Kurt

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Hey everyone. I just finished my next commission job. The customer wanted a custom 1/48 Low Vis. I used three shades of gray on this valk. I used a light gray for the underside and anything that could be seen from a below view. For the top side I used a medium to dark gray. Then I accented the tail fins with a blue gray, like Yamato did with theirs. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

David, If you have I large gap to fill I would start by using super glue. Use a gap filling or gel super glue to fill in most of the area. Sand that down and then use your Mr. Surfacer for the finish work. If it is a real large gap, cut pieces of styrene to fill it up and the use the glue / surfacer.

David, You can certainly apply the 1000 with a brush. Depending on how much of a gap you have will determine how many times you need to apply it. For the most part I tend to use the 500 for filling gaps. In areas where you want to be careful use a smaller brush or a toothpick. I use thinned 1000 to prime all of my custom valks. It gives the paint a nice surface to grip. I use lacquer thinner to clean the brushes. It smells pretty bad (or good depending on my mood ) but it is the only thing that I know of that will clean it off. Don't waste your money on the Mr. Thinner just to clean brushes. Go to your local hardware store and buy a big can of lacquer thinner for under $10. I use the Mr. Thinner just for thinning the 1000 for airbrushing.

Thanks again everyone for your compliments. Coming soon............ A custom Low Vis VF-1S

Thank you everyone! I can do one of these in about two weeks, provided there are not many distractions.

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Hey everyone. I just finished my latest commissioned custom. Moon Act Minmay Guard. Decals are by Anasazi. Let me know what you think. Thanks!

vent

I also used the range fan idea. This setup has worked like a charm for about a year now. And I have sprayed just about ever type of paint in here with no explosions! I used a dryer vent to the nearby window. The good thing is that I can still open the window when I'm not painting. The only thing I need is a bit more light.

Lat 42-26-2 long -82-56-39 Harper Woods, MI

Ok, here is what I do. Keep in mind that I prime the entire valk when doing a custom, so I am not really concerned with getting all of the paint off. I just need to remove enough to not show the raised areas through the primer and paint, such as the wing stripes. However this technique works rather well. I first soak the parts in denatured alcohol for 10-15 minutes. Then I scrub them with very fine steel wool, the paint should come off fairly easy. For some reason some areas and colors are more stubburn than others. I would be not recommend using 200 grit sand paper, this will leave you with some pretty serious scratches to fill. The only other thing I recommend you stay away from is Polly Scale paint remover. I have heard this mentioned before and tried it. It works great for removing the paint, but makes the plastic very brittle.

Looks great! Just curious, what type of oil paint and thinner do you use for your washes? I also use oil washes, but have been wanting to experiment with different combinations. I use Windsor Newton paint and either Turpenoid or Eco-House (citrus) turpentine. For the most part these work ok, however the oil seems to separate in the thinner to quickly. Thanks.

Very nice Devin. I have just finished stripping the paint off a 1S in anticipation of your decals being delivered. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

The only color that I have found that Hasegawa recommends that I don't agree with is the VF-1J color. The say to use Gunze 311, which I think is too grey. If there is a color needed that Gunze doesn't have a direct match for, they give you mixing percentages. So far they seem pretty accurate.

I always use the Hasegawa painting instructions. They have just about every color covered. They are Gunze Sangyo paints which are very good. They are very similar to Tamiya. I have also used Gunze for the custom Enigmas that I have done.

Sorry, they are already packed up and ready to ship.