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sqidd

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Posts posted by sqidd

  1. 10 hours ago, seti88 said:

    Every challenge presents opportunities at the same time.

    In this case the rich will get richer.....and the poors will get poorer. 

    A few unicorn poors will figure out how to "game" the new reality. But it will be only a very small few.

  2. 12 hours ago, seti88 said:

    For macross specifically, i dont remember bandai pushing any releases back. Was there any bandai macross release delayed b4?

    It's unprecedented times. The world supply chain is shattered and all of the secondary effects from that is playing havoc with manufacturing.

    And it's going to get a lot worse before it gets better.

    And things are going to get a lot more expensive.

    Welcome to the new normal.

  3. 12 hours ago, Kamina337 said:

    I would definitely start there. If you get your technique down it’s probably all you’ll need. And the colors are yellow and bubblegum red But of course it might even be more impressive if you decide to employ others. I often wondered if blue would have been worthwhile somewhere. But overall the bubblegum red and the yellow. Do not dilute it. It’s going to seem very thick. And like I said I was having the best luck using toothpick points as applicators. Some areas it was as simple as lightly playing a dot down with a toothpick and leaving it there to dry. Other areas I kind of had to set it down and then tug at it to drag it across the areas that require slightly larger spots. Think of it as a paint that feels very thick and grainy. It is also why when you look at pictures of the premium up close it is not like a flat evenly applied paint application. But rather kind of three-dimensional spots dotted on. But it was one of the clues that I had the right sort of paint. Here’s a picture of the actual premium finish buildings compared to a dot on top of the paint cap. You can see the texture.  Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for.Also I recommend having a black light nearby. It will help you to see where you may have spilled some so you can clean it up from areas it is not supposed to be. Think of a barely visible paint smear that lights up like a sports field under black light. Whatever you use don’t settle for any other cheap glow in the dark acrylic paints. This is definitely the product you’re looking for. Panel lining with a fine point Gundam marker and a coating of gundam topcoat is really all that’s left to set the premium finish apart.

    0DE7BA31-33DC-4D92-B2E1-F339571043C8.jpeg

    CE3B67BA-356B-4C55-A2F5-8B7CA4822EAE.jpeg

    7BF8B5FA-27F8-431A-9F5F-4DE04D133CA0.jpeg

    Thank you sir. You are a scholar and a gentleman  :hi:

  4. 9 hours ago, Kamina337 said:

    So I don’t think I had an actual thread. I think I posted some pictures in this thread and was looking in the forums for whatever pictures and advice I could use to try to pull it off. I actually have a few more details I need to add as when the pandemic came I found myself focused on other things. When I’m done I will use a topcoat matte or semi gloss finish. However one thing I will probably leave different from the premium as I will mask the clear parts. I think I lost the files but at one point actually found pictures of the original room they were doing the premium finish details in. Literally all of it is done by hand. This is why when you go back through the thread and look at some of the painted features of the buildings inside of the legs you will find the glow paint is by no means perfectly applied. It’s because it was free handed and the glow paint is very thick and you cannot dilute it and it still work properly. In many areas I found that the best application method was literally dipping a toothpick in the paint and dropping dots of the paint where I needed it. And then gently taking the toothpick and dragging it out to cover the larger areas that weren’t just supposed to be beads. The only thing I’m not 100% certain on is whether or not they did some sort of topcoat very lightly to act as a primer for the glow paint. I only say that because I’ve noticed that areas like the tips of the guns were easy to chip the paint off . For now I have been doing mine without any sort of topcoat to use as a primer. I will topcoat lightly afterwards and if I find protruding areas like the gun tips are still easy to knock the paint off, I will topcoat to prime before finishing over with the topcoat  in those specific areas.

     

    I believe anymoon Is where I found most of my great reference photos to see the detailing up close on the premium finish version so I could copy details. and advantage you have with the assembly kit is that you could much more easily tackle areas like the buildings. But ask around here and look around. I know there are some examples of extremely detailed work on the cities. I think I’ve seen at least one case where someone individually painted each building and made their own custom backdrop to go behind them. Meanwhile Arcadia came with a background sticker that isn’t actually able to fit unless you could break the ship down. And they did not make this thing to be able to come apart without possibly breaking something on the Arcadia. Also with this I am posting a picture of one of the more detailed interiors I came across on my hunt that someone had made.
    http://anymoon.com/blog/?p=4389

    62413F95-0676-4F0A-AC5E-6C13F12AC3B6.jpeg

    I appreciate the reply's and advice.

    I was just looking at their site. Did you use the yellow and hot pink? Am I assuming correctly that the 2.3ml vial was enough of each color?

    Thanks again:good:

  5. 18 hours ago, Angesdad said:

    They must have flooded the market with surplus because the GBP set was at 14k yen for quite some time. Man, 10k is tempting for sure.

    I don't think Bandai produces more than they have orders for. Or at least not by many. Starting with the Roy release it seems like the scalpers are still buying as many as they can.......but the secondary market is just not there like it used to be pre COVID. And now inflation. The Roy stayed at about $300 shipped on feeBay for almost a year after release. That is darn near cost to the scalper. They aren't making any money at that price point after shipping and fees (good). Only after the scalpers catch up and realize the market has changed will secondary markets return to normal. Not that normal was good. I prefer the new lack of/slow price increase after release.

  6. 1 hour ago, seti88 said:

    Normally the shops would have it on the 2-3rd week of the release month, and if we buffer, lets say 1 and a half weeks, for packing and distribution leadtime?

    Shouldn't the final mirage releases be available to marketing now? Not to mention updating the boxart if her colors are the issue, that would need printing time...

    Let's hope it's held up while they fix the AX problems.

  7. 14 hours ago, TangledThorns said:

    Reminds me of FOX's Wayward Pines with Matt Dillon.

    I tried getting into Wayward Pines a few times. Like really tied. It didn't hook me. Too bad, I heard good things.

    Aside from being trapped in the town From is nothing like Wayward Pines as far as I can tell. If I was going to compare it to something I would say it has more of a soft Lost feel (before it jumped the shark). Then add actual monsters and gore.:D

  8. 1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

    I believe I’ve seen someone mix phosphorescent powder into normal paint before. There are also phosphorescent art paints.

    Check the workshop forum, I recall someone doing a custom PF SDF-1 with glow paint there.

    I forgot about the workshop. Thanks for the heads up.:good:

  9. I just unpacked the Assembly Kit. I see it has glow in the dark stickers so it looks like the PF. But the PF looks like it has glow in the dark paint. I can't imagine the stickers will come off as well as the PF does???? Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe use glow in the dark paint instead?

    Thanks

  10. 8 hours ago, Shawn said:

    Due to a 2nd account having a password re-use HACK, all new posts in this forum will be moderated.
    Sorry-we simply have to stop this now.
    Shawn

    I've seen really good success with requiring that the picture(s) of the item have a piece of paper with the persons screen name and date in the shot. Unless the scammer actually has the item It's impossible to do. It's not 100% secure, but it's a long way to ward it.

  11. 48 minutes ago, electric indigo said:

    DMZ is one of my favorite comic series, but the approach from the trailer didn't look very promising.

    The premise looked great. 

    Add a nice heaping layer of "The Message".....and it's crap. Hollyweird does this thing where undeniable basic human nature is ignored. In this case you have a high stress high danger situation that is effectively lawless and everyone from every race, religion, social ideology, etc is hanging out together. That just doesn't happen in real life. For better or worse people sort themselves. And in a lot of cases are antagonistic to each other. One, it's just plain unrealistic and makes it all but impossible to suspend reality and enjoy the show. Two, I'm sick to my back teeth of this heavy handed messaging.

    Aliens showing up would be more realistic than the social interactions they portray on the show.

  12. 16 hours ago, Special Sauce said:

    I've paid people using my CC and F&F quite a bit in the past and have never had any issues.  For what its worth.  Anyone else I know that has done the same have also not had an issue.  But if people don't feel comfortable then they obviously shouldn't do it.

    I was referring to using F&F and counting on being able to charge it back if you funded it with your CC.

    11 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

    I wouldn't use F&F to begin with; I would just add whatever percent to the purchase. Other than that, I can't think of anything that wouldn't require a lot more work and essentially turn this into MacrossBay.

    On that note: I just updated and tripled the length and complexity of my password.

    I almost always pay the fees when buying. It's a very, very rare situation where I won't. It has to be someone I know REALLY well and the value of the item is not over let's say $300.

    At the end of the day I look at it like this. Only send something F&F if you're willing to lose that money.

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