Lolicon

Only 3 more? Not going to build anything outside of the SMS Skull Squadron?

I can tell what decals were added! When it comes to nightmarish decals on the Frontier models, the VF-27 takes the cake, in annoyance factor and sheer quantity. I've built two of them, and because of that I've had to take a break from any modeling... for the next several months. The worst decals were the canopy. I've found that Mr. Mark Softer works fairly well on Bandai's decals, so long as you use a brush to spread out the liquid and keep it from beading up until it's absorbed by the decal. If you let it bead up it'll often leave an ugly pock mark on the decal (though usually not noticeable unless you're looking really closely). Though I trimmed the excess film on the majority of the 27's decals, I found that the Mark Softer will actually melt the carrier film itself but leave the pigment/markings intact, which is good for large solid decals, but death for all the tiny little white markings that are found all over. Since I'm softly brushing to prevent beads, I end up sloughing off the carrier film. I use as little Mark Softer as possible, but it still beads up and I don't dare try to soak it up for fear of touching and messing up the decal. It really does absorb so slowly on Bandai's decals. There were also a couple of instances where in order to get a decal to fit into a recess, I would use the tip of my knife to put in a tiny slash or puncture; this would allow me to press down and squeeze out any liquid more easily. The puncture would be invisible. I generally don't use any water at all except the water that adheres to the decal when I pull it out of the water dish. I just put a small amount of Mark Setter where the decal will go, and then just lay the decal over it and adjust as needed. If the decal is being particularly troublesome, then I may have to add a drop or two to continue adjustments (since Mark Setter actually does what it says!). Something about the Mark Setter just pulls the decal into place better for me. It's a slip and slide game when I use water. Not particularly professional, but it's worked for me so far.

Really? Damn I wish I could get mine so bright and even.

Tinting clear parts myself was my favorite thing about working on the VF-25. I assume it was left untinted so people could go wild with their customs.

Hmmm I've been wondering about these Yamato, err, model kits. So is it just an unassembled, unpainted VF-1 with decals, etc.? Is it molded in the same kind of plastic as the completed toys, or is it made out of the same kind of plastic like other plamo kits? (I'm not even sure if they're any different or just thicker; but the toys certainly feel heavier and more sturdy!) I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this. For me personally, I wouldn't build a VF-1 that's available as a completed toy (being able to paint and fill in seams and such is not enough incentive for the time and effort involved). But a custom... maybe I can finally put those Deculture Campaign decals to use. Hmmm are you going to want to transform it after completion? Even though it'll be sturdy as a completed version, I'm thinking that even the sturdiest paint job is going to be scratched up after a couple of transformations. And the decals!

That's looking fantastic. On the red parts, did you just paint it straight on or did you need to use a silver or other undercoat? @Maxtype Hey if you can handle a MG Gundam kit, you can handle a Frontier kit. They're about the same in terms of complexity. The real trick is lining everything up in fighter mode without totally scratching up the paint and decals... the VF-27 fighter mode nearly broke me...

Let's see some progress pics! I want to see your completed work before I start on my 25G. Here, I'll post all the progress I've made on mine since February.

I wish Bandai would've released fixed mode fighter and battroid kits of their Frontier line. Cheaper to produce and easier to build. What could be better? No one who wants to preserve their work is really going to transform them.

It's because Bandai hates you. Unless you plan on painting it, it's better to go with the DX anyway, because the model looks crappy if stuck together "right out of the box". I would've picked up the DX if it didn't have such a weak paint app. Now I'm busy working on a second model so I can keep one in fighter mode.

Yeah that's the kicker. The 27 uses all new parts for the crotch/hip bar. The nose does look pretty long in the battroid pics, though I like it in fighter mode. The big air intake covers and upper legs are what mar the fighter looks. In fighter profile, it's a fat bulge in an otherwise sleek profile. Bandai probably could've tooled it a bit more to get the proportions better... but that costs money! If there's a task that must be done, Don't turn your tail and run, Don't pout, don't sob, Just do a half-assed job! If... you... cut every corner It is really not so bad, Everybody does it, Even mom and dad. If nobody sees it, Then nobody gets mad, It's the American Bandai way! If... you... cut every corner, You'll have more time for play pay, It's the American Bandai waaaaay!

VF-27 has a virtually identical transformation to the VF-25, so Bandai recycled quite a few parts from the 25 design, including the lower hip placement, which looks pretty low. The air intake covers are problematic too (the actual air intakes remain on the leg; why would anyone separate the air intakes from the engines?) because they look kinda elongated on the model, but shortening them would also mean having to make the upper legs thinner, and shrink or squash the air intake fans to accomodate it. I'm unsure how else one could get around it. I haven't bothered doing a freeze frame comparison to see just how big they're supposed to be in the anime.

Yamato releases a toy with manufacturing flaws? They suck! I'll never buy a Yamato again! Bandai releases a toy with manufacturing flaws? It's perfect! Yamato could learn a thing or two from them! Damn shame about the weak paint app and chipping problems on what is otherwise a great looking toy. It still boggles me that that's an issue in this day and age. The 27's price approaches the high end Yamato items, and though I don't have exact production figures, I can't really see the price per unit skyrocketing past Yamato's stuff if they switched to a flat finish plastic instead and got rid of the mold release or whatever that residue is.

I'm sure it does cost more. I meant does it cost so much more that it's prohibitively expensive? I don't know what the costs of these molds are. Would adding the texture raise the cost per unit more than 1000 yen? 2000 yen? And so on.

Why doesn't Bandai just use flat/matte plastic like Yamato? I can't imagine it costing that much more, and would probably solve most paint chipping issues.

Doh! Oh well no biggie waiting for restock.

So I just had a most unpleasant dream. I ordered the DX 27 from HLJ (and I hardly buy anything from HLJ, so we know this has got to be a dream) and naturally, since I have a job, I wasn't home to sign for the EMS slip. So I go to pick it up at the post office the next morning. When I get the package, I find that it's already opened, all the packing material is gone, and the 27 has been taken out of its box.... in pieces, with large sections of paint scraped off every part. It looked like it had tied to the bumper of a pickup truck and dragged for a few miles before being mauled by a tiger. I asked the postal employee wtf happened to it, and she just shrugs and walks off. That wasn't the worst part of the dream. The worst part, the part that disturbed me so much that I woke up, was the thought that I'd have to contact HLJ customer service for help. So anyway, I think I'll order from Amiami...

Damn that's nice. Paint and printing seem pretty solid/not prone to chipping?

Wasn't there a VF-27 fold booster protoype/mockup shown way back in antiquity? I vaguely remember people complaining about the pink color.

Not sure why you keep bringing the model kit up, seeing as I have not once compared the DX 27 to it, favorably or not. The model kit isn't perfect either, as it uses a few cheats for its transformation. All I have done is remarked that the DX 27's legs (or rather hips) are mounted as high as the 25, and the thighs are higher than the anime, both of which are true. If that's too much for you to comprehend, then that's your problem, not mine. All the long-winded rants in the world will not change that. I haven't bothered making any remarks as to whether this is good or bad, as the fighter mode is what I like best about this DX. Some people get too uptight when people don't agree with them and simply will not tolerate dissent.

Thanks Graham! VF-27 is looking better and better. If the positive reviews continue, I might just cave and pick one up. My first DX... besides the Quarter.

You're the one assigning value judgments, not me. I'm simply making observations pending further reviews by others. Since you've now admitted that the legs are high, saying it's only "a little high" doesn't really contradict what I said, does it? And the size of the crotch and the height of the legs are quite noticeable to those of us who actually notice details. So now you're resorting to calling anyone with an eye for detail "anal retentive"? Nice. What's next? Anyone who doesn't like Bandai's DX toy line is a communist? Posting a CG pic that looks different from the DX and presenting it as irrefutable proof that the DX is somehow more anime accurate than other incarnations of the VF-27 is wishful thinking at best, an outright lie at worst.

Yay more pics. What does "Better than the anime setup" mean?

The DX still sits noticeably higher than that CG pic and what's seen in the anime. Not to mention the gigantic crotch. If it sits higher then the 25, then it's not the same. Yet you say it's supposed to be the same. Make up your mind.

The tailfins are supposed to slant inwards on the VF-27. The leg placement looks to be the same as the VF-25. It just doesn't look as bad because the air intake covers separate from the actual air intakes themselves, which I see are not molded into the top of the leg at all.

On the fence if I should get one or not. Waiting on more reviews, especially regarding durability, QC issues, paint app (does the paint chip if you look at it the wrong way?), etc. Being told it's just like the VF-25 is pretty damning.