Jump to content

Kurt

Members
  • Posts

    735
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kurt

  1. Can someone please let me know if there is somewhere I can get a painting guide for the YF19 & 21. I realise that Hasegawa has them, but I don't want to buy the kits to get the guide. Thanks for the help.
  2. I wouldn't say that. Jung does some very nice work. Everyone has their own style, which appeals to different people.
  3. Do you mean the gun pod? I just mask off the red marker light and paint it just like the rest of the valk.
  4. 1-1/2 to 2 weeks.
  5. Not pastels. I used an oil wash for the panel lines and post shaded with Tamiya smoke.
  6. Per the Hasegawa painting guide, no colored arrows on the head.
  7. last one..
  8. more..
  9. more..
  10. more..
  11. Hello again everyone. I thought I would post the latest custom I just finished. Another Moon Act Minmay Guard Valk. This is pretty much just like the previous one I did. Let me know what you think. Enjoy!
  12. Only 3 in the world, why so many? I can customize a 1/48 for you and I promise that it will be one of a kind....
  13. Jeremy, I am available for commission jobs. There are a couple of links below to some Hasegawa Valks I have done. I have images of several more that I can post, or give me your e-mail and I will send them to you. PM me and we discuss exactly which kits you are interested in and how you would want them built. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=3209&hl= http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=331&hl=
  14. I have never had my hands on a 1/72 YF-21. So I don't know the difficulty in taking one apart for customizing. However I am willing to try.
  15. Oh, come on. You will never regret it. Thanks everyone for the wonderful compliments.....
  16. last one.
  17. more..
  18. more...
  19. more...
  20. more...
  21. Hey everyone. Here are images of yet one more Enigma that I have done. I know, your probably tired of them by now. This one is weathered a bit more than previous ones and I used a different ID number. Let me know what you think. And if you like what you see, it could be yours. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=5916911502 Shameless plug....
  22. pm sent.........
  23. Taking a 1/48 apart and re-assembling it is very easy.......
  24. Welcome to the boards. And I would be happy to answer your questions. 1. I personally use denatured alcohol. I know this has been a topic of discussion in the past and it seems there are different products being used. I have tried a product by Polly S that is specifically for paint stripping. I would stay away from it since it tends to make the plastic very brittle. I just soak the parts in alcohol for a 5-10 minutes and give it a scrub with very fine steel wool. Completely disassemble the valk and of course only treat the parts with paint on them. I just scrub enough to get most of the paint off. I don't worry about seam lines or hard reach areas. 2. I usually don't sand before I prime. I say usually because there may be a rough area or two that I want to smooth out. I do give every part a rub down in rubbing alcohol to remove any greasy finger prints or mold agents. For primer I like to use Mr Surfacer 1000 from Gunze Sangyo. There are cheaper alternatives, but this has never failed me. Thin it and airbrush it on. 3. I tend to do a bit of both. After the pre-shading and when I am applying the main color I will "fill in" the area first and lightly spray the entire part to blend everyhting in and get the right look. Although doing this sometimes covers up the pre-shading too much and then I will do a bit of post shading to bring it back. I hope that answers your questions, let me know if there is anything else you would like advice on.
  25. Kurt

    Custom 1/48 TV VF-1J

    No reason, just habit I guess,
×
×
  • Create New...