747s, not like high pitched performance fighters, the BGS sounds hollow, and like it's coming from a tunnel, and then you got the openings that are completely different. If you were hoping for it to be the same, it's far from it, and for a company that is really trying to sell nostalgia at this point, it's not a good selling point to change what you're selling.
  21. That was actually a good review of the transformation and everything. Just got home about an hour ago, and got to transform it, and play a bit with it. Impressive. As usual, you have to be very careful in some spots as to not scratch the exterior, but overall, not issues. It's a solid toy, and can pose very easily. The gun IS HUGE! Bigger than remember it, but for a large Valkyrie, it seems to fit very well.
  22. Back of the knee outside plate done. This part connects the upper and lower leg together, and sandwiches together in fighter. I will (again) probably redesign the joint pieces to either be made in metal, but I am most likely going to make them into ratcheted joints. For that, I am thinking of the old jetfire ratcheded joints that were in the legs and arms of those toys. They locked in place very well, and were designed for younger kids to play the hell out of them. That said, this kit most likely is going to be made of TASC resin, which is much stronger than the basic resin, metal for the pieces that have high friction and/or need the support, lots of screws to hold in place, springs for friction adding, and the same type of steel pins that are used in the Yamato Valks. The pins will probably be used for things like the cockpit to open and close, as well as smaller moving parts that need a straight guide, such as the tail fins perhaps. Also, I'm going to look into the Wave joints, and see if I can use those in the construction of the feet, for some posable issues that would benefit from them. Anyone's ideas and suggestions are welcome, if you have an idea that would work well. My goal is to make this like the Yamato unassembled Valkyrie kits, except having the majority molded in correct color. Anyways, I just have a couple pieces left of the upper leg that make the inner part, then it's feet and cosmetic parts.
  23. I guess I know where one of my other presents is going towards.
  24. Mine came in, or so I was told. Can't wait to get home from my short vacation to see it.
  25. If they can tell a new story with the same characters in an interesting way, then yes, I'd be interested as well. But to just have a small story of what happens at the end of SDFM, it's just unnecessary. I prefer the idea of integrating new mecha, new characters, into new situations, while keeping just a few degrees of separation. It keeps the story from getting stale.
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