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I agree it's related to the paint and prints. Best example also is the YF-21.

Lucky guy.

Those are SWEET! Nice displays.

I'm hoping for that too. Looking forward for another sets of display stand connectors as well... without the stand for sure. Hahaha! And yes, I'm being sarcastic again for not including the stands. I know they've included it with the Arcadia VF-1S releases. But WHO really wants those BIG stand?

Based on the contour of the plastic, I might say it's for VF-1's only. 'So generous of them to sell a stand that only works for VF-1's'. And yes, I am being sarcastic towards their display stands. I don't know why they can't reissue those Yamato stands. Even the Mighty Block ones. They keep on releasing Valks after Valks or New Valks even along with its proper stand connectors and thinking that the collectors has bunch of unused old display stands to begin with. I assumed sometimes that they just market their products to their existing customers instead of adding to their list the new customers/collectors who just recently got exposed to their 'Perfect Transforming' toys, who to begin with doesn't even have their old 'cool-looking' stands. (e.g. Arcadia YF-19) I mean, c'mon Arcadia, how much would you like to add more to the MSRP price just to include those Mighty Block display stands for your upcoming or even reissues Valk releases?

Cool! Are you planning on posing them like their trying to cross each other while flying? Can't find a proper snapshot but this is where their fighting on EP4. Anyways, great display.

I don't have one but there's this site called MECH9 and he posted there his work-in-progress on his VF-1A Milia along with a english translated instructions. Here's the links: http://www.mech9.com/blog/2012/07/yamato-160-vf-1-no-paint-kit-w-bonus-parts-construction-manual/ http://www.mech9.com/blog/2012/08/160-vf-1a-miria-fallyna-jenius-version-build-part-i/ http://www.mech9.com/blog/2012/08/160-vf-1a-miria-fallyna-jenius-version-unofficial/ I'm assuming it all comes with the pins for its proper components. But if you're asking about the shoulder problem, I assumed it's a possibility. Sometimes, inserting the pin on the pegs can cause an early cracks while building it. So be sure to order some replacement shoulder parts from Shapeways for back-up since the one available at Shapeways is a little thicker than the one from the Yamato kit. Here's the link from Shapeways: http://www.shapeways.com/model/463232/kanzen-henkei-1-60-scale-fighter-variable-hinge.html?modelId=463232&materialId=6 Yup, plastic cement works for this too. But be careful though, just in case you need to fix something in the future, it might be a problem to open it up again if everything was applied with cement. Be sure to study the kit first for future problems. Decals I believe is waterslide. Not guarantee if it's durable or not since this is a transforming toy. Even if it's applied with topcoat there will always a possiblity of scratching and paint chipping. Hope that helps.

Does he still have extra stock? Great find.

I know I posted awhile back for my wish from Arcadia. And the first would be a reissue of VF-4G in Flashback 2012 colors. Or a renewal of YF-21... and this is the proportion I WANT. I know it's doable so better do it, Mr.K/Arcadia-san - YF-21 main body from 1/60 - YF-21 enlarged proportioned legs from GN-u Dou Be sure that the updated rotating thigh is brittle/crack/explosion-free. I'm not a Twitter user so if ever there's members here who can tweet this edited photo to Mr.K or Arcadia, you're free to do so.

Nice! So this is a ver 1 add-on parts on the renewal VF-25F? Cool!

Great purchases, everyone! It's the big box at the back. U.S. calls it VOLTRON Vehicle Force. http://news.toyark.com/2013/04/18/masterpiece-vehicle-voltron-fully-painted-sample-images-85404

Ok. Thanks Old Man. But I still want somehow that straight shoulder bits thing look but don't want my valk's torso wobbly. Hehehe.

I'm doing the same thing. So it makes sense that we can't do the level-straight shoulder bits without making the torso part a little wobbly, correct? Really? Guess, I'm doing something wrong with that area since mine is kinda wobbly when the shoulder bits is leveled straight. Hehehe.

From what I remember, I can't somehow lift up the back wing part when the chest part is closed to the nosecone and the shoulder bits is bend more towards the back. And thinking that the shoulder bits on your photo is leveled straight, you can easily lift up the back wing part, correct? And the torso is somehow wobbly/shaking esp the cockpit block.

You're welcome Sandman. It's just that I see a lot of photos over the forums and some review site and most of them shows the shoulder bits part is kinda leveled straight. But whenever I try to follow the manual, photos shows it's bended more towards the back. Not sure if it's correct or not but somehow some online shops promo pics shows the level straight shoulder bits too. I know there's no correct answer to this but just want to know like how to keep the shoulder bits leveled straight yet somehow keep the torso part sturdy and not wobbly. Because I don't get that sturdy-feeling whenever I use the straight shoulder bits. So do you get that wobbly/not-so-sturdy feeling on the back part and torso since your shoulder bits is leveled straight?

Thanks KH355hamdi! I also checked anymoon for comparison. Ok, from what I've observed, we're doing the same thing with the chest area and the crotch areas. It's touching the nosecone underneath, whereas over at anymoon's photo you'll notice that his chest part has somehow has gap from the nosecone. Also, I was about to ask you about the shoulder bits and good thing I refreshed the page and saw the added VF-25F photo. Your photo shows that the shoulder bits is leveled straight, whereas anymoon's is bent more downward towards the back. And that's what I'm doing to make the torso lock somehow and sturdy. My question next is since your shoulder bits is leveled, do you get that wobbly/shaky torso when you hold your 25's? And the back wing part is not lock somehow? Thanks!

Thanks for the insight, Scyla. That's what I always do, the chest is pointing down and touching the nosecone. As for the shoulder bits, I also fold it down as much as I can so that everything is in lock in place. But somehow when I see members posting their 25's, I always wonder are their units much tighter than mine so they can just leave the shoulder bits resting straight and the chest plate have slight gap from the nosecone. That's why I always think if I'm missing something with the transformation so that I can also leave the shoulder bits somehow straight. But whenever I do that, the core block in the middle tends to move a lot. So I will just go back and bent down more the shoulder bits so that the core block will be lock in place. I'll try to check again tonight and see if I can just leave the shoulder bits straight than being bent down more towards the back. Again, thanks Scyla.

Cool helmet!

The 'old school' in me wants to choose Hikaru's 1S with Strike Packs. It's my favorite valk of all time. But that was before I saw the YF-19 back in the 90's. If I could wish for both of them at the same time doing that 1 Valkyrie wish, I'll DO it. And I mean EACH. Don't want the Genie to give me a mash-up one. Hahaha!

No problem. You're welcome. Just trying to figuring out too since besides the support part I'm also concern on the durability of the swiveling waist part so I'm curious on dissecting the video.

Ok, I've seen a lot of VF-25's in Battroid mode here over the boards and I do have questions on how you guys transform yours. Here's what I've noticed so far: 1. Bandai DX boxes shows the shoulder part (where you replace and attached the missle pods for both Super and Armored Packs) is kinda leveled nicely. 2. Intruction manual shows that part is kinda pointy downwards toward the back of the Battroid. 3. Some photos shows the chest cover barely touches the nosecone. Whereas some photos shows that the two parts touching each other. 4. Some pose their Battroid mode with the crotch area just straight (like the Ver1 look), others pose it with potruding. Sometimes after seeing those photos I'm not so sure what's the correct form. I know it's based on your preferences. But when I played with my 25F and transform it multiple times, I find that doing the shoulder part leveled straight, the chest cover have a big gap from the nosecone, and the head part and chest area part is kinda wobbly. Whereas when I tried to bend the shoulder part more downward towards the back of the Battroid, it mades the figure more solid and somehow more locked in place. The wing backpack is not that loose and the chest cover is secured very well on the nosecone. My question would be is for members who displayed their Battroids with the shoulder part leveled straight, does your valks have like a wobbly upper part when holding it? And for those who bent the shoulders a little downward towards the back, do you get the more solid-locked-torso feeling? Anyways, just trying to find out if I'm transforming my Messiah valk correctly. Thanks.

I remember having this one back in '84.

Nice concept. Kinda dig the Strike Pack now to the VF-1D. Would look more perfect if you added a little touch of light grey here and there. Any photos in Gerwalk and Fighter modes?

Cool pic, KH355hamdi! Masalam.

Were there images attached to it? Didn't see any. Thanks.