Jasonc

As for Resin, I think the only limitation for the way the system works in using it in whole, would be the older resins that weren't put in the new bottles that feed it. That seems to be only because they're phasing those out for the better performing new resins. That said, they should still be able to be poured into the tank directly. I totally forgot to post pics of what I printed so far, but I will say that I'm thoroughly impressed with the strength of the Tough 2000 material. I have worked with many other resins, and this is by far, a serious engineering style resin made to work with mechanical properties.

I'll post up some pics a little later of the parts I printed, but it does do some pretty cool timelapses from the camera. I will say that the latest Preform software that they use for this printer does some amazing work for the auto supports, with breakoff supports that don't leave divets. RC 1_60-COCKPIT-BRACE0-ANTENNA-TOP-X2-RABBIT-1-20240629.mp4 RC 1_60-THRUST-TOP-X2BIT-1_60-BODY-REAR-HALF-R-20240628.mp4 Now I just need to position some of these timelapse videos so that the best parts show on the camera side. These printed parts are now in a heated cure station, and when I get home from work, they should be toasty and ready to do the final smoothing out.

So this beast of a machine showed up 2 days ago, and I've been spending the last day and a half creating the space for it. This is the Form 4. It has a few things that separate it from the standard hobby printer. It can print extremely well like all newer resin printers, but there is a mixer that is Integra in the vat that allows resins with bead and other filament to not settle. It also has a specific peel sheet that allows for a separation of around 30% less force, and the LCD HAS a ridged top to add to this. It means light supports. It's midsized like a hobby printer, but is a commercial grade. The resin available for it is literally unmatched, but it can use the basic stuff as well. I have several liters of their Tough 2000 (it matches ABS in every way) and one that allows a lot of flex. I'll be printing a few of my designs using the new printer and resin, but if any of you want files printed on it, I can give you quotes on pricing and shipping. I can also look at working out options with some of you, but now that I have a large printer, a DLP small printer, and now one that can print more exotic materials, I think I'm set on resin printers for a good while.

Here's an older project I totally forgot about for awhile, but finally finished. Some of the pictures below will show some of the changes, but the biggest test was making it be able to hold itself in fighter while being able to not do any parts swapping. I updated the handle to make it so that there's some clearance when being held, and so far, it all seems to work quite well. I also redid the handle, having to make it about 3.5mm longer, and I created a slot so that it doesn't just hold by a pin, but has some anchor into the body. The handle and the way it is designed creates a bit of a fragile part, but when lightly sanded, it does the job it's intended. I just printed this in black, and will post pics of that soon, but here's the final design. It'll fit with the Yamato VF-11 series, and while I haven't tested the collapsible handle on other valks, if it fits for them, I'd be very happy to see that. If anyone is interested in it, it'll be on cults3D for download, and if you want a printed version, just send me a message.

Thanks for the comments. I'll be honest... I was pissed when this happened and wanted to just scrap it and give up on it. Not that it's super difficult, but it's more the frustration of putting in a lot of time to have it go belly up. Nevertheless, I think it's you guys that keep me inspired to redo the eff-ups and try to improve it. I did start this again, and so far, it's a bit easier this time around. I also found a better way to engineer a piece that I did before. At least there's that.

It's a happy surprise. Not as happy as I first was when the renewal versions came out, but still a happy surprise. I guess now with the couple sets of armor packs I have, I can get rid of one of them and maybe customize the other.

Sorry for the delay in this, but this isn't the news I was hoping to share. In designing this, there was a part that had an issue that was unclearable. As I tried rolling it back to fix it, it lead to there being a roll back of everything to the very beginning. At this point, I had no choice but to scrap the work done on this. I will need to start from scratch. It's not the worst thing, as there were issues I wanted to correct, but it was a lot of work. At least on the bright side, I have a better know how of some of the complex parts, and being that I now have a plan of attack on this that will give me a better layout, I should be able to make this better, and incorporate some other features I wasn't planning with the first version. I guess the things that suck can be a point to fix things, as normally should be the case. As I am getting the new 3D printer that can print production and working type materials, I plan to incorporate these into the tests as I move forward, so I can test not only fitting, but materials under certain stresses that the figure will have. I have 3 materials that can basically make this a workable toy, and dyes for the resin that can give them the color it needs to hopefully require little to no paint for this.

No worries. It's also just my perspective, so I'm sure there's other sides I may not have considered, or at least have a different level of priority with in my assessments.

Working with 3D printers is nowhere near the same amount of time as recasting, and is much, much easier and quicker to use. Failed prints happen seldom once the printer resin settings are dialed in. Even then, one can pop up from time to time, but in general, they don't happen that often. Even then, depending on the cost of the resin used, and I've used about 20 various types, they often range from $20-$250. The only issue with most resin, even the ones that are supposedly ABS Like, is that most only have some sort of property like it, but it isn't and doesn't have other properties of it. These shouldn't be too expensive, but at the same time, it's really up to the seller to determine what they think it's worth. I would say that at the $200-$250 range, I have no point in buying a sort of armor pack that is about twice the amount of the toy itself. As a 3D printed part, you also have an ongoing supply, so you'll need to set the price to help create the demand (unless they decide to only print 20 or so). But that'd be odd. Unless they decide to do that, then sell the file to those that want to print it. Lots of options in that equation. Whatever they decide, I wish them all the best for it. It's a very cool project and one I'm potentially interested in.

Now that'd be a decent size project. I always steered away from the 1/48 Yamatos for odd reasons, but I wonder how many would be interested in that since the DX is about the same size, and kinda fits that role. BTW, @505thAirborne, is that Eunha in your avatar pic? If so, she is, IMO, one of the top 5 most beautiful women in the world. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

I just invested about $5K into the Formlabs 4 resin printer with their specialty resins that do well for parts that need to be engineered for moving. After testing several parts, they have a material that is true ABS in terms of material properties down the line, as well as some that are meant for extreme pliability and screws. If you want to try a crack at printing it with several types of materials, I can help out. That said, I'd still be in for buying one. I think the range of $150 seems about right for this, as it isn't a process requiring the time and labor involved as recasting would. Printing should keep cost down (unless you're using a printer that uses $150/Liter resin like this one does. Then I can see $150-$200. As an edit... I'm not going to quote for a fully ready to go kit. That is the time spent for the maker, and their time and what it's worth is up to them. I'd say $200 in that range is probably too low. I know that goes against the grain here, but as this is just my opinion, unless you don't mind being stuck preparing these for extended periods of time, unless the money is really good, I would stay away from that range, especially if it's only a $50 difference.

I'd most likely get a set. I'm not a big HMr collector, so I'd probably only get one, but as with anything, it really depends on the price. As @Sanity is Optional has already said, I too, am a little worried about the materials. 3D printed material, even when it claims to be ABS like, doesn't hold up to that. There are materials that have the same properties, but those are quite pricey. As it is 3D printed, as long as that brings down the price, I'd still like to decorate my only HMr. Now, if you are considering a 1/60 kit, that I definitely can get behind.

That's cool and all, but honestly, if he has a panel, that'd be the only thing I'd be interested in seeing there. Aside from that, maybe getting an autograph would be cool on a poster, but meh. I already have a couple.

I'd have to watch the older version that I have to do some comparisons, but I believe I found a couple parts that may be in question. In seeing this new release now twice, there seems to be a couple parts I don't remember from the original. I know the part where they inserted Sheryl Nome's earrings into the stand that Mao is in front of with her parents was inserted way later on, that is in this one, but I gotta confirm if there is, in fact, scenes that may have been cut from the original.

Oh, I don't see my anticipation going away for this release. I have a feeling they didn't show it at WF due to the updated version of this, and in looking at the new pictures, this looks like it's one of the more final designs (not final, but closer). It does look like the gun may not be closed inside and/or locked in. I don't know if it has a retracting handle, but that could also be a reason, not wanting to break these parts. Also could be the same thing for the rear wheels, but from this image, it does look like they should be about 3+mm longer. The front gear doesn't look extended right, but maybe for the same reasons as the gun.

I was disappointed with the no show at Wonderfest 24, but hopefully it was due to getting to this point.

You may want to post this in the workshop.

The videos are actually quite inspiring. It did remind me of what I really want (just a really tough, sturdy version). I did start working on the space for the leg inserts. While I will be using something almost the exact same for how the legs slide, I'm going to possible use a guide system that may be totally independent of the frame itself, something that one can put the legs into the slider (which will have tension points), and make that a unit in and of itself that then is attached to the body. That will allow better detailing to be done on the exterior of that, and allow the builder to create the right tension. It may also allow, once I spend time, to look at materials that will allow better tension without as much wear and tear. Project isn't dead at all. And thank you for sharing those. I do have those kits. I should actually build them at some point like this guy did. Also, thanks to the rest of you. It's all of you that keep me inspired and makes me want to get back into what I'm doing with this. I'll probably need someone to sculpt out a really good Kei and Olson for those options, as well as decals when that time comes.

I wanted to leave it a bit vague. I'm sure people who saw this were thinking valkyrie related and whatnot, so I didn't want to ruin the surprise. The kit is literally only 4 parts, so it's a very straight forward kit.

Wow, I'm really impressed with the detail in these. Are these going to be static models, or will you be making them to have articulation, like rolling wheels, folding wings, and maybe the ability to make it with landing gears up or down?

So, while I was going through aisle by aisle at Wonderfestival Japan last month, I happened to stumble upon one of these. I thought they were sold out, or was told they were, but I managed to score a 1/1 scale swan mic that Basara and Mylene use in the series

Ugh, I should've been clearer in my editing. It's ordered from someone that gets them. It's preordered and will be enroute, LOL. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd take some time to picture all the books, mooks, and so on, but at the same time, since 99% of them are probably already documented online, I don't see a reason to. Nevertheless, it's cool to look inside of many of these from time to time. I should probably do the same with all 100+ posters I have, but same dilema.

I have a few of these books, but may be looking at getting some more of them. I like that they have the crossover work showing really detailed images. I have the Patlabor crossover enroute now, but here's the ones I have...

I hope you don't think that I was expecting them to be a certain way. They look great. With small scale prints and figures, they almost can't look like they're anime accurate. Have you seen Arcadia's Macross 7 characters? They have the shape of the figures, but not too accurate face wise. In any case, I know you've been working on the other things. It's all looking great. Can't wait to see what you do next with these and your future projects.

The bike design looks really good. All the figures look pretty good, too. I like the riding/stationery options. As I do like seeing the Guld figure, Isamu's pilot face looks a little off. It might be the eyes. However, as I print these in small scale, I don't go for super accurate figures, as the painting process is impossible to get them anime accurate. For that, these are great. Awesome work.